chutingstar

See attached color chart from Icarus. Mike ChutingStar.com

Yes, but you would have a rock hard rig between the Optimum 143 and ZPX Pilot 150. Not fun to pack...V310 would still be the better choice. Mike ChutingStar.com

Had that happen once...10-12 linetwists that I couldn't get leverage to get out of, but the canopy was stable. I was well above my decision altitude, and peeled...started a slow pull because I had so much time...and all of a sudden it started untwisting. It came all out above my decision altitude and I was able to grab the top of the cutaway cables and pull them back into place and restow/velcro the cutaway handle. Probably would never find myself in that situation with so much time again...as I've had more than 10 cutaways in 6000 jumps...usually a quick decision/action. But you can pull the cutaway cables back into position very easily. Mike ChutingStar.com

With most 150 mains and an Optimum 143, you'll want the V310. A V308 with an Optimum 143 is really tight...a 150 won't fit in the V308 very well, unless you go with a low-bulk main like the Pulse or ZPX Pilot. Regardless, the V310 would be the best choice for what you are looking to do. You can still downsize later, if needed. Mike ChutingStar.com

You've now been approached by Argus: Wdriessens works for the company. And you now know what they look like if you went to the web site. So at least you've got that covered now...CypresKrew. Mike ChutingStar.com

Just order them straight from NZ Aerosports. http://www.nzaerosports.com/ $250 USD plus shipping Mike ChutingStar.com

Some new linesets/canopies already come fingertrapped/bartacked for the Brake-Toggle from the manufacturer. We leave those as is, unless instructed otherwise. When the Brake-Toggle is a raw end, we fingertrap/bartack at the factory setting unless a knot or different length is requested. I just personally find it a cleaner setup and easier for an equal side-to-side measurement. By the time the steering lines shrink up to an out-of-trim length, they are usually due for a replacement (traditionally). As we find that steering lines need to be replaced every 200-300 jumps. And then a full reline at every 400-600 jumps. Still, we do have to pick-out bartacks to adjust the brake settings from time-to-time for some jumpers. But it's just not that often compared to the hundreds of main setups we do every year. It's usually when someone is starting to really use their front risers and want some extra slack...or they finally figured out their Sabre with 1000 jumps is way out of trim, but they want a few extra inches in the brakes to get them by for a bit longer on that old worn-out lineset. And those who want a knot or a specific adjustment, tell us, and we do as told. Anywho...that's what we do here... Mike ChutingStar.com

Sorry for the delay Junior. Here ya go. Mike ChutingStar.com

That's the part you'll need to work out by trying them on the helmet and then sending all but the one that doesn't fit back to us. You can call, e-mail or pm me for details on the logistics of the shipping/returns. Mike ChutingStar.com

We have had Flatlocks successfully mounted to other manufacturer's helmets, including the Mindwarp. Cookie now makes 6 different types of adaptors for all of their helmet shapes, and we've always found that at least one of those will work on other helmets. The trick is figuring out which one. We'll send out all 6 adaptors, and you just keep the one that fits your Mindwarp with the Flatlock. Mike ChutingStar.com

Oh, that's why you called...I knew there was a reason I should take my sweet time calling you back. Hahahahahaha! Call ya in the morning Joe...sorry, man! Mike ChutingStar.com

The insides are exactly the same: 2 entries per page and each holds 300 jumps. Durability is the same, just a personal preference really. The wire bounding can sometimes get bound up with the pages, but it is not hard to fix. Mike ChutingStar.com

Perfect. I appreciate it! Mike ChutingStar.com

1989 Mike ChutingStar.com

Yo Photo/Video DZ.commers... I need some help with figuring out the location to drill for the CamEye II plug-in on a PC350. I don't have a PC350 here, but am mounting it to an Atomic with a Blackbox today and shipping it out...but can't recall where on the camera the CamEye plugs in...anyone have any photos or measurements from top/bottom/side? Thankya, thankya, thankya... Mike ChutingStar.com

Plus 3 months for original Cypres. Plus 6 months for Cypres2. Mike ChutingStar.com

Can you please explain where this legal status comes from? The FAA doesn't require an AAD, so that wouldn't seem to be the source of this rule. The manufacturer can't tell you what's legal for you to jump - they don't make law. I'm not being a smart-ass, I want to understand where you're coming from here. When it is expires, you are now jumping a non-airworthy item in your reserve container. FAR Part 105 Section 43 (c) does state that "If installed, the automatic activation device must be maintained in accordance with manufacturer instructions for that automatic activation device." Mike ChutingStar.com

A rigger can pack the rig with a Cypres that will expire before the 180-day scheduled repack as long as the unit is up-to-date on service/battery. But on the day the unit's lifetime expires, the rig can no longer be legally jumped until the unit is removed from the rig. Mike ChutingStar.com

The OptimaII by L&B would be exactly what you are looking for... Mike ChutingStar.com

We're currently charging $70 for a tandem I&R. Mike ChutingStar.com

The flatlock plate connects to a Blackbox via screws through the plate, box and into a threaded plate. I just tried inserting two of the threaded plates inside a Blackbox, and they do fit. You would need an extra threaded plate for the side. As far as any problems, it's just that the box, when side-mounted with the Flatlock, would give you a 3/8" gap between the box and helmet...big line catcher. So not ideal. Cookie has just released the Atomic helmet, with an inset quick release on the side, that would eliminate that issue and allow you to do what you are looking to do (without the gap). Although that doesn't help you with the Optik. You might want to consider using a Zkulls (an inset mount) for the side-mount to keep it flush to the helmet and then the Flatlock for the top-mount. The Zkulls on the side would also give you more room for a HypEye D Pro hole. Mike ChutingStar.com

You can mount the Flatlock on the side...I'm just not sure how you would go about making it an easy switch from top to side or vice-versa...if you wanted the camera to shoot from a upright position. I'm sure it can be done, but it might take some extra parts/work to make it a workable swap. Usually you would have the base of the camera connected to the flatlock/box, which works fine for the top-mount. But if you wanted the flatlock on the side, you would want the flatlock connected to the side of the box (not to the camera). Then you would secure the camera with a camera screw through the bottom of the box when side-mounted. So unless you wanted to shoot sideways with the CX100, you would need separate mountings for the side and top to your box for the Flatlock plate, which would have to be moved each time. Hope that makes sense... Mike ChutingStar.com

Deepseed Contacts via e-mail: liam@deepseed.com marketing@deepseed.com sales@deepseed.com libbie@deepseed.com Or via Skype: deepseedcrew Libbie Rose Liam Dunne You can also place an order through a Deepseed dealer while the manufacturer is closed. Mike ChutingStar.com

Gear price comparisons: http://www.chutingstar.com/archives/00000148.html Used/New Combo: http://www.chutingstar.com/archives/00000146.html Mike ChutingStar.com

Cookie's helmets for side-mounting would be the MXV and Atomic. The Rok and Ozone are only made for top-mounting. So you would need to go with the MXV or Atomic if you wanted a Cookie helmet to side-mount the Cookie Blackbox for the CX100. Mike ChutingStar.com