dragon2

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Everything posted by dragon2

  1. dragon2
    Well alti2 just sent me the answer (probably, haven't tried this yet) to why I couldn't get a neptune in oC: "If you are not in the US, here is a trick to make the Neptune Control Panel write user settings, including changing to Centigrade while keeping altitude in feet: switch Regional & Language Options in Windows to US (American). " Owkee, that explains a lot ciel bleu, Saskia
  2. dragon2
    OK but you could still ask Kees, they've got email ya know If you do remove it, I do know to watch out for the needle, it's very easy to mess up. And I'd put in a sticker or something to personalize it
  3. dragon2
    But then everybody has to fix the 'nospam' and whatnot that's in the addresses now, first! ciel bleu, Saskia
  4. dragon2
    LOL the dollar sign on my keyboard turnes into this: ¤ Dollar sign from symbols: $ Euro's fine though: € Pound also? : £ Looks alright to me. ciel bleu, Saskia
  5. dragon2
    And you don't?! We don't have any rules here yet concerning handcams do we? Or rather, same rules as regular camera's? Or are there recommended practices for TI's like 'don't jump with a camara guy untill you have 25 tandem jumps' etc? Oh well, I think we have way too much rules here as-is.... ciel bleu, Saskia
  6. dragon2
    Why are you asking here? Just ask Kees... ciel bleu, Saskia
  7. dragon2
    Yes. However if you have an alti-2 field representative near you they may be able to change that, so the temp is oC but the alti is still in ft and the speed in mph. I am a fieldrep however and I never did get the program to do that for me, but I've seen it done and some of the neptunes we have here in The Netherlands have gotten that mod straight from alti-2. ciel bleu, Saskia
  8. dragon2
    The best place for recording jumps is on your ankle (for birdman jumps and speed jumps at least) or on your hips (your pocket will do). This is so the chart on jumptrack is much smoother and more accurate. You can always tell if a neptune or pro-track was in the helmet or not, from looking at the spikes in the chart. If you don't look at the charts anyway and are just using it as a log book then the location doesn't really matter. Maybe put it in a pouch on your chest strap or in a pocket of your jumpsuit or get the ankle elastic thingie from L&B or make your own ankle strap with the mount and some velcro. Not sure if the zip ties would hurt but I wouldn't put it on the mainlift webbing myself. ciel bleu, Saskia
  9. dragon2
    I copied a tape once by connecting the 3 audio & video connectors on the vhs recorder to the analogue video connector on my sony camera. Was pretty easy but your vhs has to have these 3 connectors. Maybe it also works using the scart but haven't tried that. ciel bleu, Saskia
  10. dragon2
    I think I did 75 or more (maybe a hundred?) of my 138 WS jumps so far in a row. No, not addicted at all! Right now I don't have a choice; our Grand Caravan is getting overhauled so we have a C206 at the mo that only goes to 5k unless there are tandems.... There was one guy that did a couple WS jumps form 5k but... Nah... ciel bleu, Saskia
  11. dragon2
    I stick to this rule: at 1000ft tops, preferably by 2000ft, I know which exact field I'm going to land in. In or out. I've only broken this rule a couple times because I couldn't figure out which field another girl I landed out with would choose (turned out she was doing windchecks because she had no clue which direction the airport was, nevermind where the wind came from), and one or 2 times I just crabbed in the direction of the airfield to see how far I would get, us having a lot of fields to choose from. The "don't cross the runway below 2000ft rule" is one that causes a lot of the off-DZ landings here, but then you know it fairly early and there is plenty of room for landing out. ciel bleu, Saskia
  12. dragon2
    Ask Kees, I think he once landed a Lightning with a broken A-line ciel bleu, Saskia
  13. dragon2
    The wingload best for skillcamps I suppose would be a wingload that everybody else is flying but also one that you can handle (for instance our rotation team jumps at close to 1:2.0, uhuh so when I filmed them I only went to 1.3 and stuck to the burble like hell). Generally 1.3-1.4 I think, or what everybody else is flying.... We sometimes mix lightnings and triathlons, rotation trim and sequential trim, and slightly different wingloads too... Usually it kinda works too ciel bleu, Saskia
  14. dragon2
    And that's a good thing right Ooh ooh when are you guys gonna make me a nice fly-by target?!? ciel bleu, Saskia
  15. dragon2
    What's wrong with sashays? That's how our national team does is, and I don't think I've seen any top team recently doing otherwise (can be wrong though). ciel bleu, Saskia
  16. dragon2
    I've had quite a few cutaways thus far and have never seen my handles... I jump a rig sometimes where the handles (and the chest strap) are placed higher, here I can see them but the rig isn't comfortable this way. I've never had a mal where the harness was so distorted that the handles had moved around much, luckily. I know one guy who has a rig with the handles above the chest strap, that may be one solution for us busty women, but I'm guessing there may be a reason there aren't many setups like that? ciel bleu, Saskia
  17. dragon2
    There's no "best" camera IMO, since everybody wants something different, but if there was, the 300D isn't it... If you aren't already stuck to one system or the other, ie have expensive lenses, I'd get either a Canon D20 with a Canon wideangle fixed lens or a Nikon D70 (which you'd have to get modded for the remote) with a fixed Nikkor wideangle lens. Both are great camera's. If you can handle (much) more volume and weight on your head, and have the cash, the new Nikon D2X is great, and the Canon 1Ds mark II is also fantastic. ciel bleu, Saskia
  18. dragon2
    My cypres took less than 2 weeks for it's 4yr check, thought that was pretty quick
  19. dragon2
    The guy that made my helmet also makes boxes for video and still camera's, he's in Holland though: http://www.speedylee.nl ciel bleu, Saskia
  20. dragon2
    This was my helmet (Z1) only I found out after I had it painted that I really really didn't like fullface helmets The original helmet was grey with a pic of a baked egg with a large blowfly on it! Didn't like that so had it sprayed purple and Garfieldiefied it Also attached the pic of the original tattoo I had the girl who did the artwork copy. ciel bleu, Saskia
  21. dragon2
    Huh? No you won't. The camera will still do 3 pics/second max for 4 secs max (off the top of my head here) and then slow down. Unless you're talking bulb pics or something with very very long shutter speeds. ciel bleu, Saskia
  22. dragon2
    You set shutterspeed with Tv mode, the camera then comes up with the appropiate aperture. In Av mode the camera comes up with the appropiate shutter speed for the aperture you set. So if you want another shutter speed in Av you need to change the aperture. You need to come up with about shutter speed 1/400 (depending on who you ask and depending on light conditions) and the aperture will help determine which part of the picture will be in focus. For jumping you'd like (or I would anyway, but I haven't done too many jumps with a still camera yet) about f/11-f/16, with a shutter speed of 1/320 - 1/500. You can also go entirely manual of course but I wouldn't... Don't have a 300D manual anymore but stuff about the different modes and how they work should be in there. ciel bleu, Saskia
  23. dragon2
    I just helped you didn't I? Read the bit at the bottom: you need to use Av mode not Tv. It's nothing to do with the camera, only with the lens. Using the same settings as somebody using autofocus lenses (which most people use) just won't work. You need to figure out the correct settings for this lens, I know there are other people here that are jumping 16mm zenitars maybe they can chime in. But, this is basic stuff. If you want to know WHY something works, I suggest you read up on basic photography is all. You may have to change the settings during the day, and if you know what you're doing it'll save you a lot of trouble and maybe bad shots. If you want an easier lens, get the 14 or 15 mm autofocus lens which will figure out the f/stop by itself so you can simply shoot at Tv set at 1/400 (or whatever) like you're used to. BTW the whitebalance (sunny pic) has nothing to do with the amount of light, only the color. ciel bleu, Saskia
  24. dragon2
    Hmm don't mean to be rude but.... How about reading up on how a camera works?? If you want to use a manual lens like the zenitar, you really need to know how f-stops etc work! Build-in light filter? That's the diaphragm. From http://www.rugift.com/: Note: Working with M42 lenses acknowledgement of the focusing with green light is not made. The aperture is set «0.0». Expo-modes: 1. P (program) – identical to Av mode; 2. Tv (flash priority) – doesn’t work; 3. Av (diaphragm priority) – works as usual; 4. M (manual) – aperture and flash are changed. Inaccuracy of exposure defining is indicated by expo-correction. ciel bleu, Saskia
  25. dragon2
    You can always do a print or print-screen of a canopy you colored using the software on square1.com, aerodyne-int.com or paragear.com (just naming a few). I have a couple stand-alone coloring programs for hornet, heatwave, skymaster, but you can't save the designs with these either. ciel bleu, Saskia