sammer
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Everything posted by sammer
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The following is from the last email Jason sent out to the B-day registrants: A condensed one-hour version of the live TV broadcast will air on the Outdoor Life Network (OLN) on November 12 from 12:30-1:30pm EST and on December 9 from 12-1pm EST...
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If I remember correctly, there is a sign advertizing property for sale that you can see in the landing area. Lots starting at 15K, I think.
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There was an identical listing on ebay about a year ago when I was shopping for my first set of gear. Either he's still trying to sell it (doubtful), or it's bullshit. Probably an old tandem harness someone's buying for $550.
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I just found this page: http://www.minute-man.com/acatalog/4_Conductor_3_5mm_Plugs_and_Jacks.html They have everything you need to build a small extension cable. And the stuff is cheap enough that I wouldn't loose too much sleep if it didn't work.
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I am considering doing just what you mentioned with my new camera set up. It is a pain in the ass for me to pull the video camera out of my FF2 everytime I want to plug into the TV at the dropzone. I have found a 4 conductor 3.5mm panel mount socket at digikey: SJ-43502PM I have not been able to find a right angle 3.5mm plug though. I am thinking of sacrificing a $15 Sony cable. Before I do, does anyone out there know of a reason why this wouldn't work? My biggest concerns are that the wires inside the sony cable might be too small to work with (I've had that happen before), or that the 4 conductor socket might not be compatible with the Sony 4 conductor plug.
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I'm certainly not qualified to answer either of your questions but I will point you to this thread over at Blinc: http://www.blincmagazine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=21575 There is some discussion there about when it is appropriate to open the flap. Looks like it depends upon the specific rig and how it is constructed. Sam
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Thanks guys. It sounds like the 290 (or 305) Troll might not be out of the question. I'll do a little more research here and at Blinc.
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I really like everything I've seen/heard about the Troll MDV canopy, but the largest size made is a 290. I'm 210 w/o gear, and I figure that would put my WL at about 0.79. Is this unreasonably high? This would be my first BASE rig, so I really have no experience to go by. I would appreciate input from anyone else jumping the Troll at similar WL. Would I be better off to look at one of the other manufacturers that offer 310 or 322 sizes? Thanks in advance, Sam
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I guess you could be right about him lying on the application form. He told me he had requested a Sabre2 150 and I tried to talk him into a 170 (remember he's coming from a 190 Spectre). Last time I heard from him he informed me that he had called them up and changed that to a Stilleto 150. I let him know what I think...but he has had an instructor/DZO tell him he'd be fine.
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I wouldn't count on them refusing to send him one. I have a friend with a few less jumps and about the same WL who has a Stiletto 150 demo on the way. He's currently on a 190 Spectre
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Don't get me wrong, the Hornet is a great canopy, but it does have a very deep control range. If you are happy with your brake lines now and you can stall it then you are there. My arms are maybe not as long...I can take a couple of wraps and still not stall mine. Getting longer risers will help. If you lengthen your risers 2" and then lengthen your brakelines by 2" you will have the 2" extra slack when on the risers, but you will have the same flare (as far as the canopy is concerned) at full extension. I would definately give that a try if you are looking for some more range. That being said, I do love my Hornet, and I think that canopy is much underated. Just don't tell mine I've been cheating on her with a Crossfire. Sam
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I have a 190 Hornet and I think I know what you are talking about. Lengthening the risers and steering lines will help. Every inch you add to the risers will increase your bottom end flare by the corresponding amount. I never could find a happy medium with mine though. If I lengthened the lines to the point where they still had slack when front risering, I would usually have to slide out the landings. That works fine until you try landing it in full glide (without speeding it up). Then it seemed like it just didn't have enough flare. Could be just my inexperience, but I have heard many other Hornet pilots say the same thing. Sam
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Check out this thread It looks like at least one manufacturer has tried that.
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OK, it sounds like you know what you're getting into. I just took another look at sonystyle.com and noticed that the HC-20 and 30 record video with 340K pixels vs. 690K for the HC-40 and PC-109. They also have a smaller CCD (1/6" vs. 1/5"). I don't know if that makes a noticable difference in picture quality or not. Do you know of anyone working on d-boxes for the 109 besides cookie? I'm kind of in the market for one right now. Sam
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I think the increased pixels are only useful for stills. From what I have gathered they all record video with 690K pixels. I have a PC-109 and I really like it, but I am not sure I wouldn't have been just as well off with one of the cheaper HC-XX models. One thing you might want to consider is availability of lenses for the 25mm threads and the lack of helmets/d-boxes for the new sony models. Sam
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I would get the zippers. The booties on my Bev Suit are a real pain in the ass to get on. I've actually ripped the leather loose twice now putting my booties on. I think the zippers would make things much easier. I also agree with diablopilot on the cordura, for the same reason he stated. They are very tough (except where the leather bottoms attach). As far as spending $ money on that suit: I think that would depend on how it looks/fits and whether or not a brand new one would be worth another $300 to you. Sam
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Just found your website last night. Those lenses are way cool. They're small enough that I don't really think snagging/hitting stuff should be an issue with them. I went ahead and placed an order for a lens and the 25mm adapter. Thanks for the help everyone.
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I'm sure these cameras were not housed in a D-Box of some sort either Actually it was. It was in a custom made helmet that pretty much covered the whole camera. It's just that the wide angle lenses have a tendency to hang out of the front of most enclosures. After I saw that I decided if I ever put a camera on my helmet I would use a clip-on lens. Maybe I've just made too big an issue of it. Is it very common for cameras to break like that?
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Yeah, now that you mention it, I do seem to remember quite a bit of tape on the clip-ons I've seen. I'm still tempted to give it a try as it might eliminate the need to buy a step up adapter for my PC-109 if it will fit. Maybe I'll see if can't borrow one this weekend and check the fit. Thanks for the input. Sam
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It's not that I can't find any screw on lenses. It's just that I have seen a couple of cameras destroyed when the screw on lens hit something and took part of the built in lens with it. I was also thinking that maybe the clip-on lens might fit on my new Sony with the 25mm threads. I have seen a few guys jumping the clip-on lenses here in Kansas, but I'm not sure if they had to modify them to make them stay on the camera or not. I think our camera guy uses one, I'll ask him this weekend.
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I was just wondering if anyone here jumps with a clip-on wide angle lens. They look like they could prevent damage to the camera should anything hit/snag the lens, but I'm just not sure how airworthy they would be. Any opinions?
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They will eventually respond. I just went through the same thing a few months back. It usually took Blas a week or two to respond to my emails. The suit showed up on time, and looked good. I wouldn't worry too much. Sam
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It was the 169 I used. I would have been 1.68 under the 149....I am a fat ass. And I will slow down. I just wanted to point out that I really thought I had a handle on it....right up until I almost broke myself. It would be an easy mistake for another newbie to make and that is why I posted it. I got lucky and I realize that now. I will now STFU and go hook my 190 back up. Sam
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Actualy, several instructors/expereinced guys told me not to fuck with a 169. "just get a 149, or you'll be bored" they told me. I think the only reason I got away with it is that I am a pretty large guy. A 170 isn't that aggressive for most people.
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I've got a W-13 and a 150 is the smallest I would want in it (I think it's made for a 170). You should probably have a rigger look at it. Being "too soft" may not really cause any problems as long as the pin is tight and the flaps maintain the correct geometry. One option that my rigger mentioned to me is putting a pillow or pad in the main pack tray. Might be worth looking into. Sam