spoons

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Everything posted by spoons

  1. That's normal for a sabre2- Here's a couple of relevenat links, see a recent thread here or a video on the PD website here
  2. I've had it happen twice to me - once whilst a student someone packed me an inversion, this didn't cause me any problems but I was very confused under canopy! Second one was more recent where I was demoing a main canopy, I wasn't allowed to pack it so again got a packer to do so. Once I opened I realised one of the risers had a full twist in it (just one riser!) - so basically the rigger had put the lines onto the riser with a full twist...again no problems other than a little confusion and cursing I can understand how both these can be overlooked if people rush and don't pay enough attention...
  3. I relined a Safire a little while back (a year or 2) and yip I remember it being pretty expensive too - although I'm sure I only paid £20 in rigging expenses (on top of the new line set).
  4. I bought a suit in April and received it in June (picked up from Spain). My brother also did the same with no probelms what so ever. As far as I could tell, Sonic were doing fantastically and I think just recently moved workshops - maybe this is why there is a little bit of a delay? In my exeprience, Sonic have always been very good in replying to emails/phone calls/txts. Seems a little strange!
  5. My sabre2 frequently does that too - I find pulling the rear risers together and down a little (kinda pumping them) tends to pop the slider down that last little bit. Never really been a problem.
  6. Synthesis Alan Mackay, Graeme Mackay and Rob Simpson (v)
  7. I had a similar incident to this, however I managed to clear the problem fairly quickly so didn't need to cut away. Basically, I had been setting my brakes before uncollapsing and moving my slider; so when I was pulling my slider over the brakes it was pushing the toggle further into the brake set loop. This made the loop go over a softer part of the toggle and on one jump it got stuck - fortunately after a few hard pulls (at the correct sideways angle :S) it came unstuck. I'm a bit more careful when it comes to where the set loop sits on my toggle now!
  8. Wouldn't it be a better idea to do your turn to the direction that gives you the most 'outs' in case you have to abort the turn at somepoint...don't want to be swooping towards something like a fence or building!
  9. I agree with what you're saying, but I just thought I'd mention that tunnel time isn't strictly necessary - I've managed without any tunnel time
  10. Just wondering what game/site do you guys use? (ladbrokes.com requires installing all sorts of crap!)...
  11. 806 bhp in the states...but 850bhp in europe since our fuel has a higher octane rating
  12. I tried to find the same thing a while back - in this thread: http://www.dropzone.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=1264088;#1264088 User GroundZero was kind enough to email me the specs sheet
  13. Just wondering what the current cost for a normal packjob at Empuria is? Cheers, Alan.
  14. I just thought 1 mal every 70 jumps is quite a lot...never mind
  15. Don't mean to hijack, but you have 5 reserve rides? Isn't that quite a lot for the number of jumps you have made?
  16. On my sabre2 135, loaded at about 1.5 (thanks to a heavy christmas diet ) a 90 degree turn uses up about 370ft - I thought that was a fair chunk but I've tried a few times at altitude and it comes out more or less the same every time...it's not a ridiculously slow turn either, taking only 2-3 seconds for the turn. This seems quite different from your sabre 135, once the temperature gets back up above -20 degrees celcius i'll do some more high hop n pops and work out what the 180s loose
  17. I had a similar problem with my rig - the sheaths (if that is the right word ...i thought they were the hard housings!) expand and contract and do all sorts of things whilst being packed and jumped and so on...this caused the excess cable that is normally in the riser inserts to be used up in the sheath and made my left (the RSL side ) pop out of the risers insert a couple of times on opening. I've since got a temporary cut away pad and cables (friendly rigger
  18. You misunderstood what I said i think...I didn't mean an analgue alti is hard to read nor did I mean it wasn't accurate...I meant the scale is a bit small to be read accurately - especially under 1000ft. Using, for example, a Neptune - it is much easier to accurately read under canopy. At least that's what I think
  19. my HB insurance was only about £100, it depends on the value of the items of course...think my total was £2500.
  20. yeah i know it is smaller, i thought everybody knew they were now! My 149 was more like a 140, but it still packed up the same size or smaller than my sabre2 135 is what i meant
  21. If i were buying a new reserve (out of the two choicies) - I would buy a Smart reserve since I've heard good things about them and they have good reinforcment too (spanwise). Just my opinion.
  22. Paypal is easy, but I just sold a canopy by wire transfer and that was quite easy too. However it doesn't solve the problem of the actual transfer. If I were a seller I certainly wouldn't send something out without first receiving payment. Whenever I've bought stuff I've just trusted the seller, fortunately it's worked so far
  23. what about scottish, irish, welsh, australian etc...
  24. so maybe that raises the question - what do you want from your altimeter...accuracy or 'patterns'. For me, I like my neptune - however for someone who is just starting out jumping I can see how an analogue altimeter may be a better choice.