Laszloimage

I have PS elements as well, also I know how to use it. Photo Impact is easier to use. Definitely when you have to create titles, watermarks, and etc... Also any Photo Impact project can be saved as PSD and open it up in PS.

This is one of the reason I use ULED's Photo Impact instead. This software looks very similar to PS when you open it up. But certain features like placing pre-made texts, logos and etc. (this program calls them OBJECTS) is lot faster and easier than PS. In the other hand this software is just as complex as PS, so requires some experince. The price of it is extremly cheap, it's about $100 only!!! Unfortunately so far it only runs on PC's. Sorry, I didn't give you the exact answer to your PS question, but at least I hope I helped to create a lot faster work flow trying something different.

Looks like the 4min "auto power off" is just a hair too short for him. I checked the options on my both cameras (XT and 5D). On both the next step is 8min (mine set there). I just didn't have the cameras when I typed the last message... Anyway... I never killed a battery using 8min "auto power off", but it's definitely long enough (for me) to have the camera on even if make a "go around" on jump run. Further more I have very good experince with all my Canon cameras not burning power like crazy. For exaple I can shoot all day long landings with my XT and Canon 70-200mm USM IS lens (which of course uses lot of extra juice...) only with that one tiny XT battery. But no doubt, I would take the advice from the rest of the guys. Always have a spare battery or two and have them charged before the "day starts". ...don't forget your CF card either! -Laszlo-

Sorry about the sarcastic approach, but did you think about to reads its manual??? This is a super easy setting in the menu. Press the menu button navigate trough the options until you find auto "power off" select it (use the button for selection in the midle of the big dial ) select a longer time like 15-20 minutes. Problem should be solved after that. -Laszlo-

...yeh, pretty much how it works. I would still ask the TV station what kind of format do they prefer. If its only a minute or two long segment in the 6pm local news I wouldn't worrie too much. It will be aired maybe three times that night and that's it. So any mini DV will work, but they want to have it on tape since most likely you won't be able to firewire the footage. If the charity event going to be a part of some kind of documentary and showed later on Discovery, History, or one of those channels maybe the HDV is a good idea. From here your buget sets the limit of the "what kind of camera?" I assumme there's not a whole lot of money involved in this project, so even if you want to provide HD video you should be OK to use Sony HC1, HC3, HC5, or HC7. -Laszlo-

All of those advices by those guys are true. Of course the flash is the best option though... But one more thing... make sure your exposure metering is set correctly. In this practicular case you wanted to have your subject (the jumper) exposed properly. But your camera adjusted to the whole frame's brightness which was dominated by the bright clouds in the back ground. I not sure about the 400D, but on the 350D I have 3 different settings to measure light. I suggest to use the one as shown in the attached picture. In this mode the camera try to adjust to the center of the image. Also if you're using the "burst" mode make sure in Cfn (costum functions) the setting is "No AE lock", so as long as you pressing the shutter realese (bite switch) your camera keeps adjusting to the light. If you're using no flash AF combination I would recommend the Av mode (like f6.3 or above) to have DOF and easier faster AF. If it's getting darker make sure you crank up the ISO, so you'll get fast enough shutter speed. Further more please read your camera manual, there's lot of usefull information! -Laszlo-

I don't see the point to jump with a JVC HD100U It's too big and we know 1080 is the winner format anyway (of courese 1080p vs. 1080i) I like the idea of the new Sony XDCAM (the EX-1) But I would still prefer to jump with the V1U because of its size. If I was jumping the size and the weight of the JVC HD100U I would rather mount an ARRI-235 35mm movie camera on my helmet... Norman Kent, Joe Jennings, and Tom Sanders are the experts on that field though. -Laszlo-

They have lots of different products. The one you showed (the link) works. I know because I bougth the same thing from these guys during the summer, and I used it without any problem. It's a bit pricy though. Did you get some kind of deal from them? -Laszlo-

Interested? I make switches (Pro Mouth Switch) Also I started to make adaptors so any switch witha a 2.5mm strereo plug can be used. I don't have any pro Nikon at this moment but I can make some if there's an interest. Please see these pics of the D70s and D80 version. Please respond in a PM. Thanks! -Laszlo-

I agree, I don't care about the whuffo's thoughts either.

Thanks I was curious because of the single chip...

There's always a way to practice on the ground. Photography existed way before skydiving... ...and this Av setting is a photography issue not a skydiving one,

Spot, Beside the shallower DOF on 1/2 inch sensonsor is there any more adventage vs. the 3x1/3 inch used by the Z-1 or the V-1? Like color and low light performance? -Laszlo-

I would definitely recommend Av if you’re using manual focus and no flash. This way your DOF will be always the same. (please see the links about DOF on this thread) Also if you’re going to use AF your camera will achieve it lot faster and more accurately Since the aperture never changes. Once you start using a flash things will be different. Unless if you selecting “high speed sync” which is significantly reduces the efficiency of the flash. Personally I shoot RAW and I set everything manually most of the time, but it requires some post processing time on the computer. It wouldn’t work for tandems for sure. -Laszlo-

These are great. Congratulations! -Laszlo-

Thanks Guys! I'll try to work something out for the right angle version.

Hi everybody with Nikon DSLR cameras. Reading this thread about the issues to remote trigger (bite switch and etc...) the Nikon cameras I came up with the solution. You can use any of the existing switches on the market as long as they come with the 2.5mm stero plug (Pro Mouth Swict, Conceptus....) using this adaptor. Or I have the Pro Mouth Siwtch with the Nikon plug. Either the adaptor or the complete switch works with D70S, D80 and other models with the same type of plug (D40x???) If there's enough interest it will be available with the pro series Nikon plugs (D200, D300, D2X, D2H, and etc) I also have the adaptor system for Canon digital plugs (10D, 20D, 30D, 40D, 5D, 1D, and 1Ds series) So if you upgrade your XT or XTi you don't need a new bite switch just get an adaptor. Please see the pictures. If anyone is interested for further info please send me a PM -Laszlo-

I think DSE is a the man to answer these type of questions all the time. I have no answer at all, but most definitely I have the same experince. I always have this type of issue with SONY tapes (even if their camera gear is superior without a doubt) So, my Sony camcorders have the least problems when I use Panasonic tapes. I'm not kidding, I have no clue about the explaination, but that's how it works (at least according my experince). -Laszlo-

Right on Matt Keep it on! ...and by the way you worked for it!

Very nice Matt, Congrats!!! Did you get credits in the book somewhere? Descent pay? I also have a book cover come out this year author: Thomas A. Koldicz title: In extreme leadership publisher: Wiley&Sons -Laszlo-

You want the bite switch. The "digital plug" means it's made for the cameras with the special Canon connection (like 20D, 30D, 40D, 5D, and etc...) -Laszlo-

Thanks man! I messed something up, so left more space between each other...

We luv Bev!!! Nice ones Mike! My favorites from Skydive City's turkey meet: http://laszloimage.com/November_2007_NEW/pages/Nov_18th_07_MG_7370.htm http://laszloimage.com/November_2007_NEW/pages/Nov_21st_07_MG_7442.htm http://laszloimage.com/November_2007_NEW/pages/Nov_23rd_07_MG_7527.htm http://laszloimage.com/November_2007_NEW/pages/Nov_24th_07_MG_7592.htm http://laszloimage.com/November_2007_NEW/pages/Nov_24th_07_MG_7624.htm http://laszloimage.com/November_2007_NEW/pages/Nov_24th_07_MG_7698.htm http://laszloimage.com/November_2007_NEW/pages/Nov_25th_07_MG_7796.htm http://laszloimage.com/November_2007_NEW/pages/Nov_25th_07_MG_7847.htm -Laszlo-

Phil, I have to agree with you on this subject. I guess we still need to wait a few more years to have NLE sys just as qick as our good old analog. I make my cuts as I record anyway. Infact I use the "edit search" a lot if I don't like some of my recordigs (like part of interview or some face shot) and start if over from the very end of the very last clip on my tape. So I don't have to deal with that on the 20min call. I have the NLE's time line in my head and I make my video shoot based on that. The greatest thing would be if I could start and stop the music recording straigth to my video camera as I strart and stop recording the video. Multiple audio source option syncronized with the "Rec" button would be the best for tandem videos. So after the jump all I would need to do is to make a dub. All these combined with solid memory capturing could make it even faster if could copy the final product to media (these days DVD) with multiple speed. Reviewing could be done in sections. The interview and other stuff while we ride to altitude, the jump while we waiting for the tandem to land, and the final report while we walk to our video station. ...I could even make the 10min call Anyway, I stop dreaming... Right now at the busy tandem DZ the good old method is still better than NLE. Of course if someone wants to mail videos out and deal with all the editing after hours a computer can make a lot nicer product. -Laszlo-

Spot It's 3mm. I guess most countries are use metric system anyway...