Hooknswoop

As long as you route it the way you are, back through behind the buckle, you'll have no problems. I jumped a chest strap that way for years without a problem. Derek

I have had great success with adding pockets to sliders. The catch air and prevent air from entering the nosed of the canopy, slowing down initial inflation. I start with a large pocket, then trim it down until the customer is happy with their openings. I think a strip of webbing sewn to the front of the slider would help, but not make a dramatic difference. Derek

More than likely yes, if it s going to fail, it will be on opening. The exception would be if there is already a tear, it can continue to rip anytime or steering lines. As long as a rigger has looked it over, you should be fine. Don't worry about cleanig them. Take them off the steering lines and clean them by hand. A washing machine could damage the grommets. Be sure to rinse them completely. Derek

Gus was refering to the keeper on the front of the rear riser, not the riser covers. Definately stow the excess steering line. The best place seems to be on the front of the rear risers with either elastic or type IV (binding tape/pull up cord material) Wear on the steeringlines from stowing them isn't an issue. Derek

I have seen flexable gun-barrel cleaners at sports stores and have considered buying one to see how well they work on housings. Maybe I'll have to get one. Derek

Quick review; The rules are: 1) No personal attacks. None. C'mon, keep it civil.

Ace Hardware stores sell it. It is in a standard spray can with a clear cap. $5.00-ish. I used to use WD-40 and silicone is much, much better. It leaves a dry slick film behind. I would never use WD-40 again. Derek

I'm thinking he gets a free tandem skydive. Glad to hear everything made it. Derek

The trick is to teach them the correct body position from the get-go. I cringe when I hear a TM tell their passenger to "put your feet on my ass". Derek

I wouldn't take just anyone, but most people, yes. That being said, the student is better off having done 2-3 tandems first. They have less fear of the unknowns, less anxiety, understand how to fly the canopy, and are better equipped to handle the skydive. Derek

I have done a lot off AFF/AFP level ones as a solo Instructor. The student had done 3 'working' tandems prior to their first AFF/AFP. I found it easier than standard AFF level 1's. The main side JM doesn't help on exit, only makes it worse. I have been rolled on 2-JM AFF dives, but never on solo JM level 1 AFP dives. Derek

The USPA requirement to have only 1 JM is the student must demonstrate pulling on time, stable. I know there was talk of clarifing this or stating a minum number of jumps before the student can jump with 1 JM. This is only a USPA requirement and acording to the FAR's, you can make your first jump without a JM. Derek

Relative Workshop's web page, http://www.relativeworkshop.com/, has their V3 manual which covers 3-ring maintenance. In short, every 30-days, disconnect the 3-ring and 'massage' the webbing to prevent it from taking a set. Clean the cutaway cables with Ace Pure Silicone Lubricant. Derek

I've used both metel-set and expoy before to fix liners in Z1's. I also replace the bungee with a stronger, thicker type. Derek

It could be uneven line stows, but it sounds like it is the pilot chute causing the line twists. This is something that should be brought to the DZO's attention and looked into. Even though line twists are easy to fix under a student canopy, they prevent you from releasing the brakes. If you open and happen to be facing another jumper, you can't (easily) steer away from them. Derek

That's the one I jumped, well 2 versions of it anyway. Derek

Twisted risers. The number one cause of hard cutaways is when the canopy has line twists that include the risers and the excess cutaway cables on the back of the rear risers. The friction that is created can high enough that the jumper is unable to cutaway. The solution is capped, tacked hard housing inserts for the excess cutaway cable on the back of the rear risers. Lack of 3-ring maintenance. Completing the 3-ring maintenance every 30 days keeps the 3-ring working at it's best. It will take more and more force to release the longer it goes without maintenance. Dirty cutaway cables. This is important and has a very big impact on cutaway forces. Cleaning the cutaway cables every 30 days with Ace Pure Silicone Lubricant keeps friction between the cables and housings low. Nicks, bends or cracks in the cutaway cables. Any sort of damage to the cutaway cables, especially at the locking loop or above can dramatically increase cutaway forces. Replace damage cutaway cables with a new handle. Cutaway cable housings too short. If the cutaway cable housings are too short, they put stress on the locking loop, changing the geometry of he 3-ring and putting more friction on the locking loop. Relative Workshop's web page contains information on how to inspect your housing for length. Mini rings. Manufacturing tolerances for mini rings are tighter than standard rings. Even correctly manufactured mini rings do not have the mechanical advantage of standard rings, resulting in higher cutaway forces. Have the construction of your 3-rings checked, or check Relative Workshop's web site to check them yourself or use standard risers. Incorrectly manufactured risers. 3-rings must be manufactured to tight tolerances in order to get the maximum mechanical advantage. Have the construction of your 3-rings checked, or check Relative Workshop's web site to check them yourself. Twisted cutaway cable housings. If the cutaway cable housings are twisted, so that they are facing away from the riser, the twisting force adds tension to the locking loop, adding to the cutaway force. Have twisted housings fixed. Soft housings. Soft housings create more friction between the housing and cutaway cables than hard housings. Have your rig converted to hard housings if it has soft housings. Derek

What is in my rigging kit: Rigging tools should be durable, large enough not to fit into reserve container, and have a flag installed. Have the minimum tools possible, one tool for several jobs if possible. The less tools, the better. Here is what is my kit and either how I made it or if I bought it. -Tool: Wire Fids for finger trapping line. Made them Materials: 0.20, 0.32, and 0.41 aircraft safety wire, 1/2-inch aluminum pipe, 1/2-inch vinyl caps, epoxy, and heat shrink. Cut the aluminum tubing about 6 inches long. Cap each end with a vinyl cap. Use epoxy to glue the caps on. Drill 2 holes, 1/8-inche apart, centered on the tube. Use a drill bit only slightly larger than the safety wire you will use to make the fid. Using about 16 inches of safety wire, put about 3 inches of both ends through each hole on the tube, centering the wire. Bring each end back through the opposite hole and pull tight. Twist the wire, using a rod in the end of the loop of wire until tight and even. Then wrap the ends around the wire towards the loop end of the wire. slide the heat shrink over the wire so that it extends from the tube to just past where the short ends terminate and heat the heat shrink to protect the line form the ends of the wire. An alternate Fid design is to take stainless steel rods of different diameters, tap one end with course threads and, using a Dremel tool, taper the other end. -Tool: Raw-hide hammer for removing knots, opening "L"-bars, etc. Bought it. -Tool: Dead Blow hammer for setting snaps and grommets. Bought it. -Tool: 2 "T" bodkins. Bought them, then modified one. One with a Dacron lanyard, stainless steel straight pin and tube stow or rubber band. If you need to, Dremel out the hole so that the stainless steel straight pin will fit. The rubber band/tube stow keeps the stainless stell straight pin in the hole which keeps the "T" handle from coming out of the free-bag. -Tool: 2 Velcro line protectors with long flags. Some riggers sew Velcro to the flag on their Cypres temp pins. This prevents the possibility of leaving the line protectors on the free-bag. This is risky in that the pins are sharp and can puncture the free-bag and reserve canopy. Materials: 1-inch loop Velcro, 1-inch type-IV tape, 3/4-inch type-IV tape (neon pink) Sew the Velcro to the 1-inch type IV, folding under the ends of the type-IV. Then sew the 3/4-inch type-IV to the Velcro. Simply sewing the flag to the Velcro causes the Velcro edges to wear quickly. The re-enforcement of the 1-inch type-IV is necessary. -Tool: Packing paddle(s). Made them. There are several variations and materials. They can be made of wood, aluminum, plastic, or stainless steel. They can be tapered or flat. The advantage of the wood is any dents won't leave sharp edges or burrs that can damage the reserve or container. Aluminum and stainless steel is stronger. Make the packing paddle long enough that it won't fit inside a closed container, preventing the possibility of accidentally packing it into the container and put a long flag on it, just in case. Either make them or buy them. At least 2 are necessary. -Tool: Leatherman Wave. I use it in place of several tools; scissors for cutting seal thread, tacking cord or other cutting jobs, pliers for putting in the rip cord pin, screwdrivers for changing Cypres batteries and "L" links and a straight and serrated edge knives, putting a needle through thick fabric, etc. Bought it. -Tool: Clear film case for lead seals. Keeps them from ending up in the bottom of my rigging box. Locate one. -Tool: Spring scale 0-40 lbs. minimum with max weight indicator. Make sure it has an adjustment screw so that it can be calibrated. It is used for SB's tests, rip-cord pull force tests, fabric pull tests, etc. Bought it. -Tool: Rag and Ace Pure Silicone Lubricant. Any sort of clean, durable rag will work. I use a cloth napkin form a restaurant. The silicone is at Ace Hardware stores. Bought it. -Tool: Packing weights. Made them. Materials: Type-XII webbing, lead shot, Type-IV neon pink tape. Cordura, Type-XII webbing, lead shot. Fold over long-ways and sew type-12 webbing, fill with lead shot, add a long flag and sew shut. Make them long enough that they won't fit into a closed container. Also a very large one made of Cordura with Type-XII webbing handle to weight the container and a smaller thick one to put under the reserve container when closing the rig are nice to have. -Tool: Knee plate. Made it. Materials: Thick Stainless steel. Cut the notch for the pull up for/temp pin and polish it. It will take a serious machine to cut stainless steel. -Tool: Positive tension closing device. Made it. Materials: Stainless steel rod, about 1-inch thick. Can be hollow or solid. If hollow, needs thick wall. Stainless steel rod, 3/8-inch. Drill a 3/8-inch hole near one end and cut a notch in the other end for the pull up cord. Using a Dremel, clean up the edges. I made mine long enough that I can turn it without the handle hitting the reserve container. Cut the 3/8-inch thick stainless steel rod to about the length of the closing device. Be careful with a positive tension closing device as this tool can create a lot of leverage. Only use with a knee plate to prevent damage to grommets. -Tool: 10X magnifying lens with flag. Bought it. -Tool: Ball point pen. Doesn't run on the reserve data card. I like the stainless steel parker pen. Bought it. -Tool: 6 large clamps. Great aids for packing. Add flags. Bought them. -Tool: 22 Caliber stainless steel rifle cleaning rod for pulling the pull up cord up through the reserve PC. Bought it. -Tool: Line separator for rounds. Bought it, but could easily make one. Tool: Small crescent wrench with a stainless steel straight pin on a lanyard for leverage prevents over-tightening of Rapide links. Also eliminates the need for a screwdriver and a wrench. Bought it and modified it. Materials: Small crescent wrench, type IIA, stainless steel straight pin. Finger trap and sew the straight pin to the crescent wrench. Make the type-IIA lanyard long enough to make it difficult to pack tool into container. -Tool: Cypres material pull up cord with a 6 inch piece of Cypres material finger trapped in the center to make it thicker so it is easier to get the pin through the loop. It is also damages the closing loop during closing less. Made them. -Tool: Pre-made Cypres and long and short main closing loops. Made them. -Tool: Red fingernail polish. Used to make a torque strip on Rapide links. If the strip isn't aligned, then the barrel nut has loosened up. Bought it. -Tool: Line tie-off lanyard. I use it to apply tension to the A, B, C, and D lines of a reserve to hold them in place while I flake the canopy. Materials: 1-inch webbing, 4 1-inch fast-tec quick release fasteners, stainless steel 1-inch buckle. Sew loops of 1-inch webbing to a main piece of 1-inch webbing, each with a quick release buckle on it. At the top end, sew the buckle so that the entire tool can be tightened. Each line group loop can be tighten individually and the entire assembly can be tightened to adjust for different sized reserves. -Tool: Feeler gauge. For checking grommets. Bought it. -Tool: 12-inch stainless steel 'Wescott' ruler. Bought it. -Tool: Lock-tight for Rapide links. Bought it. -Tool: Metalic Sharpie. For writing on soft reserve ripcord handles. Bought it. -Tool: Seal press. Bought it. -Tool: Hand needles. Bought them. -Tool: Lighter. Bought it. -Tool: Seam ripper. Bought it. -Tool: Cypres temp pin. Bought it. I keep the following in an Aluminum clipboard (keeps everything neat) Bought it: -Inspection checklist. Made it. -Re-pack and Cypres stickers. Using return address labels, make "Re-pack Due:" and "Maint Due: / Batts Due:" stickers to put on reserve data cards. Made them. -Closing loop length chart. A list of container types and sizes with reserve size and length of closing loop. Made it. -Packing data cards. Bought them. -Stamp with certificate # and seal code, prevents 'pencil packing'. Bought it. Derek

I jumped 2 versions of that 89 sq. ft. prototype. It is definately not crossbraced. Nice canopy and I would agree that it fits between the Crossfire and the Safire. I tried to make it open off heading and couldn't, nor would it open hard. Edit: to clarify, I jumped the prototype that Canuck is refering to, not the prototype that Jim is jumping. Derek

I knew a guy that had a new Sabre. He couldn't pack it and paid packers. One day, all the packers were busy and he sat around and couldn't jump. He was completely reliant on others for packing and maintaining his gear. When these people weren't available, he was stuck on the ground. Last I heard, he doesn't jump anymore. Learn to pack. Learn what to look at on your gear and how to perform user mainanence. Learning to pack ZP is difficult, but once you learn, it isn't difficult to pack ZP. Derek

If someone wanted to actually try something like this, the failure modes have to be looked at. For example, in this case, what if the cutaway system for the weight doesn't work? What if it doesn't work and the pilot can't get their foot out of the loop? What would having a bunch of weight on one leg do to the opening? It would be a neat experiment, but it would take a lot of work to get a workable system. At some point the amount of work it would take to gt it right would be too much for the result you would get out of it. Derek

So, you want to be a rigger? - This might help. Derek

Having the steering lines finger trapped and bar-tacked is new. I haven't seen PD do that before (but I do wish they would do it on their reserves). To adjust them is fairly easy. A seam ripper is used to remove the bar tack. The finger-trap is un-done and re-done to the length desired. Then it is either re-bar tacked, zig-zagged, or the new 'no-sew finger trap (depending on the type of line). 10 minutes of work, or less. Derek

The 'non-slip' material has been used in making a lot of canopies without a problem. It may be a cost issue, an availability issue, a QC issue, etc. Please don't perpetuate rumors. Derek

In the USA, the FAA considers the flight time compensation. I have a case sitting in front of me dated August 21, 1997, where the pilot was found to be in violation for flying jumpers at a club with a private pilot's license. Derek