masterrig

While attending USAPR, we were given the opportunity to make one of those nifty zippered cases like they sell in Para-Gear. In mine, I have: Aluminum closing plate Long-bar (Aluminum) 2-Maple packing paddles Rifle cleaning rod short fid (6" Aluminum) Hook for stowing lines on Navy seats 4 - 'T'-bars Awl (wood handle) Finger trapping tools (made from knitting needles) Various sewing needles 6"-Steel ruler Small spools of 'E' - thread (various colors) 2 - screwdrivers (1-Phillips, 1-flat) 2- hemostats 1-straight, 1-curved(got them from a nurse) Pliers Wire cutting pliers Needle-nose pliers Pilot chute compression strap (2-types) Pull-up cords (gutted - 550, Cypres and Spectra) Temp pins (3-types) Seam ripper Tack cord (cotton & Nylon) Sewing palm (Seldom use it) Bic - lighter Scissors (Sewing and surgical) Flagged Velcro for Free-bags Rubber bands (large and small) Extra 'gutted' 550 for closing loops Pure Silicone Cypres loop material (spool) Cypres washers Standard washers Seal Press Lead seals Most of these tools were either given to me or I made them. Each tool has it's own place... helps with that famous tool count! Chuck

Due to the economic level of the area I work in, I charge $35.00 for an Inspection and re-pack of the reserve, harness-container. I'll charge $2.00 for replacing a Cypres loop. I don't normally charge for re-sewing broken stitching on trim-tape on a closing flap, unless it's more than 5-6 broken or missing stitches or in a 'difficult' place to get to. I don't charge for re-connecting a main or for a new main closing loop. I do go through the main canopy (when it is with the 'rig') and inspect it and re-pack it for $15.00. I don't charge for changing batteries or installing Cypres. I charge $50.00 for 'retro fitting' a container for Cypres. Anything I don't charge for, I list on the bill what I did and 'NO CHARGE!'. Canopy patches are priced according to the size of the patch and location on the parachute. Generally, I'll use manufacturer's price-lists when setting costs to the customer. Though, I 'try' to make a living with my rigging, I try to keep customer costs as reasonable as I can. Jumpers do need some money for jumps! Chuck

You might look in Poynter's Parachute Manual. He gives a good description of various lines and color 'codes' As for the colors of the inner strands of I have never read or heard anything in that regard. The colored thread in the sheathing denotes the year of manufacture. You might contact National Parachute Co., they might be able to tell you. Chuck

Hey, Sparky! I have one of those! Great little machine. Pretty versatile. I've never used it for patching. Mostly for jumpsuit repairs and zig-zag stitching. I got it (used) for $75.00. I use my 31-15, for patching, making new container flaps, helmet bags, all kinds of things. When I have to sew several layers of Cordura, I use the 211-G. My problem with that one was, knotting-up at the bobbin. Once I realized that I couldn't let the wheel drop-back even the slightest, it was great! I use it for sewing fairly heavy leather, also. Chaps and chinks. Chuck

I've got a 211-G-165 Singer, compound foot machine. Took me almost 2yrs. to get the cotton pickin' thing to work right. Once I got it figured out, I can't do without it. My favorite, is still, my 31-15 Singer. They can be wonderful or frustrate the %&$@* outta ya'! Chuck

Upper thread breakage is caused by too much upper thread tension. Also, with heavier materials, you may not always get the stitch lock point in the 'middle'. Sometimes, you may only get that point just past the first layer. Try slacking-off on the upper tension a bit. Before starting any 'project', like a canopy patch or replacing trim-tape on a flap, get some scraps and check-out tension, stitch length, etc. before doing the actual project. That way, you can make any necessary adjustments without messing-up your 'real' work. When using the same sewing machine for light as well as heavy materials, making adjustments will be a constant. We all experience what you are going through when we first started or with a new machine. Hang in there, you'll get it. Just don't get in a hurry. Chuck

If, you can locate a copy of Poynter's Parachute Manual, Vol. I, the information you need is there. You might find a copy at your local library or,you might check Dan Poynter's web page or look for Para Publishing on the net. Hope, this helps. Chuck

In a discussion with Sandy Reid, that is basically what he told me. Personally, I think they are scarry. Bill Booth, has responded in an earlier thread and in Skydiving Magazine with; "If you have them (soft routings), please, get rid of them!" To me, that holds a lot of weight, coming from the man who invented the 3-Ring System! Chuck

You know Sparkey, I've asked that question and about all I could gather was, it was 'cosmetic' and a possible way of boosting sales. I spoke with Sandy Reid about them and he had no reports of any problems with his type os 'soft' routings. I saw one incident with a Javelin and when we 're-created' the incident, we observed the Type-4, the routings were made of 'bunch-up' around the release cable, making release of the main almost impossible. I've done many conversions on both Javelins and Talons, including my own. As you stated, conversions on the Talon were probably out of concern. Chuck Chuck

Wow! I've ordered several sets of 'hard' routings for the Talon and have never had a problem. Call Rigging Innovations and ask for either Sandy or Brenda Reid. Unless, the Serial Number (necessary for order) is illegible or something, there should be no problem. You can get them and give them to your rigger to install. Chuck

When I was working on my rigger certificate, I noticed a similar situation with the (reserve) instructions for the Talon, in regard to compressing the pilot-chute. The picture showed placing all the pilot-chute material outside the compressed pilot-chute (like with the Vector). The printed words stated the pilot-chute material should be placed between the coils upon compression of the spring. My instructor told me to 'go by the printed word'. Which is what I do, unless, I have a 'big' question about a situation. I then call the manufacturer for 'clarification'. Chuck

Hey, Rob! After reading your post, about The Canadian team's method of packing, I couldn't help but think; 'how simple!' I'm going to have to get that idea going at the DZ. Chuck

I've got to agree with you about the slider being 'scooped' more forward, on a Sabre. I have an 'original' Sabre-190 and get the slider more in front of the leading edge of the canopy. I fold the 4-outer cells in and next to the center cell. I bring the trailing edge around and roll it three - four times and... pack it. Getting more of the slider in front, really seems to slow-down the flow of air to the leading edge. I've shown other Sabre owners this method and they have liked the openings. Chuck

I've got to say, every manufacturer I have had the pleasure to deal with. The list is too long to mention each one. From either purchasing gear, hardware, materials, component parts, etc. I have always been met with courtesy, cheerfulness and loads of help and in-sight. Anyone out there, who has a question of any kind, for a manufacturer, don't be afraid to call them. There is no such thing as a 'dumb' question. The only 'dumb' question is the one not asked. Chuck

If, you have a Tandy Leather store near you, they carry a 'leather lacing tool', that works great on just about all line sizes as well as . It measures about 4" long and is made of brass. It is totally cylindrical in shape, pointed at one end and threaded inside the open end. If, you know a machinist, he can make you a set out of different size knitting needles, cut to proper length and threaded. If, you're a 'picker', the E (1st.) string, works real good. Just an idea. Chuck I've seen many lower brake lines finger-trapped and knotted. Like the man said, after a while, the finger-trapped end,tends to work it's way out. A good tack with 'E' thread or a rigger sewing them, works best.

As a Rigger, I've recieved many bottles over the years. Though, I don't drink, I save them, un-corked, with a label I put on the neck stating the jumpers name and date of the reserve use and his/her malfunction. I have also had one or two members of the FAA want to 'visit' my shop! I think, it's a neat idea, yet a dying tradition. I certainly don't expect anything other than payment of my bill. If, a jumper wants to do that, great! I'll add it to my collection. Chuck

Been there done that! As you said, it is good 'experience'. I have found suspension lines out of continuity on new parachutes, from the mfgr. Not very often, but, it has happened. One of them was mine! Be sure, you set the 'brakes' at the marks. I've found also, if you don't have a bar-tack machine, a 'tack' of about 4-turns with doubled 'E'-thread, just above the loop formed by finger-trapping, for the toggle works great. Sounds good, though. The first time is always the worst time! Chuck

There was a time, long ago, when you ordered a new harness-container, a packing mat, matching the rig, was included. Doesn't seem as though that is the case any longer. The carpet idea is great! I've seen many of them in use at several DZ's. Also, the carpet offers more drag and reduces the need of a weight while you are pro-packing. You might talk with your rigger and see if he couldn't possibly make one for you. Good luck! Chuck

Thank you, for your response! After several more phone calls, I was able to get some help with my 'problem' I appreciate you and all the others who helped me with this matter. Thanks, again, Chuck

You know, I think, your friend is right! I have tried all the suggestions in this thread and still, all I get are message machines! I leave messages and noone returns calls. What's the deal, with that??? Chuck

I appreciate the help. I'll try calling that number. I've given-up, leaving messages on the numbers I have. Thanks! Chuck

I understand! I have had the same problem. Thanks! Chuck

Thanks, Dave! You're really quick with the help! I appreciate it. Chuck

Anyone know how to contact Icarus or Skyworks? I have tried and tried to contact them and only get an answering machine. I need to place an order with them. Thanks, in advance for any help with this matter. Chuck

Rob, You're killin' me! Chuck