ihateskydivers

Dude, don't bake the helmet...just the inside.

NEVER NEVER NEVER TURN YOUR HEAD!!! The quickest way to breaking your neck is to turn 90 degrees and have a 'shotgun' opening! Just lean your head forward (you can still support your head with your palms if you like that). Lean your head forward enough to where your risers will not slap the camera. You can practice this on the ground to see.

What does 'dodgy' mean? Does this happen with the Cam Eye 2? (do you have one available to test?)

BAD idea to go out and buy an expensive SLR especially Digital SLR. Just like with video, when you add something more to your head get something cheaper. When your starting, you have a much greater chance of bangin it around or slamming it exiting the plane. Once your comfey with the cheap stuff, start adding. By then you'll have a better idea. For tandem videos, it is not economical go get a digital camera, (NOW, which is not to say that the future is otherwise). After a tandem shoot (the paying kind!!!) you usually hand over the $1 roll of film over to the student for them to develop. Wasting your time and money downloading to disks, or email, or $$$ printing is a waste. Stay one step behind technology and you'll save a bundle. Stick with Canon (because it's LIGHT), all other camera brands are just peachy except for the weight. Make sure the motor drive on your auto-focus can keep up with your flying. The Elan, and EOS models are great, some Rebels are OK. This won't matter if you manually focus, but it can limit your flying to focus. Make sure your lens has ultrasonic technology (Canon, Tamron...etc) so the autofocus can keep up with the motor. Fixed lenses can be slow. Make sure your bite switch is mono so it continually tries to focus, most new Conceptus Switches are plug and play, you have to special order stereo plugs. Good luck

Depends on how tight your flyin. If your docked quick and flyin tight to pull a .3 is the way to go. If you like flying outside camera .42 or even .5. If your skills are medium, stick with a .42, it's versitle and it won't make your friends look 50 feet away when they are 5. Remember your depth of field expands when the lens gets tighter (smaller apt)

You will probably use a site at first but you'll loose it eventually (i.e. you won't need it anymore, you'll know where the shot is) Just don't become 'that guy' with the paper asshole on your goggles!!! Top or side are just as good, depends on what your comfey with, especially when deploying.

Sony's are popular because they have really good saudering connections (open cameras with wind blowing inside) and the 37mm lens attachment is popular. They use Karl Zeus glass, and have outstanding steadyshot. They are tough. TRV or PC series are great MiniDVs Sony's Hi8 and Digital8 are really top notch as well. Sony's weak points are where the lens connects (hit the wide angle and you can rip it apart)...also their on/off switch can become weak over time. Just use a CamEye2 whenever possible to extend the life. Always be wary of taping them up and collecting mositure, even Sony's can be distroyed in humid climates with this old school technique. Most closed boxes by helmet manufacturers are type specific for Sony.

I haven't heard of anyone flying it. So skip the opinions, wait for someone to fly it and give an opinion and fact of in-air operation