Laszloimage

Years ago we had to conclude the "bad batch" theory about the TRV900s. I remember lot of my colleges were jumping those models and they actually figured out what serilal numbers and what DOM were the bad ones. One guy (Mike Meyer) had two TRV900s, one always had the same issue as the HC7 these days (shaking image while sit flying or going head down) the other one functioned 100% at any circumstances. I know it doesn't solve the problem, but it could justify the "Bad batch" theory. How and why would Sony make mistake (same?) like that anyway? -Laszlo-

Any better video editing soft ware should give you an option to create an audio file. -Laszlo-

Thanks Matt!

Thank you Doug! Next time I'll let you know in advance. I've been still using Canon equipment except 3X converter. So if you have time and energy you can show these images to the Canon guys. Which NAB did you mean? I can't go to Vegas, but I deffinetly interested about the NYC one if it happens at same time of the year. Blue Skies!

Thank you man! ...yes I wish I could afford that lens. I just about breaking even for the $220 3X converter after a world record! I hope people will order more prints... -Laszlo-

Yeh, point two has a bit of motion blur. Earlier today I was shooting with a faster 1/250 shutter speed (also with alower ISO like 250), but I had to go up to ISO 400 and come down to 1/160 shutter speed. ... but I still can't belive how good the results turned out to be.

At nigth you can do it with the flash (it nornally says multiple in the settings) combining with a slow shutter speed. At day light as others said already you have to stich them together in a soft ware. Film cameras have a multiple exposure feature, where you can expose a same frame multiple times. ...I havnt seen it on DSLR yet. -Laszlo- www.laszloimage.com

Hand held!!! ...wasn't easy though.

They just made it... Finally at the very last attempt they built a 140-way and turned asecond point here at Skydive City, FL. It's a new WORLD RECORD! The very uniqe thing is about these photos I took them from the ground! I used a Canon 100-400mm IS lens (thanks to Scotty Burnes) a Kenko 3X tele-converter and a Canon 5D. Full manual setting 1/160 shutter, f5.6, ISO400, and manual focus. -Laszlo- www.laszloimage.com

Not exactly... I'm using a Canon 100-400mm f5.6 IS with a 3X tele-converter. So it gives me 1200mm. Of course not as good if I were using the actual 1200mm f5.6. With my set up I can't use AF and f5.6 gives me f16.8 exposure. So I have to use high ISO (ISO250-320 on the 5D) because I need to maintain at least 1/200 shutter speed too. -Laszlo-

I took these photos from the ground in the last few days here a t Skydive City during a a 2 point big-way attempt. 1200mm zoom, No cropping! more shots on my web site: http://laszloimage.com/March_2007_NEW/index.htm -Laszlo- www.laszloimage.com

I wish I know that much about video production (and technology) as you do... The timing depends on lot of things. If the tandem is doing poised exit I leave a hair late in a sit position and stay front of them but then I can't get the plane in the back-ground. In the other hand with tandems normally a leave at the same time as the pair leaves the plane and turn with them as they coming down on the hill. If they light I roll back to my belly so I don't sink out with my fat ass when the drouge comes out. If the tandem is heavier or I know the instructor holds onto the drouge for a few seconds (5 or more...) then I stay in the sit until the drouge. My wing desing doesn't "catch" enough air to stay slow enough with the tandem while I sit flying.(but at least I can stay when some crazy ones do 20-25 droug delay!) Safety wise (deffinetly when you learning!!!) better to be a bit early. It's always safer to be lower than the tandem because that way you can't hit the drouge, pulus the instructor can see you too so he won't throw the drouge into your face either. Step by step and jump by jump you can make those exits tighter and tighter. It will take some practice. Stay safe! -Laszlo- in this pic. is actually me front floating with the tandem

Full manual, including the flash power as well, RAW files, and no faster than 1/320 (because of the flash...) ...sometimes AF. I have a variety of lenses and cameras. Video for tandems auto is fine... Video for production kinda stuff, manual again.

Doug, It works great from the OTTER, but as others said already it really makes no sense from the King Air, and it could be quiet dengerous. jimoke and vdschoor explained the best options. Unfurtunately it doesn't work from all air craft... My best advise is try to lear front float from upper wing planes like Caravan or OTTER. Good luck and stay safe! -Laszlo-

People say a lot of good thing about it. I personally try to stay away from zoom lenses in free fall. They heavy and more "sensitive" in free fall. I've been using zoom lenses before and when I was too lazy to tape it for protection, caused an error signal in my camera multiple times. With protection they worked fine but still too heavy... For free fall I prefer fixed lenses. Of course this way is more expensive since I have to buy different lenses for different focal lenghts. But I make sure I get paid for my photos too! -Laszlo-

The advantage of the full frame is you have more room to play with depht of field, you actullay get the full coverage of the lens, and better image quality too. (as you noticed already) The reason is you get better colors, less noise, and more dynamic image is the size of the indivisual pixels in the image sensor. The 5D has a 4368x2912 resolution (12.7MP) on the 36x24mm sensor plate vs. the 30D's 3504x2336 (8.2MP) on the 22.5x15mm sensor plate. Now if you take the time and do the math the 5D has 4 times bigger indivisual pixels in its sensor. That means it can collect more light (more signal) with each pixel so the colors are detected more accurately with significantly less noise. Because of that I can bravely say when I use ISO400 is on my 5D just as smoth as the ISO200 is on my XT. And top of that just the fact of the nearby 13MP resolution. More res.=More detail. -Laszlo-

Yeh, I have to agree in the land based photo. I use more often my XT for tandem landing shots with my 200mm lens.

Yes this is the dude you met at Z-hills in 2002. No I don't get darkened edges with 580 and 15mm combination. It covers it for good. You'll might see pictures on my web site www.laszloimage.com where the corners of the photos are darker, but those are in purpose. I like that "trick" when I use my 15mm lens but the flash is set to 24mm. So the center of the image lit up (and mor flash power concentrated) and everything around it is darker. See the attached pictures. -Laszlo-

As I said I use the "flippy thing" to cover a 14mm wide angle. But if you're useing an XT (or other model with the 1.6 factor) when you use a 15mm lens it will work as 24mm in 35mm format. So your flash should be set to 24mm. (if you want to have the whole image coverd...) The problem normally comes when you take the shot and the closest person in the picture wears white and every one else farther in the back in black. Very hard to balance it out. Normally I just expose it for the blacks so the white suit will be very bright (and hopefully not too much) and I fix it in a software. But the best way to find out is to take a lot of shots with and whithout the diffuser. It's just like the camera setting, there's no one which works all the time. It's with the flash too. -Laszlo-

On the 580 flash there's two "little thing" The small white card is for close ups where no reflective surface (light colored walls) to utilize bounce. I don't say it's immpossible to use in free fall but must be very very difficult. The othe "flippy" thing is to make the flash's angle lot wider. Using that will cover 14mm of view (35mm format) and doesn't soften the light at all. I would say the diffuser can be untilized for some very high end "free fall portraits". but it requires a dimmed light (like closer to sunset) since you'll lose a lot's of flash power so your camera exposure settings have to be lower too. Or just use the flash on full power on the regular bright day, but then you have to take a pictures within 3-4 feet and your flash will recycle 5-6 times during a skydive. Or the other option is to brake your neck and mount 3-4 580 flashes on your helmet and use them together... -Laszlo- www.laszloimage.com The attached picture was taken with a 5D, Sigma15mm lens, and the 580 flash on half power with a "little flippy thing" to cover 14mm view. ...I'm only 4feet away from them!

Check out these links on bhphotovideo.com The XT body is $514.95 http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=6222&A=details&Q=&sku=371189&is=REG&addedTroughType=categoryNavigation ...and a Canon 15mm f2.8 lens:http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=8454&A=details&Q=&sku=12069&is=GREY&addedTroughType=categoryNavigation the two toghether a bit over a grand, but a very nice set up.

Yes that's what he uses. Matter the fact he has the older 1st generation one with a Nikon lens mount. The flash sync is only 125/sec and he can "bump it up" to 180/sec. But it works as you see it in the magazines... Yes it's big and heavy compare to todays cameras. But now he's in the "trap" because he sold all of his Canon stuff when he swithched to full frame and now he still can't buy a Nikon with 24x36mm sensor. (I remember when Tony was shooting with a D60 cost as much as the 5D now). -Laszlo-

100% true!

CMOS vs. CCD, why does that matter for skydiving? low light higher ISO setting (like sunsets) makes a differnce... Also you can get a "ready to use" external remote for for any Canon, requires no additional rigging! check this: http://ranchproshop.com/accessories.php?brand=26 Square 1 and other stores are selling them too. I never had any error99 with any of my cameras (300D, 350D, and 5D). It happaned with others, replacing the compact flash card problem always was gone. (sorry I can't remember which were the exact "bad models"). "D200 is as good as D5 just way cheaper" How about a full frame sensor? The D200 has the 1.5 factor! (plus the 5D has almost 3MP more res. which isn't that important) When you start taking photos on a pro level trust me you want a full frame camera, makes a huge difference! I still use my XT (1.6 factor) and I quiet happy with is performance, but as I said the full frame makes a major leap when you want to utilize your lenses on a pro level. Nikon just doesn't have that yet. Canon has the Ds1, Ds1 markII, and 5D. The only other manufacture actually makes full frame (24x36mm) cameras is Kodak. Tony Hathaway uses one, it was a very good camera 3yrs ago...(deffinetly for the price), but now the 5D is way better for jumping. But I still agree there's nothing wrong with Nikons, and I deffinetly recommend it if someone already has the lenses. To start from scrath... Canon. It's not from me it's from photographers from Sports Illustrated who actually shoot for the Olympics (they probably know better...) -Laszlo-

Actually I do know about Nikon. I didn't say it's impossible to use them for skydiving, but lot more difficult. That's why mostly everybody uses Canon in skydiving. Nikon D2Xs uses CMOS sensor (but this camera is big, heavy and expensive) the rest of them are built with CCD. CMOS is better than CCD! Can you please tell me which technical fact was inaccurate B***t in my previous posting? Thanks! -Laszlo- ..oh the answer to the original question: More resolution is better of course, but if you dont crop the image 8MP or 10MP really doesn't make a differnce if you make an 8x10 print.