likestojump

Aint gonna work. Many people are too lazy to even put in a container size. Some are so damn lazy they just list "good rig" and a price... Forcing people to add info will just discourage them from posting the ads. Sorry, just being realistic. And trust me, I see lots of ads, as I am one of the classifieds editors who has to constantly "pretty up" the ads that are incoherent.

Here are two pictures for you. One is an MT with a PDR113, the other one is NOT an MT and has something that's NOT a PDR113 can you tell the difference ?

I am betting it's not the container at fault, but rather the pilot chute.

I am pretty sure he is pointing out how a large amount of real field data disagrees with your statement. My personal choice is a medium sized leather hackey or a PVC tube mounted with a piece of tape fed through it and holding it down at both ends with the handle taped around to close the side openings. I find hackey/monkey fist much easier to grab as you can reach back with a slit between a set of fingers and have a solid grasp of the handle. With a freefly pud its usually a struggle of using all fingertips, especially if it also has a side chip that tucks under the separate flap. I would say that overall the eaisest thing to do when you enjoy a hackey but want more security is use something the a poster a few post above posted a picture of - a hackey with a tucking side flap (i believe thats a Mirage thing), that sits very secure, but is also very easy to grab/ pull.

Spectre 120 with a 28" ZP PC with a WS bridle. Other various 99-120 sized canopies with a 26" ZP PC with a regular bridle F111 is definitely much easier to pack neater, especially if you have a shitty inelastic "old style" BOC material, but it starts looking/feeling like shit very early on, as opposed to ZP lasting many times over. Not to mention that one is very likely to drag/snag their PC, at which point ZP will hold up a lot better.

a bit hypocritical to bitch about how someone else shouldn't be bitching, don't you think ?

Yep and I fully respect the fact that your job is to do a FULL inspection, and my job is to know as much about my gear as possible. For what its worth, assembling the various components as per the manual is not rocket science and so long as you don't snag lines on hook velcro, or pick at the lines it is my opinion that there is far more to be gained for a newish jumper doing this than leaving it to a rigger. Why not hook up my own reserve? I have seen quite a few minor and major rigging errors , but here's one that I think is relevant to your case. I got a complete rig from a 20+ year veteran of the sport, 5000+ jumps, S&TA - basically a very credible and heads up person. When I got to taking his rig apart, he had his PD main slinks hooked up wrong. Instead of taking the loop and feeding it under the tab and then hitching it over, he just simply placed the loop over the tab. The canopy was a sub 100sq ft crossbrace. So, if someone hands me their rig and it's partially assembled, I ain't putting my name on it until I have verified every component to 100% satisfaction. In case like yours it would take about the same time, UNLESS an error was made, in which case it would take longer and you would subsequently have a larger bill.

Chopper Chuck - he had three cutaways before he hit 100 jumps

Finally came up with a fix for this (for me anyways) Had an old pair of jeans that don't fit anymore, so I chopped up a leg and made my 'clamp condoms'. Basically very simple, a U shaped piece of denim with fold overs on the ends, now the denim is between the clamps and the canopy, no real risk of them coming into contact! (my engineering mind seems to work better with alcohol fuel!) those red caps get worn pretty easy my solution is Pony 3202 clamps reverse the caps (take the long ones from the handle and put them on the mouth piece) put tags on the ends of the handles I like clamps a lot more than packing weights. I use them to pack squares AND rounds.

... and I don't like it. What do others think? May as well mandate AAD use for A/B license holders and the "no more than one GoPro unless you have 500 jumps". Micromanaging a sport where one can easily kill themselves will only reduce the participants awareness and learning curve. Surely if one is a C/D license holder they should be competent enough to make the pull altitude decision.

the best advice I ever got to keeping a sewing machine happy is to have lots of spare needles and to never be lazy with oiling it ! enjoy the 20U

I don't believe it has a life limit as per the maker. However, it is probably an older reserve that is not worth much :( If you specify the model and the DOM you could get a more precise answer.

First off whoever said that 20 years means it's expired ???

Heh. I find that interesting, and am very curious what about any of my posts made you think that it's "fairly obvious" that I am not an attorney. Would you be willing to share? And, because I am not trying to play a "gotcha" game, but am genuinely curious, I will let you know that I am an attorney. Licensed to practice (and practicing) in California since 2006. Just a friendly reminder, this thread has never been about you. Nor is this the penis measuring competition. have a wonderful day !

An all black rig will appear less dirty when dirty and will sell easier than almost any other single color. As for a canopy, think BRIGHT, BRIGHT, BRIGHT. The first step in avoiding a canopy collision is being seen. I think a combination of dark colors in TYEDYE would be least prone to showing age/wear. purple/black, navy/black, blue/black , etc would age real well as far as the canopy - I agree with bright, with a small exception - top skin of the center cell gets all the sweat and dirt of the packers hands - thus I would recommend a dark color for the center cell top skin, at the least. The added benefit is the ease of packing :) I am attaching a picture of a originally yellow center celled canopy

here's what PD says : http://www.performancedesigns.com/pmd_faq.asp#7 overall there's no industry standard for relines. A canopy jumped in Canada and landed on nice grassy LZ will need relines a lot less often than the one jumped in Arizona. Ask your local rigger to inspect and give you a recommendation.

haha * 10 you are so proud of being an attorney (as per your earlier threads) Do what lawschool taught you to do - RESEARCH

I have seen a few pre-Odyssey Javelins with cut-in laterals. Not sure about the type of legstraps though, but that's a lot easier to change...

And Texas actually did do something about it ! re : http://www.nationalreview.com/corner/268436/loser-pays-texas-small-business-wins-stephen-demaura

Valid point :). the previous pics only showed the left mudflap where I did not spot the orange Odyssey embroidery on orange wasn't visible. good luck !

Why do you think that container is an Odyssey ?

I am betting you did your measurements wrong. a 45" chest at 5'9.5" is a helluva upper body combine that with being 178lbs and I call for HAVING SOMEONE ELSE MEASURE YOU !

if it's an Odyssey it most likely has chest and hip rings. if you are 5'9", you need the MLW to be 17", instead of 19". the cost to replace the pieces of webbing between the rings is $150 USD + inspection + shipping. Well worth it. Contact Sunpath in the morning. Legstraps wrap around your thighs, they do nothing to "take in" MLW that's too long

if you would ask me to pack an M4 with a PDR176 and a Sabre2-190 I would tell you to get an M5 just saying, after a few packjobs on a M4 with a PDR160 :)

I agree. I also tend to think mandating a 20 year life limit is silly. Worse of all convincing your customers that 20 years is an industry RULE is plain fraud. I like having the ability to say Yes or No based on my Inspection.