monkycndo

Perris. 50 donations so far. Give it a try. You know you want to spank it Jump an Infinity

This question is also important for WSers to think about. We often have a hard time belting in because our suits cover the most common places to connect a belt. I continue to use a 2" chest strap because that hardware has a higher rating. Depending on the type of belt, I will open my suit to try and get the belt around the MLW. But fighting the belt around the suit to get to the MLW at times just can't be done. Once I do disconnect the belt, I keep both ends in my hands or sitting on my lap in case I do need to try and strap back in. At 3K, I drop the belt out of the way. Most of the time, I see folks dropping the belts back onto the floor along side the benches. As mentioned in a post above, the belts can be a pain to attach when sitting on the ground and you don't have the next jumper already sitting in your lap. Now try it in a hurry in the fully packed cabin with a bunch of WS fabric surrounding you. Since we sit behind the tandems, if they aren't going, we will either have to fight our way past them or buckle back in and ride the plane down. 50 donations so far. Give it a try. You know you want to spank it Jump an Infinity

Roger Ponce has been there each year since my first boogie in 2005. A lot of "old farts" show up just to jump with him. 50 donations so far. Give it a try. You know you want to spank it Jump an Infinity

Terry, still working on mine. Other stuff moved closer to front burner. My design does have the bracket arm that creates space away from the foot for two reasons. For WS, you need room to be able to unzip the leg wing. Sticking your hand next to a hot canister is no fun. Also, I want to be able to adjust the angle of the smoke canister so the smoke is less likely to get caught in the wing tip vortices and "smoke" the suit. I wish I could find the picture of a WS jump we did in Utah. The smoke is sucked onto the back of the leg wing and instead of a nice tight line of smoke trailing behind us, the smoke is pulled into the burble and dilutes the smoke trail. There is no way to eliminate the snag hazard, but my intent is for it to only be used on the outside of the left foot to keep it as far away as possible from a deploying PC. 50 donations so far. Give it a try. You know you want to spank it Jump an Infinity

If the mount is for gopro only, no lanyard needed. But if it is for smoke, a lanyard is a must if flying over people or property that can catch fire. Would hate to try and make a claim on demo insurance to cover burning someone's house down from a dropped M18 smoke canister. I am still refining my cut away system that is two stage. One to cut away the mount itself, the second stage to release the lanyard. I have seen some real janky smoke mounts. Everything from a bracket screwed through the bottom of a shoe to actually duct taping the canister directly to the shoe. Shudder. 50 donations so far. Give it a try. You know you want to spank it Jump an Infinity

Not sure how to prevent a wrap around the camera itself, but getting something between camera and helmet is what has prevented me from putting a still on my head. To fill in that space, consider filling the gap between helmet and camera with something like polymold or Sugru Mold it with a lip behind the camera so a line would go up/over instead of between camera and the infilled material. Secure the infill with a screw(s) from the inside of the helmet. If you change cameras, the screw can be removed and the infill taken off. 50 donations so far. Give it a try. You know you want to spank it Jump an Infinity

It looks like the attachment can be rotated. Consider rotating the canister so it points and discharges in line towards your toe. The angle shown can put smoke in the vortices of the leg wing and smoke will often be sucked onto the leg wing= smoke stained suit. My smoke bracket holds the canister even with the sole of my shoe and can adjust the angle of the smoke discharge so it is about 45 degrees away from the center line of my foot. That orientation has worked so far to get the smoke away from the suit. And a good reminder on the leash. The common reasons to cut away are canister sidewall burn through and entanglement on deployment. All smoke brackets should have a leash to prevent a still burning cut away smoke canister from possibly falling on the public. And if you have a canopy/bracket entanglement, the leash should also have some way of being jettisoned if you are dragging your main behind you and you MUST get rid of it. A still burning smoke canister stuck on a cut away main should burn out before the canopy reaches the ground. One hopes. Smoke is no joke, treat it with respect. 50 donations so far. Give it a try. You know you want to spank it Jump an Infinity

You had to wake concrete rebound hammer. Who knows what it will do now. 50 donations so far. Give it a try. You know you want to spank it Jump an Infinity

Taking several hours to start to tighten up is not that big a deal. Yes, placing the concrete on plastic does slow the hydration/initial set of the concrete, since none of the water could be absorbed by the lower surface. Often, when a vapor barrier is used, a 2" sand cushion is placed on the barrier, but it is not required. The fact that the top surface is "dusting", sounds more like the the concrete had too high a slump to begin with, and the cement to water ratio was too low and the top surface which is only sand and cement is not that strong. If it is just being used to set tile, I would take a high pressure washer (3000psi minimum) with a "turbo tip" and blast the concrete. It will eat away anything that is not solid. That should expose the aggregate which provides a good surface to set the new tile. Concrete is often considered cured at 28 days after placement. Depending on the mortar/thinset being used to set the tile, some require a minimum cure time prior to setting tile. The concrete can crack during curing and these cracks can telegraph though your new tile. 50 donations so far. Give it a try. You know you want to spank it Jump an Infinity

Saw it being jumped at Davis last year. When I asked JayMo about it just last month, he said it is still being test jumped and no date for release. I like that PD puts a lot of effort into a new design before releasing it to the public. 50 donations so far. Give it a try. You know you want to spank it Jump an Infinity

Interesting design. Wouldn't the metal base be slippery on a grassy/rocky exit point? But before a mod jumps on you, all advertising is supposed to be in the classified section, not the forums. 50 donations so far. Give it a try. You know you want to spank it Jump an Infinity

For a rock solid domestic machine, go oldschool metal machines. New plastic machines will break. There are lots of old metal machines out there which can do the job. Names like Kenmore(a Sears brand), Reliable, New Home, Domestic, DressMaker, etc. Made of all metal internal parts. Often have decorative stitches built in. Only problem is parts might be hard to find. If cheap (less then $50) and in good shape, these are good entry level machines. Quite a few folks will tell you to go Singer with one particular family of models in mind. The Singer 401 or 500 are the same machine internally with a different housing and often referred to as the Slant-o-matic. I had a 500 and liked it, but decided I wanted a commercial machine. They have lots of internal decorative stitch cams, which include the 304 and 308 zigzag stitches. Parts are available and cheap. In my neck of the woods, they can be found frequently starting around $100. There are similar models like the 403/503 that don't have the internal cams, but rely on plastic cam wheels to do the zigzag stitches. Often the model number will include a letter like "A", "G" or "W", which just indicates where it was made. If you can find a Pfaff 130, it is also a wonderful machine. Very smooth, lots of power. Straight and 304 zigzag. On average, harder to find and a bit pricier. If you have time to search, they can be found for a decent price. I found one for $30 at the flea market. But that doesn't happen often. The 130 is the baby brother of the commercial 138. If you can find one with the cam drive on the back, it will do a lot of the same decorative stitches as the Singers. But they are really hard to find and more expensive. But they do beautiful stitching. If you want a free arm machine, look for a Pfaff 332. On Pfaffs, make sure the main internal belt is in good condition. Replacement belts are expensive and can be difficult to find a perfect fit. Also look into Viking/Husqvarna machines. On the pricey side, but robust machines. Available in free arm style as well. Make sure you give them a full test before buying. Some of the models used sealed components with a grease that would harden if not used on a regular basis. I bought one for super cheap, but could not test it. The grease is like concrete. It is a paper weight until I can find the time, if ever, to go though it to clean and relube it. Good hunting. 50 donations so far. Give it a try. You know you want to spank it Jump an Infinity

I believe the only DZ is Skydive Playa, a tandem only dz. I did my first jump there and the visuals were amazing. I would love to jump there again with my on gear. 50 donations so far. Give it a try. You know you want to spank it Jump an Infinity

Thank you for posting the links about stall points. Every time I see someone say you have to be able to stall your canopy, I want to say BS. You need to know where your canopy stalls, if it does. As you posted, the Spectre has a very deep stall point, and might not stall without a wrap. I jump a canopy that you have to hold for a good 8-10 seconds in deep breaks before it sloooooowly starts to stall. And I have long arms. So please folks, don't start shortening your brake lines to get your canopy to stall, just so it can. Talk to your rigger and more importantly, the canopy manufacturer before adjusting your brake settings. 50 donations so far. Give it a try. You know you want to spank it Jump an Infinity

I agree the openings are nice on a Pilot. But have seen way too many people, mostly women, with shorter arms that just can't reach the sweet spot of the Pilot's flare power. They wonder why their landings suck. Simple, either shorten their brake lines till there is no slack in the lines, or take a wrap or two. Both options are less than optimal. For an equally nice opening and better flare, I would suggest the Safire2. Or Silhouette. Or Nitron. 50 donations so far. Give it a try. You know you want to spank it Jump an Infinity

If you have short arms, the sweet spot for a Pilot is in someone else's container. The power of the flare is DEEP in the toggle stroke. I much prefer having power throughout the flare, not just at the bottom end. 50 donations so far. Give it a try. You know you want to spank it Jump an Infinity

Actually, the archeologist will send it back to L&B and get a free replacement. 50 donations so far. Give it a try. You know you want to spank it Jump an Infinity

Internal mounting depends on how tight the helmet is and how much room you have in the helmet. You will have to turn it on and off each flight which could be a pain in the ass. The plastic helmet should not have any issues on maintaining GPS lock. I would suggest using the aluminum(aluminium) mount that bolts onto the exterior. Open you visor fully, then mount the flysight just beyond. 50 donations so far. Give it a try. You know you want to spank it Jump an Infinity

Never been a beer drinker. Prefer stuff like Mike's hard lemonade or a cider. Or a mixed tropical drink with an umbrella garnish. Come on up to LP. Lots of tradition to experience. Singing, naked rock, jello wrestling, Cunning Linguists, fire tower, poker tournament, topless Tuesday & wobbly Wednesday, and Almost sober loads. 50 donations so far. Give it a try. You know you want to spank it Jump an Infinity

Sean will be there and ready to accept bitch beer (aka-princess pop). FIFY On thing about LP, it is at 3500' and can be a bit warm. It can feel like downsizing one size of canopy. If you go, please think about what size gear you will be jumping. 50 donations so far. Give it a try. You know you want to spank it Jump an Infinity

Learn the beer rules. Skydivers are thirsty. And any advice offered here is worth what you paid for it. And have your paycheck direct deposited to the dz. This saves you time since all your money will be going there anyway. 50 donations so far. Give it a try. You know you want to spank it Jump an Infinity

Some canopies have the bridle attachment tight to the top of the canopy. Adding a bridle extension helps to get the bridle out and around the rolled canopy so it can be put in the d-bag without un-cocking the pilot chute. 50 donations so far. Give it a try. You know you want to spank it Jump an Infinity

Unsewing does take most of the time. Another option is to just cut off the exposed portion of the zipper and sew the new zipper right over the remaining tape of the original. If you use the same width of zipper. it makes it easy to sew on by just aligning the edge of the two tapes. You will see both sets of stitching. If the thread color and stitch length matches, you might not even notice. 50 donations so far. Give it a try. You know you want to spank it Jump an Infinity

Take a look at the Skylark Odyssey. It is a lot like the Stiletto and Xf. Nice openings, very responsive to toggles, flat glide and powerful flair. Price is hard to beat as well. 50 donations so far. Give it a try. You know you want to spank it Jump an Infinity

You folks are doing some nice work over there. 50 donations so far. Give it a try. You know you want to spank it Jump an Infinity