BMFin

I dont think theres a reasonably easy way to use a filter on a fisheye lens.

Yes, but in my case the fogging started to arise already 5 seconds after I clibmed out and even before the exit. At this point the temperature was at the lowest. It was a nice warm summer day on the ground, but much colder at 13k (as it always is)

Im still kind of puzzled about what exactly creates the fog. Lets think about eyeglasses for example: When you step inside a warm enviroment (inside a house) coming from a cold enviroment, your eyeglasses will get foggy. But this doesnt happen usually when the temperature change is vice versa ? (from a warm house to cold outside) In our case the situation is from warm to cold isnt it ? Why do we still get the fog ? Can anyone explain this to me ?

I recently bought the Samyang 8mm f/3.5, which seems to perform very well exept for the super annoying fogging I had with it. So far I have done two jumps with the lens on different days and on both jumps the lens started to fog perhaps 5 seconds after I climb out. I thought it might help to cool down the lens to get it adjusted on the lower temperatures at the altitude so on the second jump I held the lens in front of the fan nozzle of the aircraft for at least 3 minutes. This didnt seem to help at all. Would be really helpfull if someone has experience on this issue with fiseye lens optics. Im not quite sure where exatcly does the fogging take place. Im suspecting it could be developing on the inner side of the front element. (this is just a guess) Im also curious to find out why exactly some other lenses suffer from this problem and some others dont. My 10-22mm for example hasnt had this problem at all. Im guessing the problem might be that in the fisheye optics the front element is so thick. (just a hunch) However Im not very convinced this is the whole truth, since the difference on the thickness of the two front elements isnt that overwhelming..(see the pics attached) I appologize if this has been discussed before. I only found discussions concerning videocamera WA adapters. Im more interested on how people have overcome this problem with SLR lenses. (especially someone with peleng 8mm or similar)

almost NSFW

I didnt know there is a specific "safety record" for each DZ? But I guess this seems to be the case, since some DZ´s have already banned swooping totally. (which is just crazy in my opinion) This direction where we are heading is what kills the whole idea of skydiving. These are the kind of people that hate base jumping also since it ruins "the image of skydiving"..

Some people are willing to take more risk than others. Theres nothing wrong with that in my opinion. Everyone is free to take as much risk as they please. For example Travis Pastrana has broken over 60 bones in his career ? He has had 4 tibia fractures, dislocated spine, broken back, broken collarbones, broken wrist, broken ankles, broken shoulders etc.. Would you say that what hes doing is wrong ? Who are you to say that ? Why is the attitude towards injury so twisted in skydiving?

nice one ! BTW. it looked like your velo opened nice and smooth. Is it always like that ? My limited experience on velo is a bit different..

Looking back I think I could have jumped with a camera at 150 jumps no problem. I dont think its such a risk people here tend to think it is. It is often in our sport that those with more experience are trying to restrict those with less experience. I have a hard time believeing it is just the altruistic fellow jumper genuinely worried about others well being. So if you think you can jump the camera, then do it. However I suggest you dont post it here on DZ.com, since you are just gonna get flamed.

yes the 550 has 60fps video. 5D doesnt however.. 7D is also APS-C just like the 550D. Actually EF-S lenses can be used on the 5D also. They just dont perform very well on FF. see here Not just a good lens is important, but you need other lenses, flash equipment, a good PP software. And if you want to edit video, chances are you need a new computer too

Theres a 280 grams of difference which isnt that much at all. Personally I wouldnt let this amount of weight difference influence my decision. In skydiving use I regard the 7D as the best. Its much faster (8fps), it has 60p/24p video etc.. In normal use I would like the 5d better. In skydiving the 35mm sensor is a negative feature however. Just get the body your budjet allows. IMO you need a budjet something like 2x price of the body. The worst option would be to use the whole budjet on the body alone.

Leica is also medium format btw..

On top of my hat at least the hasselblad lineup and Leica S2 uses leaf shutters. They are both most definetly DSLR´s The term SLR (single lens reflex camera) refers to the way the viewfinder is. SLR has a mirror that makes it possible to see the same composition from the viewfinder that you get when you press the shutter. A rangefinder camera on the otherhand is not an SLR because it doesnt use this mirror mechanism..

There are also DSLR´s with leaf shutters.

Sigma 15mm is ment for a fullframe camera. If you want fisheye for the APS-C, look for some 8mm 10mm primes or the Tokina 10-17mm zoom. If you are unsure of what you want exactly but you want a fisheye, I recommend the Tokina 10-17

Crossfire2 will give you very nice openings for sure. It is ideal for flying camera. In terms of swooping, Icarus canopies all have shorter recovery arcs than PD canopies. (XF2, Neos, VX, JVX vs. Katana, Velocity) They just require a little bit different (maby a bit more precise) swooping technique.

One of my class mates in junior high school had similar eyeglasses about 12 years ago. He was secretly filming school life for Norwegian documentary film producers and to maintain authenticity, the camera should remain hidden. Ofcourse at those times the recording medium had to be stored somewhere on his clothes.

I dont think there are major differences with different camera bodies. However, I like the canon lineup of lenses. This I consider a plus for the canon user. Nikon has also exellent lenses, but canon has more variety and perhaps better price/quality ratio. This is the advantage of a large mfg.

A few talented Finnish skydivers have filmed some nice music videos with the 5dm2 such as this: http://www.vimeo.com/9707347 I remember after the 5Dm2 came out and I thought it was pretty cool and exiting, people were laughing at me in here for thinking so... I dont hear anyone laughing no more. Canon DSLR video has proven to be exellent piece of equipment no doubt. Even some of the bigger budget film makers use it nowadays. (Fox series house, 24 etc...) Im eager to see what people will come up with this in the air..

I dont check histogram in freefall either. You can always shoot test shots from the window of the plane, this way the exposures shouldnt be unpredictable. There is good time to study the histogram. Basically I could do this on the plane even below a cloud ceiling, if there was one. However, I normally dont consider anything worth shooting in such a poor light anyway. If I must shoot something special in a poor light I would lit it with flash and set it manually. If there is good light above the clouds I would just shoot then and stop shooting when the light is no longer availeable. There are many ways to do this ofcourse, but normally the light conditions remain pretty consistant through out the skydive. Therefore I think rather make sure I get the sharp aperture if I know the shutterspeed will be sufficiently faster than 1/500. To me it is less relevant if it is 1/400 or 1/1000. In terms of sharpness however, it makes a difference weather it is f/5.6 or f/11 I shoot quite a lot at 1/200 by the way. It doesnt necessarily yield a lot of motion blur. And if it does, it doesnt necessarily ruin the pic.

I prefer AV over TV because, this way I can assure Im using the aperture I want. Normally I prefer f/5.6 or f/8 on my lens because at this aperture the lens is at its sharpest.When using a flash I set everything manually. The shutter speed wont be unpredictable if you learn to use the exposure meter in the view finder. Learning to use the exposure meter in the viewfinder is one of the things everyone should learn to understand correct exposure. In addition with digital photography, the possibility of utilizing the histogram is a big advantage. With tools like this exposure should be far from unpredictable. To the OP: Go to the library and look for a beginners guide to photography. Learning the very basics helps to understand why there isnt just one answer to your question. Theres also a lot of good info online. Good luck !

Why do you think spot metering would be usefull ? I have hacked my 400D and I have spotmetering, but I wont use it since using it will result into great variance on the exposures. For example results will differ when the spot is metered on the subjects helmet (which can be black) or from one exact zit on the subjects face which most of the times is white (no pun intended) Therefore I think you will be better off when not when the metering area is not too limited.

I guess you mean Canon D 30 and not 30 D ? The 300 D doesnt have spot metering either. What helps with exposure metering is to cover the viewfinder in order to block light entering through it.

Im sure if you would totally ban skydiving it would reduce skydiving accidents even more..

Perhaps he means Yurop.