Canuck

It's a tough one. Jump #'s don't mean much really. A person could have 1000 jumps, but 900 of them be CRW - how much will that help with Tandem video. Before I videod a Tandem, I had probably chased 50, and learned the ideosyncrasies of how they fly. I would ALWAYS leave early to make sure I was NEVER above them, and for the first 10 or 20, I wouldn't get closer than 10 or 15 feet. As I got more competent I started docking on the passenger, orbiting around, etc. By the time I actually had the opportunity to video one, our tm's were totally comfortable with my ability to fly safely and closely to a tandem. Seems like a logical progression to me. By the way, I did have over 500 jumps before I strapped a camera to my head. Canuck

I would say the fixed 28. As has been discussed here before, gnerally the lense quality will be better on a fixed lens, and most likely it is lighter and smaller. There will be very few, if any, times for skydiving application that you will use the zoom capeabilities of the 28-105. Spend the few extra bucks. Canuck

I know a few guys that jump them - freeflyers for the most part who don't look at them at all in freefall, and use them more for checking altitude on the climb and under canopy. Also, lots of competative swoopers have pre-determined altitudes at which they begin their turn to final, and they are great for that type of application - waterproof and acurate to about 10 feet. I want one. Canuck

I contacted Simon at Icarus, and he sent me a full specs sheet for my Crossfire 119 right away - he was really good about it. Previous to that, I tried to get the info from a dude named Mel at Skyworks, but after a bunch of hounding, the best I got from him were the specs for the lower control lines. I can understand why they don't just give this info out to anybody though. Do you have a master rigger friend who could call and ask for you? Canuck

There is another dude with one of these on page 20 of March's Parachutist - much taller than a regular flat top pro. Canuck

Have you flown an original Crossfire?!! They don't flatten out quickly at all, nothing like a Stiletto or Cobalt. For a non-crossbraced canopy, they have a very long recovery arc. Anybody who jumps one, and has also jumped a Stiletto and/or Cobalt will attest to that. I haven't jumped a Crossfire 2, but according to all the guys (and one girl) on the Swiss team (Icarus sponsored) it's even more of a diver. Canuck

Ray, I'm confused by your rating system. Are you saying that your Sony .6 is wider than the Diamond .5 and Kenko .43? Canuck

It's all mounted and ready to go. I use a TRV 17, my other d-box was custom for that camera. This one I believe is more generic. Size is about the same, just a little longer (which is why I got it, my old one didn't offer any protection for my lens). Height, width, etc, all about the same - it just looks bigger because it's one piece instead of two. Mount it like you would any d-box - the helmet I put it on was already drilled so I lined up one of the holes and re-drilled the rest on the d-box. The box comes with t-nuts and screws. The cable sits flush with the back of the box, and you would really have to tug on it to make the box open without taking the one end out of the keeper. I don't see it as any more of a safety/protective issue than the straps/buckle on the older d-boxes. Now that I've played with it a bit, I can open and close faster than I can with my other one. Bonehead sent lots of foam so I padded the inside wherever it needed it and now the camera fits sweet! Now that all is said and done, I really like it! I'd get another for sure. Canuck

Fedex just delivered mine today. Looks nice and clean, much better aesthetics than my old one. Not sure what I think about the hinge system - it might be a bit fiddly opening and closing the box, although the velcro and buckle can be too. Mounts totally flush and doesn't have any snaggy areas. Different than my last one, I need to add all the foam myself, but that's no big deal at all. Also, the back is almost entirely cut out so you wont need to drill a hole to see the viewfinder. In fact, you could probably change the battery without taking the camera out of the box. Once I actually mount it and try putting a camera in, I'll give some more details, but for now, I would say I like it better than the previous style. Canuck

And again....what does this have to do with Brian's new canopy... A cool thread idea, but lets make it its own so people like me don't keep opening this one hoping for some insight on the Sensei Cauck

I just bought a Hawkeye top mount that has already been drilled for a d-box. I assume the holes on my d-box aren't going to match up. Anybody out there have any good tips for fiberglass repair, or do you think it would be better to mount the d-box on a new plate of some type, and then screw the plate on to the top of the helmet? Someone...anyone...? Thanks. Canuck

Question for ya Dan. You say earlier in this thread that the Cobalt 170 was designed slightly differently so that it would open faster. So, rather than making all the 170's competition cobalts, why wouldn't you just start building the 170's like all the other sizes? Surely this is possible as you explained to me a year ago how ALL cobalts are geometrically scaled and open the same when I wrote to you concerned about the 105's that were said to open hard. So......? Canuck

The Sony .6 is exactly what you are looking for. For 4-way sitting about 8 feet above with the .6 everything is framed nicely. It's also a resonably small/light/low profile lens, doesn't have any vignetting or image distortion, and is reasonably inexpensive (more than a kenko, less than a diamond). I use mine for freefly too. It's OK for outside video, not great once you start docking and taking grips. Also great for tandems. I find the field is very similar to my still cam set at 28. Canuck

Hey nic - here's what I think you should do. Spend a little time talking to some experienced jumpers and/or riggers at your DZ. No offence dude, but your info on these two canopies is a bit off. You say both are "full perosity" when in fact they are both "zero perosity." The Spectre is 7 cell, the Turbo ZX is 9. The Spectre is a current canopy, the TZX is a few years out of date. The Spectre will have a way better resale value in 100 jumps. Don't rush that first rig purchase. I remember the feeling well - you think it's the only good deal that you're gonna find. IT'S NOT!!! There are always great deals on second hand rigs. Canuck

Sorry dude, a Conguest with over 1000 jumps on it isn't worth much. I've seen them with like 600 jumps sell for 3 to 4 hundred dollars through Sunshine, Paragear, etc. Probably lucky to get a couple hundred depending what the lines look like. Now, more importantly - if this is your first canopy and you have only put 60 jumps on it, why would you even consider buying a Stiletto. Canopy Nazis, open up a can of whoop ass on this dude!! Canuck

When I got my Flat Top Pro, I ordered a bite switch and quickly found out that the helmet moves WAY too much with that kind of jaw movement, so I got the tongue switch instead. First one sprung a leak and became unreliable, I'm on to #2. I like it, but I never really know how many pictures I get until I'm on the ground and check the counter on the camera. I've considered going hand held (even bought the parts) but I really like being hands free. I wonder if I send my leaky switch back to Conceptus if they will reimburse me? Canuck

Jeremy Peters (Airspeed video) lands his Stiletto 97 just on risers when the set-up is right , but he probably only weighs about a buck 30. How are you liking the Velocity's Chuck? As compared to the Xoas you were jumping? The Cobalt? It will bw interesting to see how you do on the tour this year with a cross braced over your head. Good luck!!! Canuck

I know we have been over this, but let's do it again anyway. For those of you still using 35mm cameras, what settings/priority and film do you use for everyday shooting (ie tandems). I've always been happy with the results I get with my Canon Rebel with 400 iso and in basic "point and shoot mode", but perhaps I would be even happier by using a shutter priority and say 200 film? So, what do ya use? Canuck

I've put 800+ jumps on mine, and given it several good bangs - still works great. Like Lisa said, it does often read different than alti 2's at altitude, but I've noticed it matches up with the planes altimeter (once you do trhe math of course). Good deal. Canuck

I use the Sony .6 and am happy with it, but, I'm on a 182 dropzone and basically do one on ones and Tandem video. No fisheye, no vignette. Canuck

Always been curious about that. What size of Stiletto was Rickster swooping over the lake and into the hanger in Antigravity? And he's not a big guy - I wonder what the wingloading was? Goes to show, technique goes a long way. Canuck

I had a Blade Runner which was the predecessor to the Hurricane and really liked it. Very similar to a Stiletto, but trimmed steeper so it flew a bit faster and dove a bit harder. If the Hurricane is an improvement on the Blade Runner design, then I would guess the canopy is more in the Crossfire/Cobalt category - better openings, more bottom end lift. As far as Chute Shop goes, they do seem to be hard to get a hold of, but I really don't think their customer service is bad. A guy at my DZ used to jump Chute Shop Reflex's. Twice he blew them up, and twice they sent him new ones. Know, that doesn't say much for the fabric they were using, but unless I'm mistaking they use Gelvenor now which is also used by Atair and Aerodyne. All that said, I'm not sure I would buy from them again. I only bought the Blade Runner because I knew the local dealer and got a great deal on it. Canuck

I'm not rigger rob, but I can answer this question for you. No, you don't need to pack the Voodoo lines up. I think when the Voodoo first came out, RI might have recomended it, but they have since chnaged their minds and said pack the d-bag either way. This is first hand from RI when I got my Voodoo a couple years ago. Most people I know who jump a Voodoo pack it lines down. That said, I do pack mine lines up. I find it easier with the tapered bottom to get the bag and lines in neatly doing it that way, anf get great openings too - although that may have more to do with my totaly sweet Crossfire! Canuck

A buddy has one, and really likes his, but a couple things to take note of. 1. Earlier models had a plastic hinge that had a tendency to break - especially in cold temperatures. They then switched to stainless steel with much better results. 2. I have twice been on dives with my friend and seen mild freefall contact pop the back latch open. He saved the helmet both times, but he was shittin.' But like I said - he loves it. Canuck

10 years ago, rigs had very poor pin protection as compared to today. A CRW flap referred to a reserve flap that "tucked in" at the bottom, which is now standard on basically every rig out there. CRW standing for Canopy Relative Work, and the importance being that it was pretty easy to open the reserve flap and possibly dislodge the pin during a dock without some type of extra protection. Lots of CRW dogs had their rigs modified in the early days - now there is really no need. Slightly passe lingo in today's day and age. Canuck