Laszloimage

I made a switch for one dude for his D80. If the D70s uses the same kind of remote here's the wireing solution: Black wire is the ground, Green is the AF and exposure, White is the shutter. Based on this what you ned to do is you connect your two pole switch to the 3 wires the way Green and White together and Black onto the other prong. This way you'll get a result if you were raming the shutter button without pressing half way down. It should work. I'm not a Nikon guy so I can't tell wich AF setting will work the best, so I would figure that out on the ground... But the guy who uses that D80 pretty much clueless about photography and still gets relatively good results. -Laszlo-

I know it's not an easy solution but if you could install XP Pro Service Pack-2 instead of Vista. But than you can run any software written to PC. -Laszlo-

I heve to agree with DSE. My 2yrs old Gateway laptop what I bougth on e-bay for $1800 runs AVID Express pro HD just fine(it has the processor, screen res, RAM and etc...). The only plus I need is an external hard drive. All computers need separated HDD's anyway for video editing... My girlfriends Mac Book Pro with same features can't run the same soft ware (AVID) by the same reason it's not running on Vista. AVID hasn't updated it yet. Also her 1yr old MAC started to overheat and keeps shutting down. Furthermore MAC OS X can't even defragment a hard drive (which is super important when you working on big video porojects all the time) it requires to install a 3rd party software! XP Pro does it... Computers are computers, they are all super complex machines. They all require extended knowlege and trainig of their technical back ground when some one wants to use them for video editing or any other difficult application. -Laszlo-

It depends what kind of job are you looking for. If it's a kind a job what requires to be able to work in some kind of extereme eviroment plus needs to heve some people skills then skydivinginstructor/videographer could be a big help. This guy Vladi Pesa (used to work at DeLand) now is one of those instructor on those zero gravity 707 flights. He personally told me the one of the major reason he got this job because his previous professinal skydiving job. (he also speaks few languages) I hope it helped. -Laszlo- I hope

I modify Kodak point and shoot digital cameras. They work, a quiet few guys using them already. The only problem is as soon as I make the modification the camera loses its warranty. And of course these things are not designed for skydiving either, but so far they hold up... Send me a PM if you're interested. -Laszlo-

Matt, You can get the HC-3 cameras for $500 on e-bay. If you're lucky even cheaper... The HC-5 or the HC-7 won't give you that much plus for the the extra money. http://cgi.ebay.com/Sony-Digital-MiniDV-HDR-HC3-HDV-1080i-Camcorder-GREAT_W0QQitemZ280148443341QQihZ018QQcategoryZ122611QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Also we know that the HC-3 is pretty reliable for skydiving. (Scotty Burns at Z-hills probably can tell you) -Laszlo-

Canon 580 EX Also you can use multiple flashes (if you can afford, and carry the weight) so each one of the uses less power but working together providing more light. Less power= faster recycle time. Others mentioned the batteries already... -Laszlo-

Thank you Zee and Tony! I've been stealing from Tony though... I stole some knowlege from him! Here's some fresh stuff from few hours ago. ...some skydiving "Jurnalism" -Laszlo-

Lonnie, It's hard to say, bacause it depend by the lens, the quality of the light, the picture is taken toward or away from the sky, and etc. And also depends by your taste, whatever appirence you like better. Personally a daylight WB seems to me a bit too blue. If its too red at flash WB I would try the cloudy one. If you're shooting in RAW you can chage it easily. If you're using Canon's Digital Photo Professional to process and convert RAW files you can select "Color Temp" where you can change color temp in 100Kelvin steps. Sometimes the best way is to create a few different JPEG's or TIFF's and slecet the one you like the best. Normally the one has the accurate color of your photo subject. Remember you have two different light sources, the Sun and your flash. So the sky probably won't be that blue (with the described exposure setting it will be nice and rich anyway...) if yo start pushing the WB towards 6-7000K but your subject's color will be more accurate. That's the advantage of the RAW, you just can't screw up this part of the photo. -Laszlo-

Man, Those faces are priceless!!! I would send them to the magazine with e title like "Horror of Skydiving" Did you show them something scarry? Great shot for sure! Some free style from yesterday (07-12-07) There's not too many chance to take them since a very few people doing it. Her name is Katya, she jumps at the Ranch. -Laszlo-

Nice Doug! You see, you're getting there with the flying. Staying close like that from the fast KA isn't easy, but you doing it. -Laszlo-

I use all of them! Lower end cameras don't have too much WB options though. On my VX-2000 I've been tweeking with WB but I found the auto working very well too. In production and steady light conditions I would use the manual of course. -Laszlo-

At auto settings if the light is low the pop-up flash most likely will try to come up. That's what happened inside the Casa, you tried to take a shot before the exit, but there wasn't too much light inside. PLEASE READ THE MANUAL! Try not to use auto settings. When the camera is in auto mode then it is controling it self (you had the result already) instead of you. There's a big difference when you're in control and you take the photo. Please read about photography, learn the basics (light, apeture, shutter speed, and etc...). Whitout that the best and most expensive camera will "trick" you as well. In the WB balance setting the "lighting symbol" has nothing to do with this issue. That is to set color temperature. If you take a picture of something where the dominant light is the flash then that's the recommended white balence setting to get accurate colors. Most flashes and Canon's pre set Flash WB temperature is around 7000Kelvin. On some more soficticated flashes the color temperature is adjustable. ...back to the original question. If you're using one of the creative field settings (Tv, Av, or M) the pop up flash shouldn't be a problem. I have the XT vs. XTi though. And remember every light condition and different skydive requires a different setting. There's no such a thing which works all the time. So please take your time and read some stuff about basic photgraphy (internet, book store, and etc.) so you can understend what setting will be the best at the time. The photographer takes the photo not the camera! -Laszlo-

Victor, Cool shots, deffinetly the 1st exit shot with the tandem. (IMG_6740) who took them? since you're in them...

Here's a few... One girl (the passanger) is a TM/I already the other one is working on to become one (she did it) -Laszlo- www.laszloimage.com

I do both... (2000+ TM's 3000+ camera jumps) Everything you listed about doing TM's is valid about doing video. A pro camera guy can't fall asleep any more than a TM/I, and should take just as much responsibility since he/she's just as much part of the skydive! Unfortunately the camera guy has lot more expenses equipment wise. Further more, the reason why free fall photographers don't get paid enough is very simple. This is "one on one" job. This means one single customer pays for one single video/photo shoot. In our DZ the DVD&Stills cost extra $95 per person top of the $185 tandem jump. So it's a quiet amount of money to spend at once for one individual. Out of that $95 we get $50, the slot is $20, and the DZ keeps its share $25. In a PRO world where camera people get paid way more than we do, because basically houndreds or thousands of costumers pay for the job. Imagine how many pepole buys National Geographic vs. Parachutist or how many people buys some skate boarding DVD in Wal-Mart vs. a Swoop DVD at the DZ gear store. The whole point is the costumer base is very small in the skydiving world, while the expenses to create anything costs as much (or even lot more) just like anywhere else. Also we have to be honest with ourselves. How many real photographer (have some kind of school) works in skydiving as a photographer? A vast majority of us is nothing else but a skydiver who owns some camera gear but really don't know anything about photography (I used to be one of them too!!!). If you want to make real money as a free fall photographer better to stop depending by TM videos (still a very good place to learn) and try to sell your stuff out side of the skydiving world. (like Norman Kent, DSE, Tom Sanders, and etc...) That is really really tough, requires a lot of knowlege and connections! Good luck to everybody! -Laszlo- ...at least skydiving is more fun!

Yes, pretty much everybody is doing it. I use it for everything (sealing the tape tray on my vid cameras, securing floating cables, fixing the focus ring, and etc...) and it works. I don't use duct tape thogh. -Laszlo-

You can down load Digital Photo Professional for free from Canon's web site. This is Canon's own software to work with RAW files (any digital canon model) It will do everthing what can be done with RAW format. Easy to use too. -Laszlo-

Doug, If I could see the photo it would be lot easier of course... But as you describe the angle it appears to me the camera man did something he should have been doing. That's why he's kind of mysterious "you couldn't understand" about his technique. It totally seems to me he actually stood on the wing of the KA! It's legal or right? NO! But it can be done. Of course he doesn't want to get into trouble admitting it. ...I took photos before too they can't be published because of the involvment of some crazyness or stupidity (not from me though) which would put people in a "difficult" situation afterwards. ...cool shots anyway. -Laszlo- p.s. I made sure no one can be recognized in the attached picure

For tandems I use my video camera. My Digital-8 has real press bottons so I have direct access to my fader, program AE, picture, and digital effect. Basically I keep the "time line" in my head and shoot the video according with that. I just dubb it down with the 3 source audio mixer (two music input and the original sound). Also I have pre-made leader which is pre-recorded in every 6 minutes on my tape. This way I can make the 20min call including the packing. an example: http://laszloimage.com/Tandem_10_5_06.wmv For NLE I use ULEAD's Media Studio-7 most of the time (I like it better than Adobe). I also have Avid Express Pro HD on my PC laptop. To make nice DVD's I use ULEAD's DVD Workshop-2 I have no problem using PC vs. MAC my runs perfect. (it just needs to be set up properly) -Laszlo-

I bought the "L" bracket on e-bay. It was made for some older Nikon camera. After a 1minute grindig it's a universal now; it works with both my XT and 5D. Really Right Stuff is a same idea, but more expensive. The Arca-Swiss style quick release clamp is kind of standard, the 2inch wide ones about $40 on e-bay. Also there's more holes on my home made plate with nuts glued onto the other side. So I can mount or remove stuff fast with a philips screw driver. And the whole thing is LIGHT!

I customized my FTP. I bought a 3mm thick 10”x12” carbon fiber plate on e-bay for $25. Also I cut out a major piece of the right side of the helmet, so I could mold in my flash. The whole thing looks wide (actually it is) but still doesn’t stick out to the side as far as any other side mount vid. camera. Lot of space to move things around quickly… I also use the Arca-Swiss style quick release clamps. Please see the attached pictures. -Laszlo- I can utilize the "L" bracket (missing from these pictures) on the front too if I have to...

I just have to agree with you... There's a same issue with the high performance canopies too. I'm totally on that side to have a "video rating" if the person is involved with AFF or Tandem videos because he/she part of the skydive and should be responsible just as much as the instructors. But skydiving is a very liberal activity (that's why we like it...) so it's hard to regulate it whitout killing its "magic". Unfurunatelly we cant teach and enforce common sense. -Laszlo-

I have to agree about PD's customer support. If you guys start making a lot of jumps your gear will wear out (in this case the lines first of all) so no matter what you'll need maintance. You can't beat PD in this matter. I guess the Spectre is one of the most forgiving and docile canopy, with super soft openings. But personally I like the performance too.. I made about 3,000 jumps on Stiletto 135s and 120s. They great, but as the lines are shrinking by the use the openings can get funky. I have a 120 Stiletto with DACRON-525 lines, which makes the pack volume a bit bigger, but the openings are incredible (and it dosen't lose too much either because of the extra drag). Currently I jump a Velocity-103. The openings are between 1000-1200 feet! (I bacame a dirty high puller) But I wouldn't use a cross-braced canopy if had to leave it for the packers. I always pack it for my self... Also due to the high performace I recommend this model only for those who have lots and lots and even more high performance canopy experince and skills! The power of the Velocity is great, but this can turn against its pilot quickly and hard if he/she doesn't know how to handle it. -Laszlo-

I don't have PS CS, I only have a lighteher version which doesn't have HDR. So I don't have any experince using it on PS. As I said I use the HDR feature on my Photoimpact-10 by ULEAD. -Laszlo-