Deimian

This thread is painful to watch . 90% of videos of experienced jumpers are crap. 100% of videos of inexperienced jumpers are crap. Arguing so 0.01% of jumpers without 200 jumps can get crap videos is pointless. 99.9% of inexperienced jumpers arguing about the 200 jump limit for flying a camera are lame skydivers, even if their whuffo friends say otherwise. 100% of jumpers making 720s (edit: toggle-whipping 720s) are lame skydivers, with or without camera. JWest, I have the feeling that you are a nice guy. But you are being quite stubborn, arguing over something pointless. Stop wasting your time, talk less, listen more and have some fun jumping out of airplanes.

Either you or I do not completely understand the Skyhook system. Please explain how this could be? I do agree that what we are calling a "canopy transfer" in this thread is not really one at all. Collins lanyard. But I believe this has been corrected with the new double RSL (one red and one yellow). Not sure how it happened but I read the incident. The Collins lanyard cuts away the left riser if it is still there when the right riser leaves after a cutaway (like in a partial pull or when the right riser breaks below the RSL shackle). AFAIK, if there is no cutaway, the Collins lanyard does nothing, so pulling the reserve will simply cause the RPC to extract, the skyhook will disconnect (if for whatever reason it doesn't the RPC will keep trailing behind and the freebag might fall if there is no staging loop, I am not sure if all/any the skyhook rigs have one), and eventually the RPC will extract the freebag and the reserve will open. If I got right the sequence of events I don't see how a collins lanyard can possibly release a riser without cutting away the main first.

I don't think many people disagree with any of those statements. Certainly I don't. But I think you are missing the point/s: -The jump limits are not set thinking in the best skydivers, they are set thinking in the average. -People are pretty bad at assessing their own capacities. How do you know that you can handle a camera (and its distraction and what comes with it) better than the average skydiver? The answer is you can't. Experience in other situations do not fully translates to the sky. -You don't know what you don't know.

Sounds familiar. On my last jump in my previous canopy, when I already knew I was going to replace the canopy in the hangar, I was "daisy-chaining" it, right after landing, when it inflated again with a wind gust and pulled like a mofo, trapping my hand in the lines. My fingers were numb by the time I could take out the hand. It looked like revenge to me. I guess I deserve it Sorry for the off-topic

That is pretty stupid, IMO. If an AFF student on his first jump points at my chest strap while in the airplane and tells me that it is not properly routed I would blush, say thank you and shut up. I have 260 jumps. I hope I keep thinking and behaving like that my whole live. This "unwritten hierarchy" is not an excuse to have an idiotic attitude, neither being sloppy in your procedures.

I've jumped a Sabre 1 with stock slider 7 times last Sunday. My groin is fine, but my boxers didn't survive the day, they ended up with a ripped hole the size of my fist . I don't know if that helps or not .

To be honest I don't know, I wasn't there when he did it, but I can check next weekend, if I remember . I think there is enough space for pushing further the fingertrap. But I am not sure if stitching and unstitching over a spectra line, to stitch it again for an enlargement, can affect its integrity. The number of stitches per inch is quite high. Maybe a rigger can chip in, I don't know what is common practice.

I am not familiar with the steering lines length of the Pilot (I just jump them a couple of times). But alternatively, for this short of situations, you can see if getting longer risers is a solution for your case. Not so long that you can't reach the slider, but longer than the current ones. This way the distance between the edge of the tail and your arms at the bottom of the flare is increased, and has a similar effect to shortening the steering lines, without some of the problems that it *might* (not necessarily so) cause.

I agree, it shouldn't be a bit issue at all, just replacing the lower brake lines. BTW: Even with the shortened lines I couldn't stall it on breaks (I could have hold it longer and rotate my wrists, but with a normal completely deep flare hold for 4-5 seconds it didn't stall).

Just in case somebody reads this in the future: I've told my rigger to shorten the steering lines about 2 inches. It flares much nicer now. I am somehow worried that when the lines shrink it will be too short, but if that happens I'll take care of it :-).

Thank you for your comment. I'll let know my rigger then :-).

I guess you are talking about this one https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V_4Z1M_iG8o. I don't think the helmet of the guy that appears in the larger part of the video has any audible pocket. I don't know about the other one, but to me it looks like none of them had audibles.

A little bit of background: I've been jumping a Sabre 2 170 for some 150 jumps. I've got a good deal on a Sabre 1 150, with completely new lines, and I jumped on it. I also wanted something that opened a little bit faster than my Sabre 2, but I am now questioning how wise I was with that choice. But this is a different issue with a clear solution, and it doesn't bother me too much. Anyway, I am happy with the canopy overall (10-12 jumps on it so far). It flies great. But I find it a little bit lacking during shutdown on flare. It levels off without problem, but reducing horizontal speed in no wind is kind of a challenge. The sweet spot is a little bit below the chest level, and when ending the flare pulling the toggles all the way down it doesn't react too much, like it lacks energy, but horizontal airspeed is still relatively high. I stand up 60% of the jumps on the Sabre 1 150, and the 40% remaining (no wind and 1 downwind) I slid or run-and-fell. I have the feeling that there is more power left on the flare, but my arms can't get down there. I have my landings filmed, and I am really pulling all the way down. The steering lines have about 8 inches of slack on them. It is impossible to stall the canopy on toggles (tried at least 6 times, and it just flies really slow). My WL is ~1.25. I have jumped a Pilot 150, and controlling the flare and shutdown was not a problem at all, even with the slower speed of the Pilot. I have two alternatives, and I would like to gather opinions about them before bothering my rigger: 1: I adjust my technique. Most probably I am too used to the flare of my Sabre 2 and I have to get used to the flare of my new-old canopy. I was thinking and probably if I am more aggressive on the final stage of my flare I can get the extra kick I am looking for. I am not flaring slowly, but I can do it faster, or alternatively, sooner, to give half a second more to the canopy to react. In the air I can slow it down almost completely, so I guess the pilot of the canopy is the real issue :-P. 2: I adjust my steering lines. Maybe a couple of inches shorter can make the flare more similar to what I am used to. But I am not sure if line shrinkage can be a concern over time. I guess it wouldn't with 6 inches of slack, and even if it does, fixing it is easy, but hey! I don't know what I don't know. Opinions?

PCV in Belgium is a club with 3 DZs. It has one of the cheapest prices in Europe (16.5€ per jump for members of the club), great airplanes (2 Supervans and 1 Grand Caravan) and great people. The prices are cheap because it is a club, it is not intended to make money (besides covering costs and paying a little bit to the people that are working there as volunteers). All in all a great club, but it has a downside for you, normally it just opens on the weekends. I started AFF with 2 guys from Singapore in Skydive Spa 3 years ago. It is also in Belgium, reasonably priced, and opens the whole week in summer, so they'll might accommodate your needs better. I personally would stay in Sweden, but since you are asking for places in Europe....

But 'it' I assume you mean "Brian's method" of packing the PC. You assume right

It also gives you more chances to clear a horse shoe mal, and way less chances to have the bridle knotting shut the PC. I don't know why people doesn't use it more often.

Any opinions on the applicability of this design to RPC? Pilot chute instabilities don't seem that important to me except for top notch swoopers with twitchy canopies on inflation (or maybe some wingsuiters going against the general advice of avoiding elliptical canopies while wingsuiting), but I am wondering if this design can make a difference for somebody pulling their reserve handle while spinning and being close to the basement. Does it make any sense?

I am not a rigger, but I think this is the issue that forced manufacturers to reinforce Type 17 risers. My guess is that you can buy that container and a new set of risers a be fine with it. Just an extra word of caution: old gear might not be freefly friendly, in case you are into that.

If I take my time, it can take 15 minutes or so. If I hurry I can be down in 5 or 6 minutes. Just a remark: If the jump is a cross country (instead of a high pull at 12K somewhere close to the DZ) normally you don't want to hurry. Unless you don't want to make it back.

Looks great! Just a quick note for extra safety: As somebody told me here on the forums about my "safeish" sony mount, careful with the protruding screws inside the shell of the helmet. In case of impact on landing all the pressure can be concentrated in a very small surface, which can crack your skull. I ended up surrounding the screw of my mount with thermoplastic, kind of "raising" the shell so the screw doesn't protrude. This way the impact will be distributed in a larger surface.

If you have a sewing machine to sew the strap I don't see why it wouldn't. But finding the pulling tab under some circumstances (cold weather, with gloves and under a canopy with lines snagged in your helmet) might be tricky.

Looks to me like one pin coming out can easily dislodge the other one if just one riser gets released. Anyone more experienced want to comment?

I believe there is a new design for compal's Lazy Bag, relying completely on magnets (no tuck tabs). Just in case anybody is interested.

I see better now how it works. Mine also disconnects the clip altogether, but it holds it in place replacing the original screw with a button with a spring. The main difference is that "my" system (I saw it somewhere else before) requires to widen the hole of the original screw, whereas on your case you have to replace the tape that connects one end of the clip to the shell of the helmet.

Interesting cutaway. Can you describe how it works and upload better pictures? It is quite blurry and I can't figure out exactly how that works. I've also installed a similar cutaway on my G3, but it relies on the skyshot cutaway http://imgur.com/a/Y10Jj. I wonder if your system has any benefit that I might consider adding to mine.