Zee

Never ridden one but I've talked to quite a few guys who own them and it's always been a good review. If you really want to find out the good, the bad, and the ugly, join a Vicory forum and do a search for common problems etc.....I just did the same thing before I picked up my new G35. Action©Sports

I have a Canon MP600 for both pictures and regular document work. It has a 5 cartridge system ($15 each) and it produces very nice prints - I use Canon paper with it and the results are pretty impressive. It's not that expensive and it has a built in scanner. The only problem I've had is that it sometimes doesn't recognize a new print cartridge and gives you an error. The only way to clear it is to install a new one..... Action©Sports

Wow! My TRV30 was worth a whopping 25 bones . Think I'll keep it as a backup.... Action©Sports

Absolutely - however, for landing shots she's going to want a good high shutter speed, almost certainly over 1/800, so hand shake isn't going to be a problem - I'd still recommend the 50mm f/1.8 for $75, though... That's a bit fast if you want some nice motion blur in the background though. A good trick for smooth motion blur is to shoot at 1/speed of whatever you're shooting. Say a shutter speed of 1/125 for 125mph etc....It takes a pretty steady hand (a monopod certainly helps too) to pull it off though. But that is nice sharp lens in any case. Action©Sports

Was just looking at a used 20D with lenses and other accessories. They were asking $1400. As a photography beginner and broke college student I really can't justify spending that much on a camera. A nice lens is in the plans for next semesters financial aid check. Sounds like a good place to start. If you can find a used 20D with a decent stock lens for $700, grab it! To be perfectly honest, an XT would do perfectly well for what you're looking for and should fall well within your budget. Action©Sports

Nice work, Dave! Those are some very nice shots. And you are correct, it's perfectly possible to take good shots with a kit lens but, once you try a really nice quality piece of glass you'll instantly know where that extra money went. One thing people should understand before dropping the big bucks on a IS or VR type lens is that Image Stabilization does absolutely nothing for you when shooting fast moving subjects at shorter focal lenghts. It certainly helps reduce camera shake in low light situations and at focal lengths beyond 200mm because that's what it was designed for but below that, it really isn't necessary. I took these shots hand held under heavy overcast with a Nikkor 2.8 80-200 and they're traveling at much higher speeds than any swooper I've ever seen. http://asphoto.smugmug.com/photos/180740129-L-3.jpg http://asphoto.smugmug.com/photos/180741757-L-3.jpg http://asphoto.smugmug.com/photos/180741163-L-3.jpg http://asphoto.smugmug.com/photos/180740721-L-3.jpg http://asphoto.smugmug.com/photos/180741335-L-3.jpg A good fast lens is great for shooting fast moving subjects and it will definitely make it easier to capture nice crisp shots of swoopers but you can still get good stuff with a good consumer type lens and a monopod. Action©Sports

Yep. They call it "VR" or Vibration Reduction. The 2.8 80-200 I showed you this weekend is the non-VR version but it still cost a pretty penny. I think the VR version is around $1,700 And thanks a bunch for the night shot from the "sunset" load by the way. I just need a good frame and it's going up on my wall. Peace, Z Action©Sports

Thanks but I already took care of it last week. Works like a charm.... Action©Sports

I wear freefly pants with my jacket or my shorty when it gets cold outside. With the freefly pants you add drag on your legs - to compensate you have to arch and and pull in your legs a little. Then stick your arms out and forward so your wings can cup air like they're designed to. Something like this. The steeper you get, the further out you need to stick out your legs to compensate for the air bleeding off your chest since you're basically forcing yourself in to a back slide. Action©Sports

Just look at point and shoot cameras at http://www.bhphotovideo.com Nikon, Canon, Samsung, Olympus, Pentax, they all make smaller point and shoot style cameras that can accept a remote switch. The cheapest ones are probably the Pentax Optio T20 or A30 and the Samsung NV11. Or you can always pick up a cheap Digital Rebel on egay.... Action©Sports

You designed that thing? Guess a thank you is order cuz I've been using mine for the past 7 years and absolutely love that thing. If it's hot out I just wear shorts and the jacket but if it gets chilly I put on some FF pants. For really fast falling stuff I use a shorty Tony suit. Action©Sports

Just switched to Nikon a while back myself. My D200 is mounted and sighted in but I still need to wire up a remote for it... Action©Sports

What kind of a dumb fucking question is that? Action©Sports

I always buy from B&H or Adorama. Service is always good and very quick, prices are always good, and if you have a problem, they take care of you right away. Action©Sports

Good to hear you didn't lose anything. HD Failures suck. Action©Sports

Here's one from last weekend. Not as cool as JT's duck picture, but close Duck Action©Sports

Think I might have to steal that line Action©Sports

Every map you find on Dynojet's website that was created by their "Master Tuner" runs rich. That's just a safety net so you can't blame them when you make the mixture too lean and roast your engine. If your bike is equipped with a P.A.I.R valve and the shop is too lazy to disable it, you'll end up with a map that's way rich too. Even after having my custom map made I leaned it out more than 5% across the rev range - been running it like that both on the street and on the track for nearly 20,000 miles without so much as a hickup. As far as race tuners go, sure, they adjust the stock programming in the ECU but the difference in price is quite significant. Depending up what kind of bike you're running you might have to call Dan Kyle and buy a specific Race ECU for your bike at a cost of nearly $500 and you lose lots of functions from your stock ECU like the automatic fan, kill switches for the kickstand, and the ability to start your bike while in gear. And then if you want to program the thing yourself you'll need the additional $350 CD and cable. A Power Commander costs under $300 and the end results are not enough justify the cost unless you're buliding a pure race machine. The TuneBoy is pretty cool cuz it allows you to completely reprogram the stock ECU and only costs a few bucks more than a Power Commander but, it only works on Triumphs. Action©Sports

Ahh, that's a bit steep. I get a base curve done for $35 at the local shop.... Forgot to add that is only for the base curve. I had a custom map made for my 1KRR after some exhaust and engine mods it ran about $300 Action©Sports

It's a Carbie driven 883 sporty, unless you get the Dyno done for beer or free that's good money after bad. It's nothing close to a performance engine, have a decent mechanic do the next service and it should be sorted. I'm almost ashamed to admit it but, I used to have one. Dynos aren't just for performance engines. They run the giant ever so powerful 1450cc 63Hp Hardley V-Twins on those things all day long. It just helps you select the correct jets and saves you the hassle of takin' the carbs apart every time you want to try a new set of needles... Action©Sports

QuoteTotally disagree....and the power commander is the hottest, leanest tuner available. I took one off my last sled as it was running the motor WAYYYY hot. Quote The only way a Power Commander is causing a bike to run too lean is if it's faulty or programmed incorrectly. The Power Commander runs as a slave to the ECU and simply adds or subtracts fuel based on the map that you've loaded into its memory. You can even program it to add or subtract fuel to each individual cylinder if you so desire. It's a proven product that works extremely well. Action©Sports

Best bet would be to grab a used lawn mower engine and slap in there. You'll notice an instant improvement in horse power, torque, and reliablilty . Just givin' ya some shit, man. Your best bet is to run it on a dyno and get a base curve done. It will give you a visual of your air/fuel ratio throughout the power curve and it'll will help you select the proper jetting. Action©Sports

Yeah....hard core being the operative word there. I'm still impressed with the D200 at the track. Shooting a motorcycle coming towards me a 100+ it still shoots at 5fps and has time to focus in between. Sure, a few here and there come out blurry but it's surprisingly few. There was a dude shooting with a Canon 500mm Prime on Sunday (the arrogant little shit told me "I don't shoot zoom lenses lol!) and my shots came out miles better than his. I was using my el cheapo $1,000 combo Nikkor 2.8 80-200 with a 2x extender. Somehow I don't believe it was because of the lens though Action©Sports

He he....no shit. The $7,000 price tag is a bit much though. I've been playing around with my D200 shooting in NEF/RAW at the track lately (normally I shoot jpg cuz I can take around 800 shots in a day and it's just too much work to process) and from what I've seen, there is just no way to justify spending that kind of money on a camera. I mean, quality wise, the modern prosumer Canon and Nikon cameras are capable of such incredible image quality, it's just not worth spending that kind of serious additional cash. Most of what you're paying for is convenience.... I'd rather spend the money on glass instead Action©Sports

Did it say they were going with a full frame sensor? Thought it just said more Mp's... Action©Sports