captain_stan

***So they are BOTH a problem and both need to be addressed. Addressed by exactly whom? In the US, mfrs are responsible for their own FAA approved equipment. Since AADs aren't FAA approved, who are you implying is negligent here? The H/C mfrs have drawn a line when an AAD can disable the reserve handle on their rig. So far, Argus is unique in that respect and has been so addressed. DZOs, aircraft owners, and individual riggers are free to exclude the use of specific equipment anytime, but it's unreasonable to expect H/C mfrs to police the entire industry for the function of equipment other than their own. And yet in the US, this group has taken meaningful action in this exceptional case. I don't understand who you are blaming and for what.

That would be all AAD's currently on the market, wouldn't it? Yes, but Argus has distinguised itself by creating the probability of locking the reserve flaps closed with a cutter that has become siezed onto the loop. Does anyone not see this as being an even bigger problem than a premature activation? (edit for DZ.com software glitch)

Bally Ribbon Mills in PA manufactures a variety of Kevlar webbing. Although they are not a "by-the-yard" retail outlet, they sell leftover roll-ends to the public. If you do your own research and give them a mil-spec # by phone or email, they can usually offer an odd-length remnant to suit your needs. (610) 845-2211 Lois at X-3012 has helped me. http://www.ballyribbon.com/ I'm not familiar with the mesh that you need, but I've used Para-Gear's #W9155 "high-drag netting" for PC construction and it looks like the matl. used in some tandem drogues. BTW, have you asked UPT for these matls? I've usually had good experience with this kind of support from mfrs. Blue skies

That would be a good question to ask the manufacturer. BTW, is this the same guy who slams people for not doing a search? LOL (Sorry, I couldn't resist) edited for spelling

I found this distributor when searching for fabric to re-cover a personnel-carrying kite. http://www.sailrite.com/Categories/Dacron-Sailcloth I get good enough service when ordering materials from them. I'm not familiar with the fabric you specify or if there is an equivelant. And you'll have to check on their minumum order policy.

I'd say that your experience with goat shit is every bit as good as your expereince with Sabres. What you call "tricks" are establised packing practices. You might as well say that pro-packing is a "trick" or that stowing the brakes is a "trick."

Clearly the best answer in this thread. I've successfully used this technique for years on Sabres and Monarchs. I hope this is part of every pack-job for every ram-air canopy. A pocket- or domed-slider will eliminate the need for special packing techniques and is cheaper than a reline. Ultimately, the more-elastic Dacron lines will also yield some benefit but will add to pack volume. edited to add: Increased rolling of the tail will also soften the openings. Experience will dictate how much is appropriate.

Not necessarily, and these are rig-specific. LOL

I missed that part. I did however read that a guy wanted to learn more about suspension line choices and line replacement technique before making a decision on corrective action to be taken.

Except for the six bartacks that attach the outer suspension lines to the stabilizers.

Does that fall under "it can serve as a checklist of skills you need to develop" ? Is there an echo in here?

Is that a direct order, sir? He doesn't need a license to buy and jump his own gear. Some of my students have done so. I think that falls under OP's "learning as much as i can," which has nothing to do with an A license to carry in your pocket. Lighten-up! Not everyone is as driven to achieve. Some will perform better, learn more, and have more fun if they can just progress at their own pace. CS

You answered your own question. When you reach a point at which you need an A license to keep "having a blast," you can bear down & complete any requirements, or maybe you'll already be qualified by then. In the meantime, that proficiency card thing is a good idea. It can document some accomplishments that you are probably achieving now and it can serve as a checklist of skills you need to develop for that "A." If you're not using the card, you need to keep a detailed log so this information can be transferred later to the card. CS

Yeah, ask an experienced rigger to inspect it. He may find damage of which you and your friend are totally unaware. I see this on a regular basis. Yet! When you send out a canopy for reline, that rigger or mfr. may determine that it needs patching before it can be relined, and at an additional cost of course. BTW, as we speak I'm waiting for UPS to deliver a used Monarch 135 that I just bought. This is a similar canopy to the old Sabre. With an advertised 47 jumps on it, I expect it to look like new. The price I paid? $450. I don't see how the Sabre would have much more value even with fresh lines. That may give you an idea of the market for these older-generation canopies. There are still a few of us who like to have a quick-opening, highly stable, square ZP 9-cell available for certain jumps. And that Sabre may be a good fit in your progression to a smaller canopy. Please get some good advice on the suitibility of this choice. CS

Me too. The design of my Javelin lets me do so without opening the pin-cover flap.

Without actually inspecting it, I'm inclined to agree with your rigger. Yes, a number of times that were rather minor (cosmetic in nature) and caused no problems. If a stain is non-distructive, I usually leave it alone; you'll be risking damage to the fabric by trying to remove it. CS

BINGO. However when I am asked to sign a logbook, I make sure to include my D license # behind at least one of my signatures, just in case it's ever scrutinized. That way, if any USPA official ever wants to verify, they can do so more easily. Not required per qoute from SIM, but a nice courtesy anyway. For additional signatures in the same logbook, I may use any other title I hold, whether it's a USPA-issued # or not. BTW, I always follow my signature w/ "I-(current year)" if a skill-verification is needed for a license or rating, as for an accuracy landing, etc. The USPA has requested this practice from instructional rating holders.

There is no single correct answer, but here are some considerations: 1) What looks impressive to other skydivers will not necessarily please the spectators or sponsor ($$). I have heard specator complaints that the skydivers came in "too fast," but never "too slow." 2) Nothing trumps a safe stand-up right where you are expected to land. 3) That sport main which lands you on-target everyday at the DZ might not have the flight envelope to make it over those high obstacles and come in steep onto a landing area, even if it looks pretty big. 4) If you choose a canopy specifically for demos, make sure you jump it often enough to be very proficient. Flying a much bigger canopy can be challenging if you're not current. There are some demos I will not perform because I can't justify the time and cost of currency with a true accuracy canopy for the few times I really need one. 5) If you jump a conservative W/L and plan to land in a generous-size, open area, your everyday sport main still might be a good choice because of currency and proficiency. Whatever you choose to jump, be aware of your own limitations and those of your equipment.

Next time you're sittin' by a guy wearing a Racer, ask him if he wants a reserve pin check. And dude, you guys are slappin' way to hard if you're breaking flap stiffners. My experience is that these are more often damaged from repeated, unnecessary opening and closing by clumsy idiots.

This is absolutely correct. I'll add that you also need permission if the aiport has a control tower, but in that case, without permission you wouldn't be allowed to jump over it under any circumstances--not even with the 2000' traffic clearance. I think you are reading it exactly the way it is written; others are adding their own assumptions. No person may conduct a parachute operation, and no pilot in command of an aircraft may allow a parachute operation to be conducted from that aircraft, over or onto any airport unless— The key word here is "unless," which permits a list of exceptions: (a) For airports with an operating control tower: (1) [unless] Prior approval has been obtained from the management of the airport to conduct parachute operations over or on that airport. Simple enough--if you have permission, there's no FAR violation. No person may conduct a parachute operation, and no pilot in command of an aircraft may allow a parachute operation to be conducted from that aircraft, over or onto any airport unless— (b) For airports without an operating control tower, [unless] prior approval has been obtained from the management of the airport to conduct parachute operations over or on that airport. Simple enough--if you have permission, there's no FAR violation. After specifying the circumstances where permission is required, the FAA goes on to clarify another exception that has additional requirements attached: (c) [unless] A parachutist may drift over that airport (the one without a control tower) with a fully deployed and properly functioning parachute if the parachutist is at least 2,000 feet above that airport’s traffic pattern, and avoids creating a hazard to air traffic or to persons and property on the ground. This does not say "is required," but says that he or she clearly "may." Therefore you can be assured that if you maintain the 2000' clearance above the traffic pattern, you are not in violation even if you don't have permission. And those who opperate with permission (established DZs) are not required to maintain such clearance. Every public-airport DZ where I have ever jumped would be in violation if this was a requirement, because the traffic pattern covers such a broad area that it would be impossible to land on the airport without punching it. This section clarifies that if you observe the 2000' clearance requirement, you can fly over (but not land on) an uncontrolled airport where you have no permission. This has been a factor at rural airports that have tried to exclude skydivers. In that case we lift-off from the airport and legally land nearby on private property, even if we overfly the traffic pattern. It is also a factor in doing a demo near an uncontrolled airport. The FAA has clarified that we don't need permission to overfly if we maintain traffic clearance and don't land there.

Overheard in airplane: "Hey Stan, you want a gear check?" "Why, is a flap open?" "Nope" "Is the bridle hangin' out?" "Nope" "Thanks for the gear check!" Explanation: I have enough people trying to kill me outside the airplane without someone trying to do it before exit.

Are you bragging or complaining? edited to add: Or is this just an advisory to future tourists?

Come back and read these words in another 10 years or so. If you last that long, maybe you'll begin to understand the value of welcoming others into this sport with a more supportive demeanor. My greatest personal challenge in maintaining interest in skydiving is trying to ignore those with your type of elitist attitude, knowing the harm this does to our sport.

I have to conclude the same. Based only on my experience, this canopy peforms poorly, but I have read reviews by those who had better results. I test-jumped a very nice, low-mileage Jonathon 120 loaded at 1.5, which did everything well except landing. Even though the lines were good and the toggles properly adjusted, it gave a one-stage flare with almost no surf. It landed more like a 7-cell, requiring good timing and an aggressive stab--not much fun to fly. By comparison, my old-school Sabre landed way better at the same W/L, making the Jonathon a big disappointment. If you're tempted to invest in a Jonathon to jump later on, ask a more-experienced friend to test-jump it for you. I think that's the only way to make sure you're not buying that "wind sock" or "wall hanging" you mentioned.

After removing the set screw, grab the die around it's circumference with a pair of pliers and rotate it back and forth maybe 1/4 turn in each direction both clockwise and counter-clockwise. The use of an adhesive, as mentioned above, may be unlikely. But if it still won't budge, a little heat from a heat gun may soften the adhesive and/or expand the parts for easier removal. Don't burn yourself or overheat the tool. edited to add: Or use a pin punch and hammer to carefully drive out the die by tapping on its stem. Depending on which half of the die set you're removing, you might have to disassemble the press tool. When installing your new die, you may need to pollish the die's stem with fine emory cloth and/or clean the tool's corresponding socket for a nice fit in case it needs to be removed later.