masterrig

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content

    15,592

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

Everything posted by masterrig

  1. masterrig
    I went back and re-read the original post in this thread. After doing so, I realized, it is rather 'pointed' at 'new riggers'. You've made a good point. Looks as though, as mentioned in this thread, people do make mistakes. I obviously read it too quickly. I appreciate your pointing it out to me. Thanks! Chuck
  2. masterrig
    I too, have found Cypres' 'way' out of date. I have talked with the last rigger who worked on the rig in question and had a 'good' conversation with him. I also informed the owner, who was quite up-set about it. One point in the situation like this is, if, something were to happen in the mean-time and the FAA got involved, they really 'frown' on out-of-date AAD's. Apologies don't hold-up in court. From reading the other posts in this thread, I don't feel you are pointing a finger, necessarily at 'new' riggers. I took it as a 'wake-up' call to all of us to be more thorough in our work. I agree also, it doesn't take long at all to look at date and etc. on AAD's. Also, as mentioned in this thread, it's not just the new-comers to this profession who can make a mistake. After all, we are all human and vulnerable to error. For what it's worth. chuck
  3. masterrig
    Very good! Good choice of clamps and placement on the trailing edge. Stretched-out nicely. Neatly done. I'll give it a '10'! As Terry mentioned, if you could place a fan to circulate the air around it, that would help. Nice job! Chuck
  4. masterrig
    Personally, I wouldn't mess with it. You might call Sunpath Products and see what they have to say about it. You could send it to them and have them put a new 'mid-flap' on it. I just would not recommend trying to remove the marker ink. Chuck
  5. masterrig
    I worked under a rigger like that! Took me 3-yrs. (long story) and I have no idea how many week-end trips to Abilene. I went for my Masters at Sandy Reid's class in Eloy. Very intense and long days. I learned a great deal. Sandy is a real 'stickler' for detail and doesn't miss a trick. I feel, he has an excellent program. Seems as though, from what I've heard, all the schools are good. Depends on which one is closest and affordable. Chuck
  6. masterrig
    If, you could manage it at sometime, look into a good used Singer: 31-15. You should be able to find one for around $200... complete! They are great for patching and jumpsuit repairs or even making jumpsuits. Keep a 31-15 oiled and you can't kill 'em. They are strictly a straight stitch machine, though. Parts are readily available, also, through various outlets. Chuck
  7. masterrig
    I'm not familiar with the machine you purchased, but, with a little 'tinkering', I made my first throw-out pilot-chute and (main) D-bag using a home sewing machine and it worked quite well, using 'E' thread. As long as you don't try to 'over-work' it, it should work for you. Chuck
  8. masterrig
    With all your enthusiasm... git after it! Check into one of the rigging schools, like Dave DeWolf's or Sandy Reids. There is also one in Indiana and Missouri and other places. They may 'seem' expensive, but, they are well worth it. The best of luck to you! Chuck
  9. masterrig
    In the 'notions' department of any good fabric store (Minnesota Fabrics, etc) They should have a thread-stand (some assembly required) made by 'Dritz'. At the top, is a small loop for a thread guide. In that loop, I hung a small ring (smallest ring on the 3-ring system) to run the thread through. The stand will hold a large spool of thread, down to a small spool, quite well. Best part is... they are inexpensive. Chuck
  10. masterrig
    Here, here! Well said! Chuck
  11. masterrig
    10-4! Our training to get that rigger's 'ticket' involved un-tangling lines and checking line-continuity... it's all part of the job. I agree with what you said. We are not there to question how it got that way but, to make sure it is correct and airworthy when the job is done. It's all good! Chuck
  12. masterrig
    In each owner's manual for each parachute, harness-container or Poynter's Parachute Manual, there is information for removing stains of all kinds. A telephone call or e-mail to the manufacturer, if you don't have the manuals will help, a great deal. It beats making a 'costly' error. Chuck
  13. masterrig
    Oh, good grief! No, no, the beer is for AFTER the work! But, you knew that... I was testing you! Chuck
  14. masterrig
    When you take it all to your rigger, for 'assembly', inspection and re-pack... take a LOT of beer! Seriously, when you do take it to your rigger, ask if you can watch! That, should be a good learning experience and should give yousome in-sight as to a rigger's work. Chuck
  15. masterrig
    According to Poynter's PPM, soak the stain in cold clear water (distilled works) and blot with clean dry cloths (paper towels). Be sure the cloths are clean and dry with each blotting. Don't 'wring-out' the material. Just treat the affected areas. I'm not so sure about hydrogen peroxide. I haven't seen that recommended for use on Nylon. I've removed many blood stains this way and have gotten them out... completely. Suspend the canopy and let air dry, out of sun-light. The cold, clear water should not 'disturb' the porosity or any 'coatings' on the fabric. Chuck
  16. masterrig
    ... bein' in the relative wind? Priceless! Chuck
  17. masterrig
    There ya' go! That'll work! Ive been told that the hardware (the 'teeth) have been re-configured for type-8 Nylon webbing on newer hardware. Also, that, that type hardware works better with Type - 13 Nylon webbing, like that used on the Racer harness. I've heard good things about the two-piece hardware like that found on the new Odyssey. Also, the 'finish' has a lot to do with it also. Elastic keepers are cheap! Chuck
  18. masterrig
    Even a 2nd. elastic keeper will help a lot. I do like Rob suggested, with one keeper on the 'S'-folded webbing and a 2nd. elastic keeper above the 'S'-fold. I've noticed little or no slippage. Chuck
  19. masterrig
    You might call and ask the folks at D.J. & Associates of Fort Smith, Arkansas they should be able to help you. They are on the net. Not being a metalurgist, I too was 'parroting' what I've been told Chuck
  20. masterrig
    Also, besides being shiny and stronger, Stainless Steel (high grade) does not rust or corrode as will standard steel. Both type hardware is 'drop - forged' rather than molded. I would think, high carbon steel would tend to be 'brittle' and would rust and or corrode. Hope, this helps. Chuck
  21. masterrig
    I haven't done the 'alternate' method for the Cypres loop on a routine basis, but, I have done it to shorten the loop just enough to get the right tension on the pilot-chute. Works rather well. Chuck
  22. masterrig
    Hey, Rob! I really had to laugh at what you said! How true, how true! As a matter of fact, I just had to tell a pilot, about an hour ago that I would not be able to pack his rig, due to it's age (30yrs.) After hearing the 30-yr history of the rig, he flatly stated that he understood, thanked me for being straight-up with him and asked me where he could get another one. I'm still a little woozy... too easy! Sometimes, we get lucky! Chuck
  23. masterrig
    My wife got me the 'Rigger's Source Book' for Christmas, several years ago. It's been invaluable to me. I also check up-dates on the web and make copies of anything new. There is still a lot of that 'old stuff' out there... especially among pilots. Chuck
  24. masterrig
    Rags Raghanti, puts-on a great class on patching parachutes and canopy repair. The man is amazing! I too, would like to see Sandy Reid hold his class on 'Harness Repair'. At Symposium '99, in San diego, he was supposed to have done a class, but, something went South, and the class was never scheduled. I would imagine, some areas could get rather involved and probably why they aren't scheduled!? Chuck
  25. masterrig
    It was the soft ends, with the grommet for the loop to pass through. This, is where the Type - 4 webbing would 'bunch-up' when the release handle was pulled. There-in, lie the problem. Rigging Innovations had a length of curved plastic tube routing for the cable to pass through, near the top of the reserve pack tray. This was meant to 'ease' the pull. The cut-away I witnessed was on a Javelin. As for how many other harness-containers had soft routings, I don't know the answer for that. Chuck