LukeH

A facetious comment for sure, maybe even sarcastic but there is a point to it. There has been a recent trend towards bigger suits... just sticking more surface area on a suit isn't necessarily the best way to improve performance. It should however reduce vertical speed for heavy flockers which is an advantage for well.. flocking if you are heavy. Truth is Flocking is where the majority of sales are, there is no shame is catering for this demand. BTW this guy has studied WS aerodynamics quite a bit more than most people that post on this forum. Don't get too paranoid about the fat American comments. -Drunk Irish Guy

Hi, I put the mounting post in the middle of the helmet, and trimmed it and the bar on the sight to have minimum excess i used a hacksaw and file. I set the sight so there is minimum gap between it and my goggles. Every thing to reduce the snag potential. If it somehow happens the quick release might get it's time to shine.

Nice work! You are loosing lots of light with the tele-converter, you need one of these or you could buy this for the same money.

This is the only picture I have handy.

I do. I love this lens. It's actually only .03lb heavier than the Sigma 15mm and .11lb heavier than the canon 15mm How ever it is a bit longer, so may not be great for forehead mounting. I made my own top mount bracket that supports the lens and has a 1" velcro strap that locks the zoom and focus rings in place. It is expensive, but so are multiple fixed lenses. I'd recomment a canon 20mm if you really want fixed.

Relax, Boris is not a terrorist. He and Robi may be shifty eastern Yuropean types but seem ok in general. People outside of the US may think that your President is a Buffoon, but we don't hold any ill will agaisnt most of the rest of you! I suggest you read Boris's post again and take it at face value. I know people at my local DZ that tend to focus on the freefall speed to see how good they are doing on wingsuit flights, it's the easiest thing for them to measure.

The 30D is a nice camera for sure. Compared to the XTi the shutter is rated for more cycles, the body is magnesium rather than plastic and I prefer the way the controls are laid out. The larger size and heavier weight on your head may be worth it if you are going to use it on the ground a lot. If it's mostly for jumping I'd prefer the smaller and lighter camera. The 30d is a bit dated (this is probably why it's not much more than the XTi), it was a fairly minor update to the 20d which it replaced. I'd expect it to be replaced with a 40d around Sept. The 40d may or may not have some nice new features you would like, but regardless the price of the 30d will drop. You can really torment yourself trying to choose a camera but it gets even worse when you try to choose glass for it! I have a XT with Canon 10-22mm. Will probably buy a full frame (5d or one of it's replacements) for using on the ground some day. At the end of the day, all 4 cameras you have mentioned will probably serve you very well. Just prioritise things like Make, Lenses and Acc. available, Cost, Weight, Size etc. and hopefully one will stand out.

The short answer is no. Broadly speaking, the difference between 8MP and 10MP is irrelevant. If you enlarge a picture a lot or crop heavily you may see a difference. I think lens glass and sensor size are much more important for picture quality. Camera producers are increasing MPs just to out do/keep up with each other. BTW Canon 30d is 8.2MP and Canon XTi is 10.1MP The XTi is cheaper, smaller and lighter too. They are from different Canon ranges.

I haven't seen the DVD, but one likely reason for the lack of outside video is that finding someone that can outfly Robi during performance flying while concentrating on framing etc. is probably next to impossible. Soundtrack is a matter of taste you will never keep everyone happy.

this is one of the nicer site's i've seen http://www.brunobrokken.com/

there doesn't appear to be a sensor for an IR remote. so i assumed that there would be a wired remote. it'll be a pity if there isn't. no way to know about the settings being retained yet. no point in arguing over speculation!

I know what the probles are... This isn't just another compact camera like the canon A series etc. It's supposed to be the first "Full Spec" compact camera. There is a large rubber flap covering ports on the side of the camera, so i hope/guess there is a remote port under there. BTW I jump a 350D with a Canon 10-22mm.

Looks interesting. 14 Megapixel 16.6mm f/4 lens with APS-C size sensor. (equiv. to 28mm on 35mm frame) No word on frame rate, not sure if there is a remote trigger option but would guess so. http://www.dpreview.com/news/0703/07030807sigmadp1.asp Edit to add: http://www.sigma-dp1.com/

put it on ebay and post a link to the auction on this board.

low profile.. ...assuming the expensive lenses you are are waycool/liquid/royal? they are very low profile, this is good for two reasons. 1) reduces the chance you will knock the lens, if you do knock it, it has less leverage to damage your camera with. 2)less of a snag hazard. i don't know if the picture quality is as good, better or worse than the Kenko. if you are talking about Raynox HD glass or something else, i don't know enough about them to help, sorry. .45 is a good all purpose lens.

Icon nailed it. There was the 20D inbetween the 10D & 30D. The 350D has been supersceeded by the 400D The 300D/350D/400D are smaller cheaper and lighter than the 10D/20D/30D.

I have only 1,200+ skydives, know quite a bit about Photography, a little less about video. Yes a lot of people use those brands. However I know of quite a few people that are using Panasonic 3CCD cameras for both skydiving and BASE jumping and are having great results. In case you didn't know BASE jumping tends to be quite hard on gear, openings are harder than on skydives. I'm quite a fan of Sony (except their over the top copyright measures and proprietary nature) and I jump a PC101 & 350D. I have no problem recommending Sony, but it is wrong to imply that it is the only possibility. Finally, the people that I am referring to have WAY more experience than you and I put together.

1 Panasonic NV GS 505 > I don't know about this one. 2 Cannon HV 10 > The image stabiliser makes this VERY bad for skydiving. 3 JVC GZ-MG 505 > Don't know about this one. 4 Sony HDR HC 5/7 > Both fine cameras, the benefits of the HC7 may not warrant the extra cost if it's mainly for skydiving use. HC3 is also good and may be available cheap if anyone has stock. Sony IS NOT the only brand suitable for skydiving. Many people use Panasonic with great sucess (even in the harsh BASE envoirnment too!).

Jaesus lads, it's not that complicated. First there was the "Troll" which I've heard was based on CR's Mojo. Then they introduced the Mono Directional Values option (MDV) so there was Troll and Troll MDV Then based on feedback from Dwain (who was test jumping the Troll) they came up with a new canopy design which was called "Troll DW" (DW is not an option, Troll DW is a different canopy) this is also available with Mono Directional Valves so now there is Troll DW and Troll DW MDV As far as I know they stopped making the older Troll design when they introduced the Troll DW.

i guess i'm in-credible then. you aren't the first person to say that about me. for the record my recommendation is- do more jumps before putting a wingsuit on. my opinoin of the Prodigy is that it is an excellent choice for FFCs and as a first suit. this is based on my own experience of only about 300 wingsuit jumps spread mainly accross GTi, Prodigy & V1 (i have a few jumps on various other suits) and experience of teaching 20-30 FFCs to people in both GTi and Prodgiy

Dear Chief Fanboy, I take your point in relation to the low blow against the IMPACT. It wasn't necessary, just a cheap dig. However as for the rest of it, I just called is as I see it (as I usually do). Statements like are nonsense as are the same persons postings about the V2 being a step backwards from the V1! I agree firmly with your point about rushing into wingsuiting. Sadly many people rush into various aspects of jumping without the necessary skills or experience. Some are lucky enough to get away with it, a few are not so lucky...

Opinions are like assholes... everyone has one. But not all of them are right. Personally I found the Prodigy to be very easy to fly. In fact my first 15-20 jumps in a Prodigy were from cliffs. Skymonkey also says it's harder to fly a V2 than a V1. I'm not saying he is a Bird-Man fanboy, but his posts generaly favour BM and he is a rep/dealer/sponsered or something. In his defence at least he didn't recommend the IMPACT!

Somehow I can't imagine Robi hauling the extra weight of some electronic do-dad to tell him his glide, there are other ways to figure it out.

It's not difficult to work out how this very basic system works. Your post displays a shocking level of ignorance of your equipment OR the tendency to ask questions without even thinking about them yourself - expecting to be spoon fed the answers. It doesn't really portray the quick thinking jumper that knows his gear inside out that you should be to give youself the best chance of surviving a few seasons. I strongly suggest you take up a more forgiving sport or learn a lot before you continue. Maybe you are just tired, hungover and bored in work....

Hi, Don't be sorry about asking such a question. Use the search box at the bottom of the page!