Miami
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Everything posted by Miami
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Nice! That's one of the cars I'll be looking at next year when it's time for a new one. It'll be between that or a VW GTI. Miami
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Check to make sure your backlight is not turned on. Miami
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As much as they need...all depends on the individual. edit - That was a little vague, even for me. For refreshers I have them go over everything, but they tell it to me...not me telling them stuff they already learned sometime in the past. If they know everything and can demonstrate it without flaw the training can take as little as 15 minutes. If they have fuzzy areas we go over those areas until they are clear, and I've had refreshers like that take over 2 hours to train. Miami
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That's what I'm thinking, too. Makes me wish we had gotten an inspection when we bought the house, but I wonder if an inspector would have found this. Talked to the mold guy, getting a sample done would cost $3-400, so that's out. Kind of got my own air sample though...when I got home from work my nose got running, as it has been doing since Sunday afternoon (when I uncovered the mold). Miami
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Thanks for that link....lots of good info there! Miami
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We've only been in this house for 6 months, so not sure how long ago the potential leak was fixed, but there was a big patch job to the drywall under the kitchen sink surrounding the plumbing, which is why we think there was a previous leak. He did a bunch of thermal imaging of the area and stabbed a little moisture detector into a bunch of spots in the drywall and could find no leak or moisture though, so hopefully that stuff is accurate! Now that you mention it...he did not do any type of air sampling to check for spores...is it possible that the mold that I found is all dead and there are no more active spores if there is no longer a leak? Miami
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Yikes! In relation to that $1300 doesn't sound too bad. In reality it would be $1200...the $100 I already had to pay to have him to come out and look gets applied to the total. Miami
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Yea, when the guy scoped the space in the wall there was a decent amount of mold inside on the drywall and studs, mainly right behind the sink. No insulation and I'm on a concrete slab so at least that makes it a little easier... Miami
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Did you redo everything yourself or did you have someone come in to do it? Miami
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A day to a day and a half, sounded like a 2 person team but he wasn't specific on that (I didn't ask though). No breakdown on materials, but most of what they would be doing would be removing things anyway...not sure if the material used to isolate the room is disposable or not, or if the filtration for the hepa equipment is disposable as well. I asked about doing some of the prep myself (ripping out the cabinets) but he was worried about that spreading spores if it was done in open air instead of in a sealed/filtered environment. Miami
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There was actually no dampness...it appears to have come from an old repair to a leak, but whoever did the repair did not bother to dry the area after it was fixed and voila...I get the mold. From the research I did you can't do that to drywall (bleach it and paint over it)...everything else (non-porous anyway) you can and it's fine but drywall has to be replaced. Miami
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Normally I would get another quote but all of the companies I called want $100-150 to come out and look...the guy I had come out was the only one who apply that torward the work that gets done. I think I might try and see if I can get any of them to give me a quote over the phone if I give them very specific details... He wrote down the two types of what my mold could be, but those are back at home now...but yea, black mold = bad, and I don't want my 3 year old daughter around that! Miami
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Anyone gone through the process of getting mold out of their house? I just uncovered a decent sized patch of black mold on the drywall behind my fridge, had a mold guy come out and take a look and I have black mold all the way across the lower part of the drywall behind the cabinets next to the fridge! The area of drywall that needs to be removed is approx 2' X 18', and the cabinets will have to be ripped out as well. They quoted $1300 to do it (rip out cabinets, remove moldy drywall, clean and treat studs, all under sealed and hepa filtered conditions...I elected to put the new drywall up myself to save some $), but I still think that's a little steep... What do you think? Miami
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Macro is fun! Here is one of my models, who lives in my back yard on a sunflower my daughter grew. Most of my macro work is on film... Miami
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Well if cost is that much of a concern why not just pick up a roll of lint-free paper towels and wrap those on a popsicle stick? I can't afford to ruin my sensor so I prefer to use what was made specifically for cleaning the sensor, not something that's pretty close but still works ok. edit for grammar Miami
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I thought not using compressed air was common knowledge...when I referred to "hand operated air blower" I meant this. I've had great luck with it for getting a good deal of the crap off of my sensor, then if there is anything stubborn I break out the liquid cleaner. This type of blower is also the only method recommended by canon for cleaning the sensor yourself. Miami
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Another puzzle type game that's kinda fun...Phit. Miami
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That's cool as hell that your shop will do it free...no one around here will do that... This is from the Photographic Solutions, Inc. website: Another good reason to use sensor swabs instead of the pec pads to clean your sensor... Miami
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Just a note, Photographic Solutions recommends not using the pec pads you linked for cleaning ccd's. Those are for cleaning lenses and filters. For ccd's you should use sensor swabs. Also, blowing air across the ccd is fine as long as you follow the rules...lock the mirror up, point the body downward (so the crap can fall out), use only a hand operated air blower (never your own breath), and never put the tip of any blower past the lens mount. This will get a good bit of the crap off of your lens, and once you have the blower you can do it as often as you want for free. Miami
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Will you be out at the dz this weekend? I'll bring my cleaning crap out...I've done my 20D quite a few times, the kit is the same for the 400D. Miami
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That fisher price seat looks a lot like the britax marathon, only it's way the hell less expensive! I would think that one would work perfect...it doesn't go quite as high on the weight (55# vs 65# on the marathon) but unless you have an obese kid that will still hold you till it's time to get a booster. Miami
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We did different seats...never were satisfied with what we found on the ones that were convertible. From birth to 1 year we used the Graco Quattro Tour and loved it. The car seat snaps into a base that you put in the car and into the stroller, so if your kid is sleeping you don't have to wake them to switch from one to the other. At one year we switched to the Britax Marathon after doing a lot of research and are very happy with it. It has one of the highest weight capacities and was the most comfortable for our daughter, not to mention it got some of the best reviews of all the seats available. We're using a graco booster now (she's almost 4) in the wife's odyssey but we still use the britax in my pos car for increased safety and because it's still super comfortable and secure for the kiddo. edit to add the booster seat link Miami
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Yea, it's killing me! Up until that level I could basically just look at it and tell where the lines were supposed to go, but with level 23 I just can't see it. That would be silly for me to look up the answer to it, takes away the whole point of playing it! Miami
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I can't open it here at work, but I'll see if I can write out the moves tonight (as I have no life). Miami
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That's when I knew it was time to get rid of the xbox, 10 year olds were kicking my ass! Miami