degeneration

This canopy is going to mess up people's shorthand writing of the Crossfire 1, 2 & 3 and lead to loads of confusion! On the FB for sale pages, always see people selling their xfire... in a while the first response will be "is it an xfire1, xfire2, xfire3, or x-fire?" Too similar names, but then they have to be when it is aiming to ride on the success of the crossfire 2! Looks nice though. Sky Switches - Affordable stills camera tongue switches and conversion adaptors, supporting various brands of camera (Canon, Sony, Nikon, Panasonic).

I get a blank page when I go to the link... Using chrome. Sky Switches - Affordable stills camera tongue switches and conversion adaptors, supporting various brands of camera (Canon, Sony, Nikon, Panasonic).

https://www.facebook.com/TheJumpShopLtd/videos/1234407213342139/ That should be a link to the video I saw. Hopefully it will work. Makes the Jav Odyssey look a bit more like a Wings (based on a very quick glimpse). Sky Switches - Affordable stills camera tongue switches and conversion adaptors, supporting various brands of camera (Canon, Sony, Nikon, Panasonic).

Saw in a video that sunpath have made a javelin with an uptuck main flap instead of their usual downtuck flap. Sky Switches - Affordable stills camera tongue switches and conversion adaptors, supporting various brands of camera (Canon, Sony, Nikon, Panasonic).

There was a kickstarter a while back for an attachment for a gopro that allowed various function like visual indicator and tongue switch. Can't remember the name of it to provide a link, and not sure if it got funded or not... GoHawk, from POA labs. that was it.http://www.poalabs.com/ Sky Switches - Affordable stills camera tongue switches and conversion adaptors, supporting various brands of camera (Canon, Sony, Nikon, Panasonic).

All beta testing versions will be done on 2.5mm cables, as they are considerably cheaper than multi-terminal connectors. Once I've got a design that I'm happy with from the functionality and aesthetic point of view, then I'll roll it out to other connectors. If you can test with a 2.5mm connector, I'll be in touch with you if there's another round of testing. Sky Switches - Affordable stills camera tongue switches and conversion adaptors, supporting various brands of camera (Canon, Sony, Nikon, Panasonic).

Think he was meaning right angle at the switch end, not the connector end.

Got someone. Thanks for the interest. There may be more test switches at a later point, we'll see. Sky Switches - Affordable stills camera tongue switches and conversion adaptors, supporting various brands of camera (Canon, Sony, Nikon, Panasonic).

And I've just sent you an email with your tracking number. On a different note, as stated in some of the posts above, I am trying out a few ideas for the switch having a right angle at the mouth part. I've already sent three to the OP of this thread for feedback and suggestions, but would also like a another opinion on them. So I'm looking for someone who would be willing to try out two different switches. Both do exactly the same thing, but are made differently, and have different aesthetics. All I ask is you pay the actual shipping cost to get them to you, otherwise they are free. I would also like whoever wants them to at least frequently jump camera so I can get timely feedback from not just trying out on the ground, but actual air use. Familiarity with my current design wouldn't do any harm for a comparison either. They have a 2.5mm connector, so are either good for Canon cameras, or for any other camera with a suitable 2.5mm adaptor. Anyone with an appropriate camera fit the bill and willing to give them a try, then give me some feedback?

Man this is fucking hilarious!!! Don't think people were concerned too much with the flare potential of the canopy. It's not the canopy that's the issue so much, it's the pilot under the canopy. And you may not see what the fuss is about... yet. On the assumption you're a 5 or so jumps on average a weekend sort of person, for the DGIT I'm going to go for 25th February. Have fun on it! Sky Switches - Affordable stills camera tongue switches and conversion adaptors, supporting various brands of camera (Canon, Sony, Nikon, Panasonic).

Straight from PD... D. It is not necessary to heavily load a high performance canopy to make it fly and land correctly. This is a common misconception even with many experts. If a person’s canopy is going the speed they are comfortable with, then that should be fine. If they’re not getting good landings on a properly designed canopy flown at a lower wing loading, they’re probably not flaring it correctly. http://www.performancedesigns.com/docs/wingload.pdf It's an Icarus canopy not PD, with a different nose design. I'm not a rigger, but I see a response to this has already been given. Would it make you feel better about the situation if you learned I have 3 hours in the tunnel? I'm stable during deployment. But I get what you're saying and I see how a poor body position could be more damaging on a Xfire versus a Nav (the student canopy I started on). No. It really won't make me feel any better at all. Here's my really bad advice: Maybe you should just go an jump it. Maybe you'll be fine. Maybe you won't. Maybe if you are not fine, you'll get out of it with only minor injuries, get your wake up call, look back with hindsight and see your bad choices, then move forward with better choices. Maybe you won't. Maybe you'll get in a situation that you have no idea how to deal with, or think you do know how to deal with, but actually don't, and maybe you'll be seriously injured or die. Is it worth the risk? And from my own experience with this - I've been learning to swoop. Took courses, done Flight 1 100 and 200 series stuff. Was having fun practicing and really enjoying it. Didn't jump for four months, and on my first jump back (19th Dec.) I thought I could do exactly what I had been doing on my previous jumps. I was wrong. I hit the ground hard and was very lucky to not break my legs. PCL damage in my right knee, still waiting on the MRI, but that would appear to be the worst of it. I can still walk. For that I know I'm lucky. I immediately knew and could see all my bad decisions that day. I'm not likely to be jumping for at least another four months now due to this injury. I know my currency isn't going to improve over the next few years, so now with glorious hindsight, I'm selling my smallest rig which I jumped on that day and will be upsizing and no longer attempting swoops until I'm current again and have had more coaching. Don't wait till your hurt to make the right decision. Sky Switches - Affordable stills camera tongue switches and conversion adaptors, supporting various brands of camera (Canon, Sony, Nikon, Panasonic).

Fully ellipticals are just WAAAY more responsive in all regards, especially compared to a Spectre. Openings - they are more high performance too. Admittedly I've no idea how a xfire opens at a 1.2WL, but all full ellipticals I've jumped have danced around a lot, requiring considerably more care in all regards from tossing the PC until its open and stable above your head. Bad body position probably wasn't an issue under a 170 spectre, it may be a notable one under a 149 xfire. IIRC an xfire is only recommended from a 1.4WL, which doesn't mean you should get a smaller one so you hit the 1.4, but that the canopy probably won't fly too well at a 1.2WL. It may not keep the pressurisation in the cells under turbulence, or possibly many other "it may not" type things. The posts above have been far more considerate, reasonable and informative than I was expecting to see from a post like this on here, and I'm sure the fire is coming soon - queue the MJ memes - but at 26 jumps you really don't know much at all about any canopy or canopy flight in general. Theory maybe, practice pretty much zero. After passing a driving test you don't then drive a sports car at 30mph for your daily drive. Don't do the same with your parachute. Get the right tool for the job, and a 1.2WL xfire2 especially at 26 jumps, is not the right tool for you. My opinion anyway. Others may vary. Sky Switches - Affordable stills camera tongue switches and conversion adaptors, supporting various brands of camera (Canon, Sony, Nikon, Panasonic).

You're recommending something that doesn't work properly/correctly/accurately? Although the difference in measurement between it and your alti (which is what I'm guessing you are comparing its beep tones to) could be due to the difference in location on your body and therefore difference in pressure in those locations. Or if you are comparing it to an analogue alti, the lack of accuracy in the analogue. OR, the solo2 is actually beeping at the correct altitudes, and it is your other alti that's wrong? Sky Switches - Affordable stills camera tongue switches and conversion adaptors, supporting various brands of camera (Canon, Sony, Nikon, Panasonic).

Bit of both. Personally I don't think getting a customer to replace some protective cover is an acceptable approach, and isn't something I'd want to do. I'd also want any switch I buy/make to last more than 6 months. I hope mine do in general. For bite switches I tried, the thinner walled cover wears away too quickly. The thicker walled stuff I tried was much tougher, but still cracked too readily. It was also extremely bulky. I don't think shrink tubing is the way forward for bite switches. Whichever way it is covered, there still has to be enough protection for the soldering at the switch contacts. I think repeated chomping on the switches I make, even with the cover over the soldered parts, is likely to cause an issue there. A durable, thin rubber would be best, and probably a different microswitch shape/type. Maybe one day I'll try out a few ideas I have if I can find the bits I'd want, but it's not on my to do list in the short term. Conceptus already do a good bite switch, so whatever I would do would have to be able to be done at a price point notably cheaper than theirs to make it worthwhile. Sky Switches - Affordable stills camera tongue switches and conversion adaptors, supporting various brands of camera (Canon, Sony, Nikon, Panasonic).

I'm looking into finding appropriate tubing that I could do this with - most likely plastic, as I don't have metal working tools. Have got some things on order to experiment with once they arrive. The metal wire approach is interesting, and not one I had thought of, so will definitely experiment with that. That would potentially also solve left/right routing issue as if the metal wire is firm, but pliable, the user could bend to the side of their choice... I like it. If I end up offering a right angle option, and I go with the wire approach, I'll send you one as a freebie as a thanks for suggesting it! I played around with that a year or so ago, to add a bite switch option, but all the materials I tried didn't stand up to enough abuse to make them reliable or were too bulky for use. Since then, making a bite option has been put on hold. Kids and life in general don't offer me much time to play around! Sky Switches - Affordable stills camera tongue switches and conversion adaptors, supporting various brands of camera (Canon, Sony, Nikon, Panasonic).

Happy with nitpicking and happy to answer questions! Not sure flipping switch over would work, as then then tongue would be pressing on the back of the switch, and not the side with the actual button on it. That would almost certainly result in the button not being pressed as easily, if at all. http://skyswitches.com/img/switch-side.jpg The above is a pic of my switches from the side. The ridge on the back is deliberate for two reasons 1) to protect the soldering underneath, and 2) to allow those that use the switch as a "gentle nibble" switch (not a bite switch!) to know when their teeth are aligned over the centre of the switch part. Having your tooth up against the ridge should mean your opposing tooth is over the button for gentle presses using your teeth. If you pressed on the back with your tongue, I don't think it is likely that the front will receive enough pressure to activate the button. I do have an idea for a reversible switch at the moment, which I'm planning on making very soon. Not sure whether it'll actually work or whether added bulk will make it too uncomfortable, but I'll have a play around and see. That and looking into a right angle option are my plans for over the xmas period, then if they are decently usable, I'll see where it goes from there. Sky Switches - Affordable stills camera tongue switches and conversion adaptors, supporting various brands of camera (Canon, Sony, Nikon, Panasonic).

At the moment, I don't make a right angle at the switch end of things, so wouldn't be able to modify one just now unfortunately. All my right angles are in the connector. This is because: i) I don't have the bits to make a right angle at the switch end at the moment ii) I've not done any testing to find suitable raw parts to make a decent right angle at the switch end; and iii) originally when I started making switches it was a deliberate choice to not have right angle at the switch end, this was because I didn't want to presume which side of the helmet people route their switch from. Having a right angle with the way the actual switch part is made would restrict routing to it coming from one side only. However, the OP isn't the first person to comment saying they'd like the right angle up at the mouth, so I will look into what I can get and do to make it like that, and will potentially make this an option in the future, if I can make one that is acceptable in quality. Sky Switches - Affordable stills camera tongue switches and conversion adaptors, supporting various brands of camera (Canon, Sony, Nikon, Panasonic).

Really? Maybe I've missed something, but not everyone wants to start doing HP landings. Some not ever, some not within a few hundred jumps. Some wouldn't even recommend starting to learn how to do them before 500 jumps or so... Bored at work, had to comment. Sky Switches - Affordable stills camera tongue switches and conversion adaptors, supporting various brands of camera (Canon, Sony, Nikon, Panasonic).

Did you leave it two minutes before putting the new batteries in? It's some timeframe like that that you are supposed to leave it once the old ones are out according to the manual... BUT, my battery icon has been flashing for probably over a year now (admittedly that's only been circa 70 jumps in that time...) Sky Switches - Affordable stills camera tongue switches and conversion adaptors, supporting various brands of camera (Canon, Sony, Nikon, Panasonic).

It seems that it is compatible. https://www.sony.net/Products/actioncam/common/img/support/LVR/list_of_Compatibilty_Chart_lvr2.pdf Interesting. Seems you can do everything on the RM-LV2 on these cameras that you could on the AS200 for example, EXCEPT change the steadyshot settings... So unless the BOSS is on always, seems strange you can't toggle it on/off with the old remote. Sky Switches - Affordable stills camera tongue switches and conversion adaptors, supporting various brands of camera (Canon, Sony, Nikon, Panasonic).

I've made quite a few Sony multi-terminal (the one that looks like the micro-usb) connector right angle cables for people to use with a blow switch with the Sony cameras, so I know for certain that there are people out there using them. I made them a low profile right angled multi-terminal connector to plug into the Sony camera, with whatever length of cable they want, going into the two wires to connect to the terminals of the blow switch. The people I've made them for have added the crimping/connecting pieces for the blow controller onto the wires of my cable, as I've never seen or used a blow switch before so am not sure what bits are required to connect to the controller, and so far I've not had anyone come back to me saying it hasn't worked. But it would appear that it is certainly possible to use a blow switch with the Sony mirrorless range. I also make the Sony to 2.5mm adaptor, at an extremely competitive price, if you decide to give that option a try. Sky Switches - Affordable stills camera tongue switches and conversion adaptors, supporting various brands of camera (Canon, Sony, Nikon, Panasonic).

If the Nikon camera in question uses the MC-DC2 connector then I know some of the brands above make switches directly for that camera, so no splicing cables required on your part. I know first hand that Sky Switches (i.e. me) make switches using the Nikon MC-DC2 connector, or adaptors for using the MC-DC2 connector with a 2.5mm switch. Sky Switches - Affordable stills camera tongue switches and conversion adaptors, supporting various brands of camera (Canon, Sony, Nikon, Panasonic).

If you can pick up any of the Sony Alpha mirrorless range in the "inexpensive" bracket, then they are good ones to go for. Small, compact, great quality. Otherwise, any Canon dslr from the last quite a few years will likely do the trick. Switches - choose your preferred type: tongue, bite or blow. Several brands to choose from, the very common and well known Conceptus ones (tongue or bite), or you can get other ones from other people like Sky Switches (tongue), or Exit Equipment, or Ultimate Blow Switch, to name but a few. Prices I'm sure will differ between each brand/type. If you go with a non-Canon camera, and a Conceptus switch, then you'll need an adapter to convert the switch's connector to your camera's connector, as Conceptus ones only come in 2.5mm. Again, the likes of Sky Switches make those adaptors. Can't comment on lens, other than I know a lot of people use a 15 or 16mm "pancake" lens with the Sony alphas range... Sky Switches - Affordable stills camera tongue switches and conversion adaptors, supporting various brands of camera (Canon, Sony, Nikon, Panasonic).

Crossfire 2 would not be a good choice for all the reasons above, PLUS it is really meant to be loaded at 1.4 or more I gather, as below that it doesn't have as good flight characteristics (from what I've read). A lot of guidance on WL is that you should have about 400 jumps before you start loading a canopy at 1.4... I gather from your profile info, if correct, that you don't quite have that number of jumps yet. Sky Switches - Affordable stills camera tongue switches and conversion adaptors, supporting various brands of camera (Canon, Sony, Nikon, Panasonic).

Not sure I quite understand/get your "discount/premium to average" bit. Looking at some of the figures I think they may be wrong. For example Curv, only looking at the normalised for both figure. It costs $2549, and the average is $2554, which you then state is -4.2%. Think it is actually -0.19%. I get the Icon to be -6.6%, VSE +10.6%, the Wing is more expensive than average in the normalised for both, yet you have it as -1.9%... think it should be +2.2%. Jav +3.4%, Mirage -1.3%, Vector -8.0%. I see wrong percentage figures on the normalised for articulation row as well. The first two rows appear correct. Sky Switches - Affordable stills camera tongue switches and conversion adaptors, supporting various brands of camera (Canon, Sony, Nikon, Panasonic).