Hooknswoop

Think through all advice, don't just follow it because of the source. Ask why. The locking stows are very important. If they release before line stretch, that is bag strip and it allows the begin inflating before line stretch, which is very bad. The rest of the stows aren't that important, again, look at reserve free bags or the 'no-stow' bags out there. They ensure an orderaly deployment, preventing slack line from wrapping around each other or main flaps. They keep the lines in the small coloumn of air above the jumper where they should be and not splayed out all over the place. I once took some advice that was from a very experienced jumper/factoy rep without thinking it through for myself. It almost cost me my life. Not long after that, the advice I was given was no longer being given out by the rep. Lifting the d-bag by the line as a test if they are tight nough doesn't allow for large and small canopies. Smaller canopies would pass the test with looser stows, while larger canopies would require much tighter stows to pass. Derek

I'm not sure if I follow th logic behind that advice since largr canopies weight more than smaller canopies, but why would a larger canopy need tighterr stows given the same size PC, than a smaller canopy? Either way, you can tighten rubber bands by wrapping them around the d-bag attachment point again to make them smaller. It is kind of like installing them twice on the d-bag. Also, if the lines needed to be stowed that tight, why do reseerve free-bags work? Why do tail pockets still work at terminal? As long as the lines are released in an orderly fashion and the bag remains shut until all the lines are out, then the opening will be fine. If it isn't thenyou have other problems, deployment speed, pilot chute, slider, etc. Derek

Right, but that is not what christel said. Using the B-2 analogy, what she said is all aircraft designed to kill, that is what they are for. That is a half-truth at best. That paints a false impression of aircraft/guns. Make them sound sinister and evil. Derek

Haven't they? Derek

RWS is saying that and they built the system. I am saying that it happened to me. There was nothing wrong with the Vector tandem I was jumping and the bag lock was caused by double stowing, which I was able to demonstrate/replicate on the ground after the jump. Derek

You have been given several, but like someone else from the other thread, refuse to believe it. From the other thread about what RWS says: "Double-stowing in the sport world with 54' drogues will most likely yield a bag-lock." If you won't believe me and others that have actually had a bag lock caused by double stowing, listen to RWS. There is no reason to double wrap rubber bands, and it can cause line twists and bag locks. Derek

Are you still double-wrapping the rubber bands? If a rubber band is slow to release, the bad could spin while the stow hesitates. Derek

Titanium hardware? Derek

New, but biased. Derek

Did you find the average peak force information for the Raven-M TSO yet? Derek

SVCO is probably the closest. Derek

Yes, it happened to me. The drogue wasn't just pulling on one rubber band, but 2. The stow that failed to release as well as the next one. On the ground, I had someone hold the risers and I pulled on the drogue. The bag tilted to one side, and try as I might, I couldn't get the stow to release or break. I said harder opening, not as in hard enough to break me or the canopy. Also, reserve terminal openings tend to be very hard, which is what you are going to get after bag lock mal, exactly what you are trying to avoid. Are double-wrapping rubber bands death? No, but I don't think it is a good idea and a poor solution to the problem and can crreate a worse problem than brisk openings. There are much better ways to get a canopy to open nicely. If double wrapping rubber bands was necessary to get a canopy to open nice, then those canopies I deployed with only locking stows would have opened hard. They didn't. If double wrapping rubber bands makes a canopy that opens hard open soft, then you have other problems, not loose stows. I can get any canopy to open soft without double wrapping the rubber bands. Derek

Double-wrapping rubber bands make them tighter and more difficult for the lines to come out. Make it too difficult for the lines to come out of the stows and they won't come out, leaving you with a bag-lock malfunction. My one and only bag-lock malfunction was with a tandem and was caused by double wrapping the rubber bands (not tandem bands either).I have deployed some different canopies using a reserve free-bag system without changing how the canopy opened. I strongly believe that there are much better ways to get a canopy to open slower than risking a bag-lock by double wrapping the rubber bands. I also thinnk that given the choice between a harder opening and a bag-lock, I would prefer the harder opening. If you need to make the stows tighter because the bag is being de-accelerated too quickly, maybe your PC is too large. Maybe you are falling too fast when you deploy. Maybe a different sized slider, a domed slider, or a pocket on the slider is what is needed to slow down the opening. As long as the lines are released in order and the locking stows remain in place until all other stows are released, the lines stows are fine and the problem/fix lay else where in the system. I think that double wrapping treats the symptons and not the disease and can cause a bag-lock. I think that most rogue hard openings are caused by one of two things, 1) not keeping the slider grommets against the slider stops while packing (easily fixed), and/or 2) falling too fast while deploying. I used to be able to get very soft openings by deploying in a very flat track. I would deploy immediately after a track, and could feel my self begin to accelerate as I went into a neutral body position from a flat track. Most people increase their fall rate during a track instead of decreasing it. Then they must slow down before deploying. A proper track will have a slower all-rate than a neutral body position. Putting on the brakes to stop the foward speed and deploying before re-accelerating always gave me the softest openings. Derek

I had a similar experience with them. Not answering e-mail/phone, saying it shipped, no tracking #, then got a tracking #, but only one of 2 helmets arrived, which was the wrong one. Second helmet never shipped. Finally got someone on the phone and they had zero answers as to what was going on. Sent back the helmet and canceled the order. Finally got a refund after calling again and reminding them several weeks later. I regret ever ordering from them in the first place. Derek

How close to the current RWS specs are the risers? Derek

Right, reserves have the wide risers, which won't allow the slider to come down to the toggles. Derek

Not that I know of, and I just am careful not to get any on the lines or risers. The latest verrsion of my gear tips: • Use Performance Design's Slinks for the main and reserve canopies instead of Rapide links. Slinks are stronger, lower bulk, easier to install and remove, and won't damage the slider grommets. Either use the slider stops that come with them (mini risers only) or tack the Slinks in place. • Clean cutaway cables every 30 days with Ace Pure Silicone Lubricant, sold at Ace Hardware stores, to keep cutaway pull forces low. Inspect cutaway cables every 30 days and replace nicked, cracked, or kinked cutaway cables with a new cutaway handle/ cables. • Keep a metal hook knife on your rig where it won’t shift around or fall off and can be accessed with one hand. • Flex 3-rings every 30 days to prevent them from taking on a "set" and hanging up during a cutaway. • Inspect Mallion Rapide links (stainless steel not zinc plated) and bumpers or PD Slinks every 30 days. Always use slider bumpers with Rapide links to prevent damage to the slider grommets, "Lock-Tite® thread sealant compound" to keep the link from loosening, and nail polish to torque-stripe Rapide links. • Use metal, capped, and tacked riser inserts for the excess cutaway cables, regardless of main size or type. They prevent difficult or impossible cutaway resulting from the channel "gripping" the cables or from line twists that include the excess cutaway cables. • Replace the main closing loop early and often. Adjust main closing loop so that the closing pin is snug. Use a stainless steel washer thick enough that it won't bend when closing the container. • Have Velcro replaced every 100-200 uses. Keep Velcro mated when not in use. • Use a kill line pilot chute, regardless of the size/type of main canopy you have. Check the length of your main pilot chute kill line every 30 days. The kill line should have a little slack in it when the pilot chute is "cocked" and the bridle is under tension. If it doesn't, have it fixed. • Replace a damaged or old kill line pilot chute with a new one. • "Cock" a kill line PC after laying the cocooned canopy on the ground and just before putting the canopy in the deployment bag. • Take the twists out of steering lines every jump or, at a minimum, after the last jump of the day. • When setting the brakes, set them so that the steering line is to the inside (between the risers) and the excess is to the outside. This will put the excess to the bottom of the riser channels on the container, helping to protect the excess steering line. Do not stow the excess steering line in the loops for the links. • Keep gear out of the sun as much as possible. Store in a cool, dry, secure place. • Use Velcro-less toggles/risers. Velcro damages the steering lines, risers and anything else it comes into contact with and has to be replaced every 100-200 uses. • Replace mini-risers every 500 jumps or less. Inspect them every 30 days for wear. • While packing, check your line trim every 30 days or less. When new, all the "A" lines are the same length (on 'most' canopies, check with the manufacturer). Spectra shrinks from the heat from friction with the slider grommets, pulling the canopy out of trim. Pay special attention to steering/control lines. Replace line sets that are significantly worn or out of trim. • Use the proper size rubber bands, 'Sky Bands', or 'Tube Stows' and do not double wrap them. • Have your rig washed every 500 jumps or so, more if jumping in a sandy environment or near salt-water. • When stowing your lines, don't drag the container to the bag, walk the bag to the container. Derek

Try this: Take a rig that hasn't had the 3-rings disconnected for at least 4 months. On the ground, pull the cutaway handle and then pull on a riser and see how much force it takes to release. Then flew/twist the 3-ring part of the riser and re-assemble it. Pull the cutaway handle again and pull on the riser again. I have found thee can be a considerable difference in the amount of force required to release the 3-ring before and after flexing it. It may not be necessary to flex the 3-rings every 30 days, but they will release faster/cleaner, especially with a low-drag mal like a bag lock than if they are not flexed. Also, since you really should clean your cutaway cables every 30 days any, flexing the 3 rings can't hurt and only adds a minute to the process. Derek

I don't think it is a problem for most rigs. The concrn is snagging the excess steering line on something and unstowing a toggle and causing severe line twists on opening, etc. With some rigs, it doesn't matter at all since the risers are so well protected, on others the excess line gets out easily which can cause problems. Derek

If nothing else, in a low-drag situation, 3-rings that haven't been flexed in a long time can be slow to release, or as mr2mk1g mentions, fail to release. It isn't a big safety item, but it can hel nd since you should be cleaning you cables anyway, it doesn't really add much to the work load. Derek

Sorry, I don't know of any gear maintenance video out there. Talk to your rigger about going over your gear with you. Derek

Right, I want to hear from those folks that said 'never'. Derek

No one wants to answer my question(s)? Derek

Vol I, Pg 452 Vol II, Pg295 Vol I, Pg498; "Oil and greae appear as greenish or brown-black in color and look like tar. Often such stains will bleed through several layers of pleated canopy. Oil and grease may be removed with alcohol, lighter fluid, or other approved cleaning solvents. Use plenty of absorbent rags on bth sides during the cleaning operation. Carbon tet will clean oil and grease out of cotton but it is dangerousto use and not recommended. Nacto will clean silk. Hydrocarbons are not generally injurious to nylon. Older mainenance instructions deeply concerned themselves with oil and grease since they delt with silk and cotton and because parachutes were often kept in dirty hangars." Derek

OK, now there's 3 Brad's. Theere is 1 Brad at LV and 2 at SVCO, Brad C and Brad H. Brad H is from Perris. All 3 are top-notch. I absolutely agree that sometimes people 'mesh' with some Instructors better than otheers. Doesn't mean that one is better than the other, just different. Derek