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Everything posted by hackish
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Finally got a tacker... now about those patterns?
hackish replied to hackish's topic in Gear and Rigging
Yep they're in there. I should have pulled out a proper macro lens. PD has been kind enough to send me some of the patterns they use so I will load them tomorrow but they really are very similar. -Michael -
Finally got a tacker... now about those patterns?
hackish replied to hackish's topic in Gear and Rigging
Mel, Do you have the set of patterns from PD or is it something you made yourself? I've been trying to get the files from PD. My machine takes a CF card so I wouldn't even have to burn them on a chip. Since I ain't paying $3000 for some software from Brother I spent a few minutes and wrote some excel formulas to generate a file. The result seems reasonable but I've never worked on a machine like this to know if it's the maximum potential or not. -Michael -
Finally got a tacker... now about those patterns?
hackish replied to hackish's topic in Gear and Rigging
Mark deals in Juki. If I had purchased a 1900 then I would have bought the chip from him. I spent a few hours and hacked the file format for my machine. I'm not going to spend $2500 for some simple software from Brother. I'd just rather get the correct patterns directly from the manufacturer. -Michael -
Finally got a tacker... now about those patterns?
hackish replied to hackish's topic in Gear and Rigging
Purchased a Brother KE-430D electronic tacker. It does not have any center start tacker patterns from the factory. I've been trying to contact PD to see if they can make theirs available but all I have been able to get is a word document that describes them. It would be nice to get legit patterns so I can ensure they're correct rather than trying to build them myself and running the risk that I didn't get the ratio or size quite correct. My machine takes a CF file but I do know how to load them off eprom data. Is this something that anyone has available? -Michael -
Replacing Student Gear... What Container to go with???
hackish replied to amitchel's topic in Gear and Rigging
We have a few vector SEs and our DZ is also sigma tandems so there are a few advantages with respect to ordering parts. We also have some Javelin rigs equipped with skyhooks. I can put parts orders in together as well as stock reserve pilot chutes and a collection of sigma and student freebags then assemble them if needed. First, I believe MARD systems are a good thing for student operations. The Skyhook system is well tested and if you ever end up in a legal situation there is some strength in saying it's the best tested, oldest and most used system on the market. Finally, for me personally, I like the Javelin but not all riggers are good at or comfortable packing them. It is also nice that they all use the same freebag stow so despite it being a manufacturer only part I only have to stock one size. So make sure whatever rigs you choose are something the riggers will be able to live with. Hope that helps -Michael -
The day I stop supporting a company like L&B is the day I see consistent bad support. I've had great support from them. They even offered a very low cost fix on an audible that was broken from a novices foot and was in no way their fault. -Michael
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I could not agree more. This spring I watched someone scrub at least 500 jumps out of his brand new H/C because he had landed in the muddy field and wanted to clean it himself without paying a rigger to disassemble and wash it. Nothing to be done against a stubborn type A personality. It's like arguing with a drunk. -Michael
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There was a guy who was selling them a few years back. I lost mine when my car/rig/everything got stolen (parked in the wind tunnel parking lot) :( Boo. I'll have to ask around to see who it was but the pack was pretty nice for $80. -Michael
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dpreguy is correct in that you cannot anodize steel or stainless. Technically if it has iron in it then it's a ferrous class of metal. The black coating is black oxide. I think for us it would be stainless hardware that's been coated. You can't just do it on zinc coated hardware so stripping then coating is a bad deal. The black oxide application itself uses a salt not an acid so hydrogen embrittlement is not an issue. I did some of my own anodizing and oxide coating non-parachuting parts I made/machined but I gave up a few years ago as it was a messy and difficult process. Nobody wants their parts to come out blotchy! -Michael
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Quick update on the project. I've found most of the parts I need except for the clutch. Turns out mid-south sewing went out of business and Earl passed away. I've talked to Pennsew, miami and roebson. Nobody has a used Juki clutch to sell. Maybe I can find a chinese knockoff supplier who would sell a clutch assembly for a few hundred dollars. Does anyone know of a company that made clones of the mechanical tackers? -Michael
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I purchased a used mechanical tacker for a couple hundred dollars. A handful of parts were removed. I've mostly sourced replacements for most of the missing parts but the clutch assembly is causing me issues. It's not just a part of it missing, the entire thing is GONE! See the photo. Buying all the components from Juki would exceed the value of the machine. Does anyone have a parts machine laying around with this part? Or any ideas or experience with being able to buy something like this used? -Michael
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I have the 112W140 that I just finished rebuilding. With a better description of what is causing the issues I might be able to give you some advice. Although a lot of the parts can work on both I don't find the 212 to be _that_ similar. -Michael
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I picked up a mechanical tacker but it's missing parts :( If i can find a Juki 1854 clutch anywhere I'll probably just fix it up and get rid of it. If you have the budget then an electronic tacker can be had for 2500-3000 whereas a mechanical one is in the $1200-$1500 range. -Michael
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Whether it's doctors, mechanics or riggers there will always been good and bad practitioners. Keep in mind too that all riggers make mistakes. The careful ones catch their own mistakes before the equipment goes into service. -Michael
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Worse than that I had to call a rigger (second time) this year for hooking a reserve up like this. First time i called him was for finger tight rapide links. If there ever is a 3rd time it will be a report to make sure his ticket is revoked. -Michael
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It's not a bad idea to start with a good working over with your shopvac. I used a steam cleaner with an upholstery attachment with some good results too. Instead of the harsh carpet chemicals I just put laundry detergent in it. -Michael
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Sorry Rob I gave my last one away when someone asked if I felt comfortable packing their Racer. I'll be at Lee Valley tomorrow and I can ask for you. -Michael
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Required, no. Many of the materials and techniques used in jumpsuits are the same. I expect a good rigger should be able to tackle the job. It's not a coincidence that many riggers learn to sew making jumpsuits, packing mats and gear bags. -Michael
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What do you lubricate your yellow cables with?
hackish replied to lyosha's topic in Gear and Rigging
If you read the MSDS sheet you will discover the WD40 and jiffy lube brands are primarily propellants and solvents. I don't remember the percentage that is actually silicone but it's quite low. -Michael -
As the ink on my ticket dried then started to fade with age I've become acutely aware that only some riggers can sew and far fewer can sew well. I think you just need to find one of those. -Michael
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I don't understand the rationale behind this. Saving $25 a jump by having your own gear pays for your used gear around that many jumps and you still have a rig after to sell and upgrade. Is this recommended in case you want to downsize before or what? I wonder how I could have worded what I wrote differently so readers would have understood what I was saying. Dropzones frequently sell their gear after 500-1000 jumps and it is therefore possible to buy a high mileage student rig for a decent price. Student gear is often quite adjustable so could be made to fit him. -Michael
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You're not a whuffo aymore. Don't say chute. Say canopy. Haha, I was thinking those exact words. -Michael
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Usually student gear has a lot of adjustability built into it. So maybe you could purchase some used student gear. Alternatively a master rigger can resize a harness for you too. We have a guy who is 6'10" and for sure all his gear is custom made. At 6'4" it's not impossible. I always recommend spending your first 100-150 jumps on high mileage gear before purchasing something new. Unless you're flush with cash. -Michael
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My opinion is that if you buy a tight fitting container you'll get frustrated with learning to pack. Rigs are not like cars, they don't depreciate by 30% every year. Buy a well used rig to get over the big learning curve as you transition from novice to intermediate jumper. When you resell the rig expect to lose a couple of dollars per jump in depreciation. At that point you'll be ready to buy custom new and all that so you can enjoy the next 500+ jumps without suffering the compromises you had to make earlier. Again, once you've passed the novice level and are standing up all your landings I don't think dirt and reserves are a concern. If it bothers you call PD and ask. They see and inspect more reserves than any of us. -Michael
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Double-stowing lines in rubber bands - another data point
hackish replied to peek's topic in Gear and Rigging
I think an important point is that their recommendation is focused on double stow if needed to achieve the 8-12lbs of stow holding force. With big dacron lines it may not be necessary. -Michael