fcajump

Pure white. Shows off your skill in standing up those landings all the time. J Always remember that some clouds are harder than others...

Agreed that it does not matter much in this context, and in common discussions ZP does stand for 0-porosity. HOWEVER (since we're being anal here

Please understand the nature of the responses you are getting on both this and your question on main canopy sizes. Based on the nature of your question and the fact that your profile gives us no indication that you have any significant jump experience, the canopy sizes you are asking about is NOT appropriate for your stated weight. The weight/size combinations you are refering to would be questionable for a HIGHLY experienced jumper, but for someone with less than several thousand jumps of progressively higher performance canopys, it would be highly dangerous. The combination is like asking if a 16 year old on a learner's permit should have a Farrari. Until or unless we hear more about what you currently fly and your experience, many people will take your question as a joke with no offence intended. PLEASE talk to an experienced instructor and/or rigger who you would trust with your life and who personally knows your skill level before buying gear. J Always remember that some clouds are harder than others...

Not sure how each examiner would view this, but for me: Main repack - out, shaken, packed. Being observant of the normal areas of concern. (not to be confused w/ a main canopy inspection which is sometimes called for) Reserve repack - out, aired as necessary, INSPECTED packed per mfg instructions, sealed and signed off. J Always remember that some clouds are harder than others...

As a larger/broader guy myself, I tell you... "You are... but that doesn't mean you aren't right." (actually the math works against us, but ignore that for now...) The only concern, is this... remember that while you can scale down your canopy in the same rig, there is such a thing as "too small" for the container. If you downsize your canopy, make sure the container is still properly filled and the closing loop tension is tight. (Maybe Booth has pre-written guidelines on "too loose" that he could insert here...?) Jim Always remember that some clouds are harder than others...

Actually the reason also has to do with the FAA... FAR 105.43(a) reads: The main parachute must have been packed within 120 days before the date of its use of a certificated parachute rigger, the person making the next jump with that parachute, or a non-certificated person under the direct supervision of a certification parachute rigger. And if you don't think they (can be) serious, we were carded during the pilot's briefing before an airshow. All present had their current USPA card, License and Reserve Pack Data Card. BUT the (young) FAA rep wanted definative PROOF that all main's had been repacked within the last 120 days before he would let us jump. We stated that: 1. we WERE the jumpers intending the use them and would testify that we had repacked them recently (see our log books) 2. most of USPA headquarters were present (and jumping) 3. there is no recording requirement in 105.43a He finally backed down when we presented documentation that: 4. most of the are riggers were present (with credentials) and all of us assured him that we open the main when we repack the reserve, therefore the main must have been repacked. He was new and simply looking for a reason to flash his badge, but for the record the requirement is there. The more you know... Jim Always remember that some clouds are harder than others...

Also In addition to the good advice already made, let me add... I myself am 5'9" and 200+, and while I could stand to drop a few this spring, I am also an athletic build. I asked that same set of questions when I bought my first rig at ~35 jumps. I chose to buy new and would recommend the same. 1. I needed to KNOW where the gear had been and what condition it was in. I did not want trouble with someone else's cast-aside with that little experience (no offence). 2. Custom harness size. For the larger built, especially in the torso and shoulders (like me), most rigs that you can get into are still not right. Remember most folks that buy used gear focus on the container volumes and take the size harness that happens to be attached. BOTH the container size AND harness size are a factor for guys built like us. Jumping a rig with a too small yoke or main lift web hurts after a while... my second rig was used... great rig but the main lift web was too short for me... 3. Canopy size. DO NOT buy the canopy you will want later. Buy the canopy you can safely handle when you've already pushed the wind/condition limits and get an out landing. This means the reserve too. 4. Container size. I would recommend here, buying a rig that is correct for the canopies, but is a little tight for the main. Here you are giving yourself the flexibility to move down to a smaller main later (assuming you don't need to move up because you took #3 seriously). Good luck and have fun! Jim Always remember that some clouds are harder than others...

While I personnally jump with a Pro-Track and have found it loud enough for me, I would like to throw this out for consideration in the theme of "Bigger isn't always better" How loud is too loud? While I realize (first hand) that the audio needs to overcome the wind-noise (I jump w/ a Protec and believe me, there is alot) if the pure emphasis is making them louder, what long-term hearing loss and or tinitis (sp?) risks are we running. BEFORE YOU START: I realise that not hearing it is also a risk, but if you can already... why buy one that is twice as loud? I would especially ask this of those wearing full face helmets or even frap-hats as these tend to decrease the effect of wind noise. Bigger isn't always better, louder isn't always safer. Just a thought. Jim Always remember that some clouds are harder than others...

Rob, Do you have a copy of the two SB's? Thanks, Jim Always remember that some clouds are harder than others...

All the more reason to work with Sunpath to get a rig built for you and your (correctly sized/loaded) canopies. They can adjust the build so that it FITS rather than something that you ask your rigger to "MAKE WORK" Paraphrased from one of my own seminars: The reserve canopy must fit your exit weight and worst case situation (broken arm, over a swamp infested with beavers and half unconscious for example). The container fits the canopy and should not extend beyond your body profile such as to affect your body position or stability. The harness must FIT your body shape and hold you securely in all possible opening orientations. Jim Wine PS - I wish certain people would stop calling me an asking me to inspect/pack and help them put on the latest piece of junk they found on EBay (at such a greatprice). Always remember that some clouds are harder than others...

Getting off thread a little, but one other thing to consider when picking a reserve... I knew someone that ordered a custom color reserve (at extra expense I think) to match her gear. One afternoon she had a mal on her main and cut-away. The jumpers in the air wanted to give extra room to the person under the reserve and the crew on the ground wanted to go out and lend a hand in case the jumper had additional problems... only problem was until she was on final (and we could see no pilot chute in trail) that we even knew which multi-colored canopy was in fact the reserve. It was only because we knew how many jumpers were on the load that we knew the cut-away jumper had not gone in. My recommendation is that reserves should be solid color and either white, yellow or orange. This makes it clear to all that there is a jumper who is not having "just another skydive". (white is fine IF the thead is a contrasting color) Jim PS - I bought a used rig with a very fine Raven II in it... while I believe the above discussion on visible solid colors, Neon PINK would NOT have been my first choice... Always remember that some clouds are harder than others...

No, but I was holding my breath (and bid) when it was still at $50. Next time I looked, it was above my (wife's) price range. J Always remember that some clouds are harder than others...

In my experience with my gear, this concern is mitigated by two observations: 1. The amount of tension required to release the 1/2 loop is (virtually) inconcequential and should flow with no resistance. Prove this to yourself by watching the deployment on the ground.* 2. The double-wrapped stows should be tight enough to keep the small force described in #1 to be of issue. Also, had there been any drag of signifigance, there would have been line-burn at some point in the almost 500 jumps placed on each of two canopies. I have seen none. Jim * To the purists out there, I know that the dynamics of freefall deployment can be different, but I don't have the freefall video of the deployments to back it up... will have to work on that. ;-) Always remember that some clouds are harder than others...

On this rig and my Vector V8, no. 4 locking stows on the D-bags. However, I have also used a rig that has a center stow and it made no difference. Maybe I should make the following clarification: Place the resulting loop under the lines from the previous NON-locking stows. There really is no benefit to shoving it all the way the the closing flap. Remember you are simply tucking it under and out of the way. Jim Always remember that some clouds are harder than others...

John, Honestly no. I have no direct proof that double stowing the locking stows will cause a bag lock. I repeat the long-held belief as it makes sense to me and would be a very hazardous condition. (And me erroring on the side of caution on this one.) (Please also note that I only stipulate not to double wrap the locking stows, though I do double wrap all others.) I will go back and read the prior discussion as I missed it the first time through. Would be interesting to see if one could provide any proof on this DZ legend. Jim Always remember that some clouds are harder than others...

I threw this together quickly last night and will append/edit if anyone provides feedback. Jim Always remember that some clouds are harder than others...

Can anyone from PD explain? It is one of the few reasons that I don't like working with their reserves. (The other is white thread on white fabric being hard to inspect... but I digress). Jim Always remember that some clouds are harder than others...

#5 or #6 would be my vote. J Always remember that some clouds are harder than others...

In Reply To However, what I do with that 1/2 loop is to neatly slip it under all the other line groups against the D-bag. See, although unlikely (?) I'd be worried about it pulling a stow out as exits from under the line groups. But I'm sure you mitigate that with fresh bands and even double banding on those stows. ______________________________________ Actually, to complete my dangerous and unconventional description (and answer questions implied..) I do keep my stow bands fresh and I double wrap but I keep my bites to ~1". (and use the appropriate sized band for the line type) I've done this for years with both Dacron and Spectra lines with no evidence of friction burns. Jim Always remember that some clouds are harder than others...

For what is is worth, I was taught to use the same method of "split-stows" and Wendy's pictures look just like my rig. However, what I do with that 1/2 loop is to neatly slip it under all the other line groups against the D-bag. This way it stays put, but does not have a lopsided stow band on that line group. While I WON'T say that one problem or another couldn't happen, but with about 1,100 jumps on this method without issue and no deployments in line twist of over 180 out (and very few over 50-90 off-heading), I think this is a reasonable method. Jim Always remember that some clouds are harder than others...

Sounds like we learned from the same person... I've used that style for >1k jumps and like it. Jim Always remember that some clouds are harder than others...

Not wanting to change what has always worked for me... ~8" - about the distance from the links to the bottom corners of the main compartment with a little slack. (I also "split-stow" the last stow, a technique I don't teach but always use myself.) This keeps the lines from crossing the container near the closing loop anchor. About the gear used: Vector I and II PD-260 w/ dacron lines Spector -230 w/ spectra lines (I think) More techniques I use on my own gear but not currently recommended: 1" bites double wrapped stowes for all non-locking I KNOW this goes against current techniques, but it has worked on MY gear (old & big) for >1000 jumps and makes me happy.

Just as with other out-landings, consider the following: - obstacle avoidance / open area on land - don't hit the tractor / power line crossing the field on water - don't hit the bridge / power line crossing the river - wind line on land - into the wind slows your ground speed and helps collapse your canopy behind you on water - into the wind slows your ground... er... water speed and helps collapse your canopy behind you - near (but not ON) avenues or individuals of assistance (not forgetting obstacle avoidance) on land - near a road or house (phone) on water - near shore or a boat - REMEMBER TO be ready to PLF (I've boated on some very large lakes/rivers that were only 1-2 feet deep in places.) / REMEMBER TO do all the other things learned in your live water jump training. - fast moving water... here you might open a lively debate as to whether during your landing you would be dragged back under the canopy, and how the you and the canopy could be entangled in the currents... but the specific examples get very involved and I doubt that a single solution provided here could address all possible situations. Maybe a good general guess would be land across the flow. Just my thoughts... Jim Always remember that some clouds are harder than others...

1. When system is packed, must hold the pilot chute securely, but not so much that you have a hard pull. If it doesn't, replace it. If it is too tight, check with a rigger to ensure your are packing it correctly, if still hard to pull, replace it (a rigger can give you a little more room if needed). 2. When spandex starts dying, it often starts looking white (or salt/pepper) as the elastic starts breaking down. The aforementioned wrinkled look is also a great 'tell'. 3. If you get a hole in it, REPLACE IT. I've seen people jumping with holes in the pouch and it drives me nuts. Imagine the horseshoe that results from the PC being extracted through a hole in the pouch... Stop justifying why this may or may not happen... fix it. Personal opinion: If you still have a Cordura pouch (instead of spandex), replace it. You can't imagine the hard pull this can cause. Just my $0.02, JW Always remember that some clouds are harder than others...

(from the US) I've been advised to keep the seal as high on the pin as possible to keep it clear of the grommet for this reason. If you get a chance to post a diagram, I would love to see your method of placing the seal. JW Always remember that some clouds are harder than others...