floormonkey

He wasn't grounded for just one thing, and it was just for the afternoon. Sometimes someone needs to sit for a bit to get their head back into the game. If you weren't there, how can you decide whether it was appropriate? Do you have the information about all the other jumps he made that day? Or even about that specific jump? Or even what time it happened? How many loads did he really miss? Was it effective? How was his next jump? Until you have spent a large amount of time instructing, you may not have learned that different people learn via different motivators. If someone wants to jump but keeps doing [the same] stupid shit, perhaps a short ride the bench is in order. If someone is scared, sometimes a little encouragement to get back in the air the same day is the best tool. We have a big bag of tools, and we pull out the ones that work best for the job at hand. Now, if the OP was a different person with different motivators, perhaps a different tool would have been appropriate. In this case, a short grounding was an excellent tool for communicating the severity of his actions.

Performance Designs Reserves are made in Honduras, as are some of their mains.

Assuming a lineset every 500ish jumps, I budget in a set of lowers-tog every lineset. If jumping a Spectra/Dacron lined canopy, I would plan on measuring (just brake lines) every 100-150 jumps, and probably extending my bk-tog at that time. If you know you're going to be pulling toggles more than the average jumper (spirals, high pulls, etc), you might even have your rigger make bk-tog with more excess so you can get an extra lengthen per line set/replacement. There is a way to make no sew replacements so you can have them ready, but immediate replacement is typically not as important on spectra/dacron lined canopies as it in on vectran/hma. Simply make the line and larkshead it on at the UCL cascade point. This does, however, add a small increase to the likelihood of a tension knot. Precision has been doing this for years and I've never heard of one happening there, so the increase is likely infinitesimal. An easy reckless eyeball method of checking line trim is to walk your canopy up like you are packing and look at the difference between the length of outside A-lines and inside A-lines (a1 and a4/5). When that difference hits 2.5-3", it's time to consider a lineset or at least have it looked at by an experienced rigger. Sabre 2's seem to get shrinkage a little earlier than others. If the other lines are still relatively close to factory and have worn consistently, you can just replace the outer. I have replaced the outer A/B's on many Sabre 2's to prevent slider hang up. This is NOT a substitute for a new lineset if needed, just a fix for one problem. As a jumper with short arms, I prefer an extra 2"'s on most Semi-elliptical/elliptical canopies. My Velocity's factory setting, however, seemed spot-on so I did not adjust it. If you are making a move towards high-performance flight, make sure your tools are maintained to the highest standards. Just like you wouldn't jump on a race track with spongy brakes, you shouldn't jump a canopy with shitty lines. There is at least one dead person and one paralyzed person who can (or could of) attest to this.

The place to start is factory settings. http://www.performancedesigns.com/products.asp?product=sa Read the "How to measure line trims" doc (listed under "Line trim"). Then look at the appropriate trim chart. How does the existing length measure up? Are your brake lines twisted? Do they have a built in twist from poor maintenance? Measure both bk-toggle length AND lower brake line length. Always check your starting point...

American Revolution Boogie, Skydive Dallas, July 4-9th, Skyvan, Otter, Caravan, DC-3, Helicopter, Load Organizers, Party, etc

Just because you see them tapping on the alti doesn't mean anything. It's probably them just killing time or showing off for the low timers. It is no different than looking at a digital or pressing a button on a digital. They are not bulletproof, but can survive substantially more damage than most if not all digital alti's. For instance, I have seen multiple digital's destroyed from being stepped on, but no analog's. As far as recognizing altitude...red zone means close to or below decision altitude. Having to focus on the number and read it while on your back spinning is not as easy as seeing a needle at the 2'o clock position and reacting. Granted, most people who have this type of malfunction are typically aware of altitude without needing an altimeter. As far as digital goes, I prefer the Neptune. I don't like the way the viso's mount, nor do I like the interface. It is also not easy to change the battery due to the mount provided. L&B, however, has a reputation of phenomenal customer service. Alti-2 has good customer service as well, but L&B is legendary.

Every skydiver should own an analog altimeter and clear goggles. These make excellent first skydiving purchases. You can use them for your entire skydiving career. Analog-great when batteries are dead and you are on a 2 minute call. Great to loan out if someone forgets theirs. Easy to recognize your altitude without actually having to process what the altitude is. Close to bulletproof, provided you don't throw it around like a teenager. Lens replaceable. Cheap. Doesn't need software updates. Rarely malfunctions if taken care of. I could go on.... Clear goggles-some jumps you need them. Sunset, night jumps, hazy days, etc. I've had the same analog alti for 10 years. I use a neptune as my primary. Can't even count the number of times I've loaned out our grabbed my analog because of short call or dead batts. Buy the $50 alti, spend the other $150 on jumps. When you have an extreme surplus of cash, buy the toys. Jumps will improve your skill faster than a cool alti.

I have an all charcoal rig. Backpad is black, so is the boc pouch

How about a "as high as safely possible on the jump I am on" option? Not all jumps are equal, without qualifying the type of jump you are doing the poll for it will be hard to get an honest assessment. Doing AFF I pull as soon as I can-sometimes that's 4500', sometimes it's 2000'. All other deployment altitudes depend on breakoff altitudes. Perhaps a better statement/question would be "What altitude do you prefer to pitch on an average skydive?"

Best way to become a GOOD instructor- Get a real job Make lots of money Teach something for a few years Do a bunch of skydives Do a bunch more skydives Then do it if you truly love teaching and like skydiving Fastest way to become AN instructor- Get a real job Make lots of money Spend it on skydives and tunnel time Get a rating and instruct until you burn out or get kicked out There are many other ways, and most of us probably used other ways. These are the best and fastest. If you're doing it for the money-don't. If you have a business idea-be the manager, not the labor. If you want to make money-go to school and get a real job. If you have to ask-well...if you don't know how to do research and find your own answers and resort to an internet forum to ask questions that can be solved by a simple search...

Recently saw a canopy where multiple line attachment points were like that-they were not hot knifed from the factory. Wear started to show at 25 jumps.

Support your local dealer. It's best for skydiving and your home dz overall.

take it to the dz this weekend, almost any rigger will be happy to check it out and help you out. If you don't want to wait, I know your listed home dz sells risers in the pro shop.

about hang gliding/paragliding helmets: Some very experienced people believe the ones with the wierd shape at the back (for increased aerodynamics) can actually make the helmet less safe in some instances. The idea is any rotational event would accelerate or increase due to the increased profile. On the Icaro page linked in the post before, some examples of this style are the 4fight and Cut3.

I jump an Icaro Fly. After much research, it seems to be the best helmet for protection outside of a motorized sport helmet. Weighs ~12 grams, not too bulky. http://www.icaro2000.com/Products/Helmets/Free-flight-models.htm It wasn't cheap ($~180), but it's cheaper than most of the "cool" skydiving helmets. I ordered it from them directly because I found the only US dealer to be unresponsive. The next best helmet is probably the Simpson Pole Vaulting Helmet, but I couldn't really get any reviews or info on it. It also has no vents, making warm plane rides even warmer. http://simpsonraceproducts.com/products/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=578_579&products_id=9146 Previous to this helmet, I jumped a Burton Trace Red helmet. Different helmets for different sports have protection in different areas of the helmet. Downhill skiing has full 360 protection. A $20 Protec will give you more impact protection than most (if not all) of the high-end skydiving helmets. PS-it's not the thickness of the padding but rather the substance of the padding.

When I have a student like that, I just get a Sharpie and put a big L on the back of his left hand and R on his right. Rarely do I go more than a month without doing it. The FJC instructor should catch that during drills. Easy fix, and cheap.

They "migrate" because someone didn't make sure they stayed in the middle. It usually happens during reduction folds. To get those pretty straight ones, lift up the tail after you make the reduction folds and put them back in the middle. Remember, contrary to what many jumpers think, canopies and their parts are inanimate objects that are subject to the laws of physics-they only move when moved or affected. Personally, I just don't pull on the tail enough to move them. Less work than having to reach in there again. One rigger I know used a 15 foot pull-up cord-he reached in and tied the D-lines together with a slip-knot, leaving the bitter end sticking out below the tail so he didn't have to lift it again. Other end was tied to a tool he needed to close the rig.

I put close to 700 jumps on this same helmet. I cut into one of the ear pads and put my audible inside of it. The problem you will run into is the pads slipping out of the helmet when you aren't wearing it (they are removable). I put some gaffers tape on the tab and it helped, but not completely. It was never enough of an issue for me to come up with a permanent fix.

My young cousin was standing on the rear bumper of a pickup truck. With the truck standing still, he jumped backwards off of it. He fell backwards, his head hit the ground. We unplugged him 3 days later. This was a jump from a static object, where the object jumped off was about 18" off the ground. He was about 5'6" tall, so that makes a distance traveled of around 7 feet with little or no velocity. The impact killed him. My half-shell protec weighs less than 12 oz and does not restrict vision in any way. I often reach up just to make sure I have it on because it is so light. How does that make for a more dangerous experience? If you think the only real danger in skydiving is the ground, then you obviously haven't been reading the incident forum.

The belts are still being made. Beg RiggerLee for one.

My AFFIRC included a precourse. I was at the course 8 days. I have yet to have a student put me through what my "graduation"/last eval jump was like...and I've had some students I'm pretty sure were trying to kill me. All the things you say should be taught were taught in the precourse. Sure, some people will go with the easier i/e, the same guys that looked for a blow off course in school. As far as allowing coaches on a nonrelease dive...I wouldn't have a coach on the other side of one of my jumps. The liability is too high if the student gets injured. Also, coaches haven't been taught spin stops, flipping over students, how to talk down a student on a radio, how to get a student of the plane in an emergency, and a host of other things even a freshly minted aff instructor has at least had some practice with or training for. And before you say "We'll train them", when? When they first get their rating at 200 jumps? or will you make a regulation that requires someone to train them on it when they get ready to do AFF? If you are treating a nonrelease dive as if a nonrated or lower skilled person can be on it, because you "only have to hold on," then you're going to get burned and you are part of the problem. All AFF jumps are about the student and can go to shit at any second. The student should not be put at extra risk so someone can "get some experience." Let the candidate take a precourse or buy some slots and get someone to teach him/her. To me, making that statement is tantamount to saying your student doesn't deserve the best you have available, and you are willing to take extra risks in an already dangerous sport.

quit trying to learn on the internet, and go watch some landings. if you can get a coach/instructor or an experienced jumper to watch with you and explain things, it will help a lot. especially from someone with 92 jumps. Yes, you can get a feel for it, but it is better to learn how to judge it based on what is going on. Also, it is helpful for most students to always use the same starting point (ckpt 1) altitude until you learn to judge wind conditions and your glide angle. Once you get the basics down, then start "doing it by feel."

So let's see...I said "generally". Also, you weren't asking for advice, you were just repeating an unverified claim, which I merely asked for documentation of. The OP, who the advice was written for, weighs 190lbs. Also, since you are already jumping a Techno 155, you really have no dog in this fight except to prove me wrong. You are right when you are talking about your situation. I, however, was not talking about your situation. Also, if you notice, I did not tell him not to do it, but just informed him of possible risks. In conclusion, if you'd like to talk about compatible main/reserve sizes, let's start a new thread and talk about it there. The original question was talking about "why is there a minimum wingloading requirement?"

That's why I said generally. That's also why I provided a reference to the technical report that that recommendation is based on, so that the jumper could make his own decision based on facts. This jumper (the OP the advice was meant for) is not jumping a small main. As for myself, when the shit hits the fan, I want bigger. I've had to land my reserve in a very small, tight spot due to a bad decision, and that event made me decide to not downsize my reserve regardless of my main size.

USPA recommends it, PIA recommends it, and most riggers (real riggers, not just fluff n stuffers) that I have met recommend it. I teach it in AFF. Please read the linked document for the reasons why. Some people may say "use the biggest reserve you can", however, they should be saying "use the biggest reserve that's compatible". Just because some people say to do it, doesn't mean they are right. The "experts" (read: the ones who have done the research) are the ones I prefer to follow. With that said, I jump a VE90 with an OP143 reserve. The A-lines have a 2 inch difference, and inflated, there will be about a 6 in difference between my top leading edges. I decided the risk was worth it as I didn't feel the 126 was comfortably survivable for me. I didn't say he shouldn't, I just want to make sure he's educated on the risks and can make that choice as an educated jumper, not as one who just does what he hears is safe around the bonfire. How about the risk of landing a two-out in an unstable configuration while incapacitated? Which happens more often, unconscious or two-out? Which is more likely for this jumper? (does he like to pull low or do zoo dives, or does he pull high and always do solos?) These are questions the OP should ask him/herself and evaluate. If we educate our jumpers using facts instead of rattling off opinions, perhaps our jumpers will stop killing themselves.