Hooknswoop

Don't use swim goggles for skydiving. When you put them on ion the plane at altitude, the air pressure inside the googles is less than that of ground level, almost 1/2. (I think 18,000 ft is 1/2 an atmosphere.) The goggles seal around your eyes and when you land the pressure inside the goggles is less than surrounding air pressure and the googles will be sucked onto your face. As you pull to get them off, you decrease the pressure in the goggles and pops the blood vessels in your eyes (turning the whites of your eyes red) and around your eyes (giving you black eyes). In SCUBA diving this is called mask squeeze and I saw a case of mask squeeze recently and it was hilarious. The poor guy looked like Marlyn Manson. I haven't actually seen someone jump with swim goggles, but I did stop someone from trying it when they couldn't find their skydiving googles. If anyone has more information or can explain it better, it would be appreciated. (mental note google: 1x10 exp 100, goggle:the eye covering glasses thingys

Aren't you willing to pay the same price? Haven't the men and women who served in your countries armed forces paid for your freedom with their lives? Do you not expect your military to be willing to lay down their lives to protect your freedom? I spent 6 years defending democracy and the U.S. I carry a handgun and have a concealed handgun license. I have pulled it once when someone tried to mug me (never bring a knife to a gunfight). It is like an AAD, you hope you never need it, but if you do, it can save your life. I agree that education is the key and there will always be people that abuse the right, same as people abuse all the other things already mentioned, vehicles, speed limits, etc. Hook

Physiology training is free, or at the NASA facility in Houston it was, and is very educational. It allows each person to identify their own specific symptoms of hypoxia. Everyone reacts differently and each person can react differently day to day. Here are some links: http://www.faa.gov/fsdo/orl/cami.htm http://www.faa.gov/avr/cmo/coa/PH-TR.HTM http://www.lbhyperbarics.com/altitude_training.htm http://www.faa.gov/fsdo/hou/PH-TR.htm http://www.faa.gov/avr/aam/3150-1b.htm (This last one has a list of training locations) Hook

The size was my main point, not really the material. In fact, my PD160 is very old, and quite porous. It does still flare but is definitely more demanding of a total, full toggle flare. I actually want to go to a Tri150 or Spectre 150 now, instead of the 135 I'd been considering. (I've jumped 9 cells too but just like those 7 cells!) The speed increase from downsizing is my main concern -- I ended up downwind in the corner due to my own poor planning and was glad (for a change) to be on a slower canopy. My body doesn't recover as fast now as it did in its first three decades... *** Consider a Spectre 170, Safire2 169, Sabre2 170, Triatholon 170. Maybe going to zero-P and up-sizing would be the best answer. You don't tend to hear many people up-sizing, but before too long even I will be up-sizing. It is all about picking the right tool for the job. Definately demo and see what you like. Having pre-planned approaches for any wind condition at a DZ will make it easier to land safely and accurately, even if the winds change. Hook

i was conversing with the crew dogz at the dz the other day, and they are of the opinion the little hook knives like the one i have on my leg strap are useless, they cited the breaking of them, because there so flimsy. i'm inclined to believe them, as they are certainly more experienced in this area. would it be prudent to get a larger hook knife? *** I would agree that if you really neede to use your hook knife, the little plastic orange hook knife is almost worthless. That was going to be part of my test, to see how well the little plastic thing worked and held up to real use. I didn't get to use it, so I don't know how well it would have worked. I would recommend an aluminum hook knife or a "Jack the Ripper". I think there is even an aluminum version called the "Raptor" of the Ripper. They don't cost much and odds are you'll never need it (unless your a CReW dog and then you should own several), but an aluminim hook knife would hold up a lot better than a plastic one Also I think it is importyant to be able to get the hook knife out with only one hand and to practice removing the hook knife under canopy every now and then. Of course don't run into someone or the ground playing with knifes under canopy Hook

While this wasn't the most violent malfunction I've had, but it sure was damn good for PD-170 @ 1.14. Lots of "G"'s and a very fast spin. We all need to be prepared for a viloent malfunction on every skydive. Right, you've got the rest of your life to cut the line on a reserve line-over A reserve line-over is a whole different deal. Hook

Kevin- You are absolutely correct. I knew it was coming, even which line. I didn'e have to keep track of altitude, within reason of course, and started in tring to cut the line immediately without really looking at the canopy. Hook

The question of weather or not it was possible, and if possible, feasible to cut the offending line in a line over malfunction on a main canopy. Then releasing the opposite brake linbe and using the rear risers to flare with Today, I tried it. I packed my cutaway rig with a PD-170 loaded at 1.14:1 with a line over and a line twist for good measure. I have a small orange hook knife on my left leg strap, the cheapy that comes with the rig and a ripper sewn to my pants leg for back up. I deployed at about 14,500 MSL out of a King Air, taking 3-4 seconds to clear the aircraft. The PD opened hard and immediately took off in a violent spin to the left. I easily retrieved the hook knife off of my leg strap and tried to identify the correct line, which I knew to be the left steering line. After several seconds of violent spinning and still being unable to tell which line to cut, I realized it was hopeless and cutaway. I could clearly see one riser and the steering toggle but I couldn’t tell if it was the steering line causing the line over. It took about 400 ft to get belly to earth (I gauged that from looking up at the cutaway PD) and deployed my main. Conclusions: The idea of using a hook knife to clear a line over on a main is a bad one. This jump was done with a moderately loaded F-111, 9 cell, square canopy. A zero-P, elliptical would be even harder to accomplish the line cutting and would offer less time from the same altitude for the task as the violence of the spin would be greater and the altitude lost in each revolution would be greater. After this experience and the violence of the spin, I think had I been able to cut the line, having the brake stowed on the opposite side would have resulted in several line twists as the canopy spun in the opposite direction. A canopy spinning in line twists with only on brake stowed may be an un-recoverable situation. To trade a line over for spinning line twists with only on brake stowed at the cost of a new steering line, having to use the rear risers to flare with, and possible canopy damage is a bad trade and may result in the reserve ride the jumper was hoping to avoid in the first place, except at much lower altitude. I have only briefly looked the canopy over, but I didn’t notice any damage. Hook

"you'll have to wait 20 min or so....then you'll be able to turn it off. they're all made that way." You can turn a cypres on then immediately (after it counts down) turn it back off. What works for me is pressing it repidly 3 times and hitting it when the light comes on like normal. Hook

"Do you think is was the pack job or the deployment ??" If you look at the links, in one of the pics, you can see they aren't even = spinning line twists. Body position or uneven leg straps. Hook

Oops, I mis-read your post, sorry Dan :-) Do you think we will ever see X-braced tandem mains? Hook

"zp tandems are more expensive than f111. but a tandem canopy is a work tool. it makes you money and ultimately the higher cost of a zp canopy up front yields a higher return, as the zp canopy can greatly out live and out service an f111. purchase price should not be of first concern when choosing tandem equipment. the difference between cheap junk and the best equipment when spread over its money producing lifetime is negligble" Right, which is why I said: "How the canopy holds up to wear and tear and how long of a life span does it have helps determine the long term cost of the canopy. A tandem main that is very old may malfunction more often and may not land as nice as a new one and will have to be replaced. More jumps before having to replace it equates to a lower cost-per-jump." Zero-P tandem mains are cheaper in the long run, even if they cost more initially. That is why the industry is going/has gone to Zero-P tandem mains. Hook

"Many of you will know the outcome of this effort already." LMAO!! Great post, well written, very funny, and good information. Hook

Tandem mains have gone from huge, square, F-111 monsters to smaller, zero-P, fully elliptical canopies with one example having a maximum wing loading of 1.5:1. They have followed the same path as sport mains, lagging behind by several years. Why have they changed? To answer that question you have to ask several more; Who buy’s tandem canopies? What do the buyers look for in a tandem main? Who is actually flying the tandem main? Who’s buying? Drop zone owners mostly and some independent instructors that either get paid extra to jump their own tandem rig and/or travel with their tandem rig from drop zone to drop zone. What are they looking for? Costs are a big factor in what to buy. There are several ways of looking at the cost of a tandem main. Initial cost is a consideration. A tandem main that opens reliable is cheaper in that it costs less for reserve re-packs, the tandem rig is out of service for the re-pack less often, less loss of business because of a malfunction, less chance of losing the canopy, and less chance of losing the reserve free-bag. How the canopy holds up to wear and tear and how long of a life span does it have helps determine the long term cost of the canopy. A tandem main that is very old may malfunction more often and may not land as nice as a new one and will have to be replaced. More jumps before having to replace it equates to a lower cost-per-jump. A tandem main that lands poorly can cost the drop zone lawsuits resulting from landing injuries. A canopy that opens hard can result in injured tandem instructors or passengers or cause damage to the canopy, which can cost the owner money. So tandem owners are looking for a main that is in-expensive, opens nice and reliably, holds up to wear, lands nicely over it’s life span, is safe, and has a long life span. Who’s doing the flying? Mostly Instructors that work for drop zones as independent contractors. They have a minimum of 500 jumps and three years in the sport. They generally have good, to very good canopy piloting skills and probably most jump elliptical canopies in their sport rigs. They must maintain a level of currency to keep their tandem instructor’s rating valid. Conclusion: In the hands of a current, experienced instructor and canopy pilot, a somewhat smaller zero-P elliptical canopy at a moderate (less than1.5) wing loading is a better choice than a large, square, F-111 canopy. Hook

Don't know how great, but I happen to have a meeker exit shot. Hook

"Try this on the ground once.... hang in the hanging harness with line twists to the risers and try to cut the lines or even where the lines are when some one is moving and tossing you around with the twists...." Someone throwing you around in a hanging harness is not the same as spinning line twists. I recently had spinning line twists on a Siletto 97 on an intentional cutaway jump. I could have easily grabbed my hook knife and cut a riser. This almost became a real option as it was a very hard cutaway, even with a loop for a handle. The spinning was smooth and uniform, although fast. I was on my back and could still lift my head to look at the canopy, of course this will not always be possible with spinning line twists. A better simulation of spinning line twists would be to release one brake after opening and ride the spiral. This obviously doesn't include being on your back, but is a better simulation. If I couldn't cutaway from spinning line twists I would attempt to use my hook knife unless I got too low, then fire my reserve. I would have only myself to blame for: 1) being in that situation, and 2) if I couldn't fix it. I religiously (every 30 days) maintain my 3-rings and cutaway cables and I recently added hard housings inserts to my risers. Hook

"Of course HMA will snap before Vectran...Vectran comes in 750 lb and 1000 lb strengths, HMA is 550 lb." Vectran comes in 500 lb (actually something like 528lb) and is used for A-B-C-D lines on a lot of canopies and 750/1000 for lower control lines. My VX is completely lined w/ 500 (528ish) Vectran, including the steering lines. I have replaced the A and B lines once, the steering lines 4 times, and the C-D lines 0 times. The canopy has 420 jumps on it. I replace the lines before they break, especially the steering lines. It is my understanding that HMA doesn't handle being sewn very well. So fingertrapping B and D lines into the A and C lines weakens the line too much. I think that is the reason for continious lines on HMA lined canopies. I don't have any hard facts to back this up, it is only my theory. Hook

"-there was no extra space, the container was custom designed and manufactured for these test jumps by relative workshop. the rig holds 3 parachutes. a 120, 170 & 385. mounted to the cargo container is a 4th parachute and the cargo may be cut." Cool, is the 170 is case there was a problem with the 120? Did he land with the extra weight? "no tandem drogue was used, just a 25" pilot chute." It looks like he tossed a rip cord in the line stretch pic, was it a spring loaded 25 in PC? Also in the first picture, it looks like one of the canreamen are hanging onto something on the bottom left corner of the rig, what is that? Sorry for all the questions, just very interested. Hook

Another question, what was his terminal velocity? Hook

Looks like he is jumping a tandem rig. Did he use a drogue system? How did you fill the extra space in the container? "free flight vertical speed -15 fps." Does this mean decent rate at full flight? Only a 900 fpm decent rate? "a max positive speed in a flare measured at 18fps." Meaning he was climbing in a flare with all that weight on? At 1080 fpm? Hook

Climbing down and hanging off the wheel is fun. Going hand over hand out to the wing tip will get the pilot's attention (and the aircraft owner if you don't use the rivet lines for where the ribs are inside the wing as your hand holds), standing on the step, facing foward, and doing a reverse pike exit is fun, and hanging by your toes from the wing is also fun. Be careful when doing a new exit, especially one requiring more climbing around. Pre-mature deployments are bad, damaging the aircraft is bad, making the aircraft difficult to control w/o getting permission from and warning the pilot is bad. Practice any new climbout on the ground first. Hook

"p.s. I currently jump our new Soax ARL sq.ft. canopy! and it flies even better than my old Xaos LRA sq. ft. canopy!" You hooked your Xaos up backwards? :-) Hook

Contact AirAnn, she has something set up that may help. Hook

I think the Safire1/Safire2 thread has made me dislesic. Right, you don't need a master rigger to re-line a main, but a new line on a reseve is considered a major repair and therefore requires a master rigger. Thanks for keeping me in check :-) Hook

"A master rigger that is...." On a main, yes, but not necessary on a reserve. Hook