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Where would a Katana 107 or a Stiletto 107 be according to the chart? Or any canopy in a 107 size? How about a Spectre 107? Would all 107's be 1200 jumps and above? (The sizes on the chart are square feet and the weights are in Kgs without wearing gear) This chart would never work for the truly dedicated jumper wishing to learn to swoop. Also, will this chart be applied to visiting jumpers?

Shouldn't have bought the 2 handled removeable/collapsible version. Over-engineered

If you used the Lookma RDS instead of the one PD "forces" you to have (when you buy a comp VC), then you wouldn't have any of them problems to begin with, thus no need for snaps. Plus you'd be able to remove it quicker under canopy due to it having only 1 handle in the middle.

Shit man, I thought I'd missed the party now that we are 4 pages in, but fortunately no-one has mentioned swooping to you yet. Just go ahead and YouTube it. Or anything to do with the PD factory team. You'll see it's well easy and I've a feeling that with your kitesurfing skills you'll be able to swoop straightaway!!! This is a great troll, either that or it'll turn out we are just grooming a dutch 12 year old!

That's what I thought. Not sure why PD said no. I sent them Karens canopy with the right paperwork asking for the orange vectran and they said no. Maybe I would have got a yes if I'd have just asked for a standard comp lineset.

PD won't do it.... I sent my wifes standard Velo 84 back for a reline recently (it's still currently with PD) and I asked for the new orange vectran. But PD told me no as the orange vectran was only a comp Velo lineset. I did originally think that there really wasn't that much difference between a standard Velo and a comp Velo lineset, (barring the brake line length obviously, but I have +3 anyway) but I guess there must be. When I pushed PD for an answer on that I didn't get a reply.

et viola... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d7SdwTXJgng Also.........In your face mpohl! I have a library of videos on my laptop for use as learning aids. Therefore as soon as this was posted I downloaded it for that reason. Yeah, we may be "dorkzoners.com" but I'd rather be that than a "no profile fuckwit sympathiser" I would like to add that currently I'm still living in the 80's and would like to apologise for my complete disregard for peoples feelings and my lack of political correctness. Carry on.....

Ah VB, as I was saying there was a time before political correctness and having to worry about people's feelings. So with that in mind I will add that it's nice we are flaming someone else this time instead of you. 200 jumps, C license and not being a complete fuckwit is required before jumping with camera. Sorted

ahh, it's turned into another debate on the use of cameras by newbies..... Can we get back to flaming the guy in the video for being such a dick. The camera is most certainly a factor in this whole event, but I think that the biggest problem was more to do with the guy himself. The argument this presents is really more a case of "is skydiving really for him?" and "how should he be punished?" We all fuck up, but how much do you have to get wrong before you question whether or not you really should be Skydiving at all. A telling off for that entire cluster fuck really isn't enough. Some long time away from the sport to really reflect and understand ones actions would be most warranted. Despite a stern telling off and being spoken to by his instructors, this guy is probably straight back up in the air with his camera and his awesome skills. [Sarcasm on] Oh, he's very sorry, he's promised that he'll ensure the camera won't distract him again. And he's now got an audible so he won't be low again. [Sarcasm off] In the old days before political correctness and worrying about peoples feelings, his actions would have warranted some severe reprisals.

Why are people spending hours vacuum-ing their homes when you can go to the source direct and just vacuum your pet.... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jM-JN4gM0BM I've recently upgraded the Dyson Animal to a Vax which is more powerful and the cat just loves it more... http://www.vax.co.uk/shop/product/cylinder-vacuum-cleaners/power-bagless-cylinder/Power-7-Pet-Cylinder-C89-P7N-P

I'm not sure what the deleted posts were about either. Were they a warning not to click on the video link originally posted? Cos if you click it thinking that it's going to be the actual footage of the cutaway, then you are going to be very, very sorely disappointed.....(and for over 5 mins as well).

Dunno about touching water but if they take away that margin for error I'll certainly be doing a lot more touching cloth

Maybe a visit to the GP is warranted.... Please bear in mind that your own health and physical condition would have a lot to do with this also... Do you smoke? Are you overweight? Did you skip a meal? Do you do any exercise? (that's real exercise like running or Squash, not walking or Zumba) Did you drink 3 Espresso's and 2 Redbulls prior to jumping?

Same question really? 500HMA or 300 Coated Vectran? (I need a new line set on my V84)

I'm a UK CP Coach and I've done the Katana to Velo transition. I am willing to give you some advice without flaming you but I need some more info first please. (Bear in mind this may not be the advice you are looking for). In your profile it says from your total jump numbers that you've done 300 swooping jumps... Have all these been H&P's? How many were coached, video-ed and debriefed? Who is coaching you? And how much coaching have you had so far? And in what format? ie. 1 to 1, CP courses etc. How many jumps do you have on the K120? What degree of rotation are you doing and from what altitude? Are you putting your turn onto a lane and/or onto gates? What is your weight with gear in lbs? (Guessing around 230lbs). What other canopies did you jump prior to the K120? Please give a brief canopy progression. Thanks

Hi, I use smoke from this company:- http://www.tlsfx.co.uk/p-40-150-second-smoke-grenades.aspx I find the burn time of 2.5 mins is good for free fall and canopy. Either a 1min freefall followed by a 1.5min (Velo) canopy ride and swoop, or a 2.5min H&P slower canopy ride from 5K+ with a swoop finish. However the output in freefall is not so good when headdown. OK for flat but becomes wispy HD or sitfly. Under canopy the output is excellent although yours does seem denser by comparison. However, what I really like is the electronic firing (I use a separate switch from a 9V battery). This way I can leave it disconnected up till 10K and only wire it up prior to exit and thus minimising any firing in the plane. However, despite several pilots telling me it will definitely fire, it has never fired yet inside. I also find green smoke appears to be easier to see from the ground, not sure why that is? The best part though is the cannister is slightly smaller in diameter than standard plastic guttering pipe from DIY stores. Therefore I cut a small 4" section of pipe and put it over the output end of the cannister to act as an exhaust and guide the smoke away from my body. This smoke does leave very minor colouring on jumpuits and trainers but it washes out very easily. I have also not noticed any colouring of lines. No ejection of hot rocks and no spontaneous or unintentional combustion. Cannister remains warm but still handle-able throughout. However there is one minor problem. When landing the cannister attached to your foot leaves a splodge of hot paint on the ground with every step you take. You have to be very careful not to then drop your canopy or pilot chute onto any spills as the retained heat from that paint splodge will burn. My wife's pilot chute dropped onto a paint spot after a demo and it burned a hole right through the middle of the mesh, although the ZP faired better it still meant a whole new PC. Just unfortunate really as after taking a few steps to land we always drop our canopies in front of us. (As the paint spots are always behind). Also, after use the cannister then does and will emit lots of ash. But at this point it's finished and it's just a case of clearing it away to a bin. So, if you can also solve some of these issues then you'd have the perfect smoke! Thanks.

Let me get this right.... You resurrected this thread to update everyone that the end cell closure you were suffering on your K135 had gone away. How had it gone away? You changed canopy and downsized to a K120. Hmmmm, did you explore any other issues at all? Did you check off any of the advice Aggiedave gave you? Or was the end cell closure simply just the excuse you needed to downsize? Well hell man, my V90 snivelled all weekend when opening, one snivel was nearly 1000ft. Suppose I'd better downsize to a V84. And you're right, it's not hard to fly a medium loaded canopy. But landing it in all scenarios with life saving skill is. (And we are not just talking about a medium loaded Spectre here are we?) Very soon you are going to need to have the skills to land your K120 when the shit hits the fan. That scenario is inevitable and is already booked into your future. It might be down to a bad spot, canopy traffic, turbulence, having a shit day or more likely just not being "in front" of your Katanas performance when you push it. But none the less it's still coming and sooner than you think. Lets hope that when it happens you do indeed have the skills necessary, despite missing out on some more reasonable and educated canopy progression. Because at 300 jumps on a K120 the reason you're not dead yet is very likely that under canopy you're nothing but all talk and on DZ.com you're nothing but all troll. p.s. My comments about downsizing to a K107 and being one step away from a crossbrace were pure sarcasm. I do realise DocPop you are cleverer than most, but I do hope that you are simply just being intentionally passive with your responses and that you don't honestly think my advice endorses you to downsize further or try a Velo.

DocPop, Your post is slipping down the listings so I'm gonna help you out with your trolling and reply. Thus putting it to the top of the list again and hopefully draw in the attentions of Aggiedave and Davelepka. Unfortunately their silence speaks volumes and that's because you simply do not need their advice. You obviously have mad skills and to be honest I think a K120 is holding you back. You'll be bored of that in 50 jumps and you really should have just manned up and gone straight to a K107. That way, you'll just be one step away from the fabled sub 100 cross brace (Velo 96). When you have dialed in your 270's, don't forget to post the video, a GoPro on the helmet and another on the foot would make awesome footage. And if you want a set of electronic swoop gates then let me know as I have a set ready to ship. I have a feeling you'll be ready for competition soon and definitely do not want to hold you back. Safe swoops and I'm glad you've resolved your end cell closure. p.s. This Skygod attitude was sponsored by DocPop trolling, thankyou for listening.

Nice Troll DocPop. I also like to follow your posts and I'm fully aware that you love to try and entice the experienced Swoopers like Aggiedave and Davelepka into a good trolling. However, if you really want to reel them in please post video of you swooping your new K120. Please show us a nice fat 270 through the gates! p.s. You need to up your game if you are gonna be anywhere near as entertaining as Petejones45.

Why would you not pull them down? To help with packing?? Depends how you pack.... When I pack, I re-attach the slider when the canopy is over my shoulder. Therefore the rings have to be at the other other end anyway. So rings down and out the way when under canopy. I just don't want then around my hands when I'm on the fronts or working the rears. Or have them moving around on my lines. And then as soon as I land, I quickly release them all and let them slide down to the canopy. So when you pick the lines up to pack, the rings are already at the canopy end and you can re-attach the slider with the canopy over your shoulder. (Then continue packing as normal). I've seen some people faffing around trying to re-attach the slider at the risers with the rig on the ground and they sure do make it look like hard work! ;-) p.s. How you getting on with them superb new gates?

Sebastian, Please don't hurt yourself on your new gates! Training on gates is a serious matter, they have a tendancy to suck you in. Prior to me training on gates I did a lot of coached jumps training on a lane. This develops the sight picture, to train the repeatability of your turn and to bring the turn down to the ground. (Bring the turn down, when maxed out and not the altitude of course). When you then go to gates the tendancy is to always set up too close to the gates and this causes you to either miss them by going through too high, or usually force a too aggressive/steeper/longer turn which has to be aborted quickly before you lose your knees. Gate fixation and/or a set up which is too close will kill! I also did my first gate jumps under 1 on 1 coaching from Brian Vacher. The only way to remedy this is to bring your set up and turn back. WAY, WAY back from the gates. Aim to only finish your swoop by taking the very last step through the gates. After you can do this then you can start building the power through the gates and bringing your set up closer. I use a helmet mounted GoPro pointed down to check my set up afterwards and you'll see the problem everytime. If this is not the case then you need to re-evaluate your skillset and ask whether you need to go back a few steps. Retrain your turn for repeatability and ensure your are maxed out. Get more coaching. If you are competing then I would assume by now you have received a lot of coaching and you should know what and where your nill win set up point is located from the gates. You should be able to pace out this set up point and place a marker on the ground (like a flourescent jacket) that can be seen from the air to determine whether or not you are at the right point. You should be able to move this point around in different wind conditions and know that a down wind run through the gates will amplify this set up point exponentially. You can also place several markers on the ground which can be used as distance markers. In RAPA their swoop pond is alongside the runway. From the air the runway markers can be used to gauge the exact distance back from the gates that you are. If you are too close you can then set up 1 marker back. All this is not an easy thing to do, taking the gates down for now and re-evaluating is a good decision. In the UK you are required to have 1000 jumps before competing and even at a 1000 jumps you would have to have done a LOT of dedicated coached hop and pops. This stuff is DIFFICULT! Brian Vacher at Empuria is a good coach and can help you with this a lot. I have close to 2000 jumps now and have been swooping for around 1250 jumps. I still can miss gates and have to remind myself every time not to set up too close. My turn is still only a 270 and I keep holding off from going to a 450 (or downsizing to an V84) because there is still so much to learn. Hope this helps and I'm sure some more experienced guys will chip in as well. Or flame/correct my advice ;-))

I did this with my GPS running watch this very weekend as an experiment and this is the result:- http://connect.garmin.com/activity/103106328#.TjWdhAWRrUI.email If you switch to aerial view you get a google earth map and can zoom in to see all aspects of the jump. Flightpath, Run in, Exit, Freefall, Track, Canopy ride and Swoop. Wouldn't have a clue how accurate it is, it was purely done for fun. It is a Garmin Forerunner 110 GPS watch by the way. I'll try the iPhone app for comparison. Cheers

www.Lookma.de I've used their removeable Sliders on every jump since around jump no.700, both as full RDS and just as a removeable slider on many different PD canopies, Sabre 2 150, Sabre 2 135, Katana 120, Katana 107, Velo 96 and Velo 90. No problems whatsoever doing either H&P's for CP Swoop training or freefall for some HD action! Now over 1200 jumps using Lookma sliders. 5-10 seconds to remove and 30-60 seconds to put back on depending in which manufacturer you go for. However, the benefits far outweigh the small amount of added time on the ground reconnecting. (Also, they take FAR less time to remove than collapsing and stowing a standard slider as well). Same scenaria for my wife as well; Sabre 2 135, Katana 120, Katana 107, Velo 90 and Velo 84. (About 1000 jumps on Lookma sliders).

I voted that the rigger is 100% responsible. They were paid to do a job and they did it wrong. They removed someones last hope of survival. That someone was a student. Taking into consideration that:- 1. The student failed to open a functioning parachute in time. 2. No one should rely on an AAD. 3. Had the loop been routed correctly then the cutter firing MAY have resulted in a functioning reserve in time. Also taking into consideration that the AAD is not fool proof and loops may not cut correctly, container flaps may lock and reserve pilot chutes may hesitate etc, etc. 4. The rigger may have routed the loop correctly through the cutter initially but some set of unforeseen circumstances meant that this then ended up misrouted. I still believe the rigger is 100% responsible. If the the student had lost consciousness (maybe due to a tailstrike) and was thus unable to pull, then we would all be looking at this very differently. The rigger is 100% responsible... The amount of blame apportioned and their subsequent punishment is mitigated by the above 4 points but their responsibility remains the same.

Yes it appears so. I have two small V3 Microns (both with Skyhook) and checking them is not as easy as the bulletin suggests.... Problems:- On my first rig:- V319, 4 years old with non magnetic riser tuck tabs. I can see that the harness stitching is unaffected on the right RSL/Skyhook side. On the left side I cannot get into the container deep enough to see the stitching. On my 2nd rig:- V306, 3&1/2 years old with very early magnetic riser covers which were modified with more magnets inserted from inside the yoke as per the UPT recommended mod. I cannot get deep enough into the harness/reserve on either side to check the stitching. When checking it also appears that the design may be different according to whichever version of riser covers you have and thus you may not be able to check the harness stitching without opening the reserve. I have e-mailed UPT to see if this is correct and for further advice.