dragon2

Make sure if you get the big wings, to not pull your pc through them We had a (couple thousand jump) cameraguy manage that a couple weeks back And people have had AAD saves after that before, or even gone in. So, don't. Make sure your wings fit you properly and reach OVER them to pull not THROUGH them. ciel bleu, Saskia

Um, yeah, you're missing some stuff 1) the CX700 has OIS (like is talked about in this thread) 2) no more firewire 3) no more (straight-up) use of a came-eye (buy either a hype-eye or a converter) 4) no more copying to-from cameras and no copying from pc to camera either ciel bleu, Saskia

Haven't had that particular problem before, but using the rescue tool that comes free with SanDisk Extreme III/IV/Ducati cards, I've gotten quite a number of pictures back from memorycards (as well as harddrives, with the software protesting about it but still working). If there's anything left on that card, that software will find it (as well as a lot of older stuff you deleted, too). ciel bleu, Saskia

it's a little console app, in c# ciel bleu, Saskia

OK I had a go at that. Mine is fairly customizable, haven't tested it out in the real world yet. Any1 want to try it? ciel bleu, Saskia

LOL this phone is now making an appearance in at least 3 different forums on here ciel bleu, Saskia

I do a copy/paste by hand. So far, been too lazy to try and write a macro to do it ciel bleu, Saskia

I use: for tandems: YYYYMM\tandems\DD\number+name\video folder\stills folder for a team: YYYYMM\teamname\DD\video folder\stills folder etc. ciel bleu, Saskia

+1 ciel bleu, Saskia

If you have windows 7 or vista, check out All Programs > Accessories > Snipping Tool. Drag a rectangle around the screen area you want, and save. All done ciel bleu, Saskia

And those that posted an image of their score might have taken the test three or four times, looking up the answers along the way, before capturing that image of a final high score. It proves nothing. I didn't, that dumb test took up quite enough of my time doing it once ciel bleu, Saskia

Try doing it in a language other than your first ciel bleu, Saskia

That means you have nothing to suggest wuffos are dropping from the sky under flea market fear on an even rare basis. People do stupid shit every day. How many of them are wuffos jumping flea market gear? Is this really a problem? Seriously? Do you have a remote basis for your comment? ETA to pile on: find one example of a whuffo hurt on skydiving gear for every 20 skydivers who have done reckless, thoughtless, uneducated, dumb-assed shit when they should have known better and then bring the "whuffos are stupid" attitude. It's arrogant bullshit. Actually, we have a number of people jumping rounds at our DZ (and others), most of those belong to one of the clubs and jump that club's gear but some buy their own (using ebay????). And in some cases, yes that's a problem. And yes, most of the round guys are what I'd call whuffo's No idea about gear, no respect for gear, no respect for other skydivers, not much respect for safety. Not saying it's all of them, but there have been a couple incidents and close calls with round jumpers so we tend to keep a much closer eye on them these days whenever they're at our DZ. ciel bleu, Saskia

I had the same thing happening when I was getting my fusion 120 relines last year: the lineset they sent and labeled as 120 turned out to be for a (much) bigger canopy, there was about a foot difference in length Luckily my rigger compared the linesets before installing the new one

If you can't frontriser without the canopy bucking, your steering lines are very likely set too short. You can check this yourself: In full flight, first clear your airspace then look up at your tail. There should be a small bow in your steering lines. Hit the brakes (full brakes), let up on the brakes and quickly (!) pull down both your frontrisers as far as you can. Now look up again. The tail should not be deflected any. If the tail is deflected you're diving but also braking at the same time, causing bucking. If you need to let out the steering lines, do so a little at a time and check the canopy again after each adjustment until you get it right. As far as flaring goes, a safire needs to be flared quite deep to hit the sweet spot, and you want to do a 2stage flare (not a student type flare-in-one-go). If you weren't taught how to do this, go ask an instructor about it and also get some video of your landings, as chances are it's not the canopy that's the problem. This is also why you need to let out the brakes in smalllish increments: you need to flare deeper with longer steering lines and you need to be able to do that (have long enough arms), so YOU need to figure out how long your steering lines should be since you're the one flying it. ciel bleu, Saskia

I really hate the loose goggles... See attachment from last friday. This TM has now been warned (again) to use proper goggles or at least change out the elastic for bungee. I've warned this same TM before in the door about missing goggles, but usually he "just" has the loose ones (Hey I got another 60 of those!). Today we lost an over-the-glasses goggle + the glasses, because the passenger was trying for some reason to adjust the goggle in freefall and let air underneath, poof gone. Not the TMs fault IMO, in this case. But yeah, in general it seems it's always the same TMs who have the issues. ciel bleu, Saskia

When I was taught this they also said to keep the same compensation in the brakes all the way through the flare i.e. if you are holding the right toggle down 6 inches to maintain straight level flight then you must keep the right toggle 6 inches lower through the flare to continue keeping the wing level Correct, which can be tough to do... I had 300-ish jumps at the time, and was jumping a 128sqft reserve @ 1.2 WL. I broke my nose landing on it, when I had to land my reserve with closed endcells that required about 3/4 input on my right brake to fly straight. I hooked myself into the ground to the left ciel bleu, Saskia

With that combo, a raynox hd3030-series pro lens matches up nicely. ciel bleu, Saskia

Getting in the shoes of your instructor here, but since you posted this.... What were you taught about "not so much"? Over here it's: pump your brakes twice, if problem not solved (ie, canopy is still not square), go to reserve. Like mentioned above, you got away with landing a malfunction, but i hope you think about handling a similar situation differently next time. Controllable means: being able to do a full 360 turn left, a full 360 turn right, and flaring. Sounds like you had 1 out of 3. Which should have meant a reserve ride... Regardless of what the malfunction may be called, that doesn't matter at all if your canopy fails any of these 3 test: there, square and going straight. Sounds like you got lucky this time. ciel bleu, Saskia

If it's brand new, I'd send it back to the manufacturer/dealer. ciel bleu, Saskia

You can turn off image stabilisation in the menu of course, but because it's optical and not electronical, the lenses can still physically move. They probably WILL move in freefall, especially when back/head-up flying. Hence the whole "warning" against using a camera with OIS for skydiving. ciel bleu, Saskia

Which lens to get depends on how close you fly. The opteka .3 is good for inside video, coaching etc or in-your-face tandems. The raynox pro .5 is good if you fly a good bit further away, filming tandems, FS4 etc. The raynox pro .3 falls in the middle of these 2 lenses, good for just about anything, provided you fly fairly close. For OIS, which is Optical Steady Shot image stabilization, do a search on this forum. Preferably you want a camera with EIS (especially for headup/backflying), so it's best to avoid the OIS cameras for skydiving. ciel bleu, Saskia

PAL as such doesn't apply to HD cameras, these days the difference is just framerate. Which is less of a hassle to convert than PAL-NTSC was. But if you want to buy the right camera, the Sony HDR-CX150 records at 60Hz, while the Sony HDR-CX150E records in 50Hz (for Europe, Australia etc). So you want a sony model with an "E" at the end for PAL countries. ciel bleu, Saskia

I jumped with a ruptured eardrum for a few jumps (not a smart move). I don't recall being bothered by noise or having trouble clearing my ears. The thing bothering me most was the tickling of the wind, that was real annoying and distracting, like someone sticking a feather in your ear and twirling it around. 2 days after the rupturing I visited my doctor for a checkup, and my ear had healed already. My doc did diagnose me as having sinusitis though so couldn't jump because of that for a while. If your ear was ruptured a few days back and still hasn't healed, I'd be consulting my doc for sure. And if you're going to jump, likewise. I'm not sure you should be plugging anything in a ruptured ear, but again, please consult your doc. ciel bleu, Saskia

If you're a tandem vidiot and you pull close (horizontally I mean) to a tandem, you better make sure the opening looks good. If I'm not sure, I'll backslide away from the tandem some more before pulling. Don't be fooled a tandem vidiot "just" pulls straight after and close to the tandem pair. Or if they are, they should get talking to ciel bleu, Saskia