skybytch

Yeah, not much I could tell my 18 year old self, but I'd tell my 17 year old self to always use birth control in the month of March.

Twenty three posts for a thread about HH to disintegrate into posting pics of Sunny's tits. I'm less than impressed with you, Phree. What took so long?

No.

If the rig has a square reserve, $600 is probably a fair deal. You probably don't want a round reserve. Here are a few things to know/think about before buying it. - The Raider is an all-F111 nine cell. Don't load it over 1.0 (i.e. if your exit weight - body weight plus about 20 pounds for gear - is 220 or more, don't jump it). If it has more than 500 jumps on it, it will probably have very little flare. - You "can" freefly with a Vector II. Do a search in this forum; there have been quite a few threads on that subject. Be aware that even with the modifications people have had issues freeflying with older-style Vectors. You don't want to freefly with a Vector I. - The reserve is likely an older model. Do not load an older model reserve over 1.0. They were not designed for higher wingloadings. If a rigger says it's airworthy and you really can't afford anything newer/more modern, that rig might be a good way to get you up in the air. I'd suggest saving up to buy a used zp main as soon as possible, though, then replace the container and reserve before you start to really get into freeflying.

I writes purty good. I bake a mean batch of oatmeal and chocolate chip cookies. I can clean a window with a squeegee without leaving streaks.

I will if you want me to, but I'd prefer to congratulate you for staying on the ground when the conditions weren't right for your experience/comfort level. Personally I'm a big chicken too. When students go on wind hold, I like to grab the video camera and catch the carnage in the landing area for our year end video instead of jumping.

Get the kill line p/c and get hip rings on the harness. The rings will make you more comfortable. The collapsible p/c allows your canopy to fly without dragging around an inflated "sky anchor" - you want this, even if you don't ever plan to swoop. You can do without the back padding and hackey if money is an issue - the back padding doesn't add that much comfort considering how much they want for it and the hackey is pretty much a cosmetic option (the standard plastic handle works fine). The kill line p/c and hip rings will make the rig much more attractive for resale if/when you sell it. One note on custom embroidery - it's your rig, if you want stuff embroidered on it, get it. The ring covers (mud flaps) and cutaway handle are easily replaced if a buyer doesn't like whatever you put on there.

Square 3 at Cross Keys can probably help you out.

You have parachute envy, don't you? Yeah, you just wish you had a parachute this small.

Damn, girl. You look goooood for your age. Love ya. Hope you have a kick ass day.

Happy happy birthday Now eat your fucking cake! Happy happy birthday Or we'll punch you in the face!

Flite Suit offers one (they call it the Brandi Belt). Works just as good as built in swoop cords do.

He's adorable! So tiny. Welcome to the world, Aiden.

Yup. Me, GFD, vdschoor, Ballsack, Geno, Amazon, dgskydive and avgjoe.

This is my current one, from the dz.com gathering at Perris, Memorial Day 2004. Photo by Deuce. Some special people are in this pic...

Further proof that Jim Morrison was correct when he said "The west is the best. Get here, we'll do the rest."

Sweet! Congrats!

Thanks for the comments.

Why do you make your approach with the brakes at your ears?

Because if the manufacturer does the work, the jumper can be pretty sure that it was done right. If a novice jumper doesn't yet know or trust the rigger(s) in his/her area, returning the gear to the manufacturer is, imho, the best thing they could do. I'm not saying that it couldn't be done correctly in the field - of course it can be. But it being done in the field is the most likely explanation for why a lanyard of the incorrect length was installed in the first place.

He had no business being there and he needs to know exactly why he had no business being there. But you're probably not the best person to tell him. Talk to the CCI and let him/her handle it.

You can put a box from Bonehead on your Velocity. What's the rush? Why not wait until you feel that you are "that experienced"?

*This post references USPA's student program and A license requirements. If you aren't jumping in the US (or in some cases, even if you are), the following may or may not apply to you* Different dz's use different words to describe the "grey area" between completing the AFF/IAD/SL program ("graduating") and getting an A license. They might say that you are "cleared to self jumpmaster" or "off student status." Regardless of which words are used, you can now jump by yourself. So what's next? - If you don't already have one, get a copy of USPA's SIM (Skydiver's Information Manual). It's available for purchase through USPA and many gear dealers; it's also available for download in pdf format at USPA's website. You'll need this information to pass the written license tests. - Read the SIM. Pay special attention to sections 2 - 6. If you have questions about anything you read ask an instructor at your dz. - Pick up a copy of Brian Germain's book "The Parachute and it's Pilot." It's available at many gear dealers or direct from Brian. Read it before your next skydive, and include one or more of the canopy drills in your plan for future jumps. - Now's the time to start buying some of the stuff you need if you haven't already. Order a jumpsuit (see this article for some tips). Get a visual altimeter, a helmet, some goggles and maybe a pair of gloves. Start researching containers, reserves, AAD's and mains (lots of information on choosing your rig here.) Talk about equipment choices with your instructors, local riggers, gear dealers (both local and the nationwide ones), and other experienced jumpers, but always take what other jumpers have to say about gear with a grain of salt (just because I jump it does not mean it's the best choice for YOU). You can go ahead and buy a rig now, but I wouldn't suggest it. You'll probably need to downsize from the canopies you've been jumping to the size canopy that will keep you happy and safe for your first couple hundred jumps, and you'll definitely be happier with what you get if you jump a number of different container brands and main canopy types/brands before buying. There is no magic jump number at which time it's best to have your own rig; it really depends on what rental/demo options are available and how much rental costs at the dz you jump at. - Preplan everything about every skydive, from climb out to walking back to the packing area - yes, even solos. - For your first jump after graduating, do a low pressure solo; don't plan to do much other than survive and have fun. Do whichever exit you like best. Practice turns if you'd like, but most importantly take some time to just enjoy the feeling of being alone in freefall. Pull at the same altitude you've been pulling at. Land safely after flying your preplanned pattern. - For your next 5 jumps, do solos but focus more on canopy control than on freefall manuevers. Plan to pull high (8000 feet or so) - be sure to let others on your load know when you plan to pull; you'll likely be exiting last or close to last. Do whatever kind of exit you want to do (mix it up a bit; do a diving exit on one, a poised exit on the next, a cannonball on the next, etc). Work on starting/stopping turns until it's time to pull. Once you have a good canopy and are sure you'll make the landing area, it's time to play with your canopy. Remember the canopy drills you did on your student jumps (they are listed on your A license card)? This is the time to practice them. If you don't understand how to do certain things, get with an instructor and find out. Plan what you are going to do under canopy before you get on the plane. On every jump, practice flaring up high. Get an instructor to explain the "accuracy trick" and flat turns to you; time spent practicing using the accuracy trick and doing flat turns can definitely save you long walks and possibly even save you from injury or death in the future. - This is the time to learn to pack. Your dz may offer packing classes or you may need to arrange packing instruction on your own. - This is also the time to start hanging out at the dropzone more than you have before. There are a couple of reasons for this. First, the more you hang out, the more chance other jumpers have to get to know you; the more we get to know you, the more likely it is that we're going to ask you to jump with us. Second, by hanging out at the dz (especially post-sunset) you are increasing your opportunities to interact with instructors, riggers and other very experienced jumpers when they aren't busy instructing, packing and/or jumping. You can learn a lot from them, and it won't cost you much more than a few beers. - After you've done a handful of solos, get with a coach or instructor and get the two "coach" jumps done. - After doing the coach jumps, spend the next two or three jumps working on turns, recovering from instability and tracking in freefall and all of the canopy control skills you've been working on. - If possible, do a couple of RW two ways with a coach, an instructor or with a D license holder who has the S&TA's okay to jump with pre-A license jumpers. - Do the required hop and pops. - Do the check dive, take the test and get that card stamped. You're now an A license holder!

Holsteins and Jerseys are dairy breeds, not beef breeds. Beef breeds include Hereford, Angus, Brahman, Santa Gertrudis, Charolais, Limousin, Beef Shorthorn, Red Poll, and Brangus, amongst others. The difference is that dairy cattle are bred for increased milk production; beef cattle are bred for size and muscle in the areas where more expensive cuts of meat come from.