riggerrob

If I were in samdiggy's boots, (long commute) I would take up para-gliding. A para-gliding school will teach him volumes about canopy control and reading the weather ..... way more than any skydiving school.

A fellow rigger used a saw and long 40 foot (13 metre) packing table. He started by finger-trapping one end of the line, the anchored it to the hook at one end of the table. He tied his power-saw to the other end of the line and hung it off the end of the table. Any 20-ish pound (10 kg) weight will do. Then he marked the line and cut it. Gluing a tape measure to the table helps.

Welcome sbuchan, Skydiving is a great way to self-medicate for PTSD and a variety of other psychological disorders.

In the long-run, we hope that new Vortexes get slightly longer pin flaps ..... too long to snag pins under binding tape.

Rather than start a new thread, I am adding this announcement to an existing Talon 1 thread. As of New Year's Day 2017, Rigging Innovations will no longer support Talon 1 and Telesis 1 containers. That means no spare parts and no factory repairs. Production ended about 20 years ago (mid-1990s). They can be identified by the size mentioned on the data panel, usually a letter for reserve size and a number for main container size. For example, the largest Telesis 1 was "F18" sized for 300 square foot canopies. OTOH the smallest Talon 1 reserve container was "B" sized for Micro Raven 150 reserves. Talon 1 and Telesis 1 (student version) have 6 flaps in the reserve container and large pilot-chute caps: Talon, Skyhook, Magnum, Vector 2, etc.

Rather than start a new thread, I will add another Vortex Service Bulletin to this thread. Parachute Systems Bulletin 2016-02 says that Sigma pins (part of Skyhook system) might snag under the edge of binding tape on the last reserve flap ..... or normal pin checks might push the pin away from the closing loop. Fortunately, the solution is fairly easy: ask your local rigger to zig-zag along the edge of the offending binding tape. Sounds like another case of down-sizing container flaps - too small and too quickly - without considering that some reserve components (e.g. ripcord pins) don't get smaller at the same rate. The long-term solution is a larger flap - or conceal edges (like pre 2,000 Javelins).

I disagree with Gowlerk because tandems are all about routines. Anytime you disrupt a routine, you risk never completing that portion of the skydive. To that end, I always dress students using the same routine and doing it completely. If I am only dressing the student and handing him/her off to another instructor, I still dress students according to the same routine and snug their harnesses before handing them to their instructor. Finally, horizontal leg straps are a recipe for bruised thighs! Because they can easily slip below the student's crotch. At opening time, those loose legs straps rapidly slide up thighs, chaffing and bruising thighs along the way. Far wiser to pre-tension leg straps (between crotch and iliac crest) before boarding the airplane. Even better, snug all the straps before leaving the dressing room.

Like Mr. FCA, I have replaced a dozen or so plastic staffeners in PEPs. The only difference is that I am replacing white nylatron stiffeners in the pack trays and side flaps of Slimline (clone of National) PEPs made in Canada. I have also replaced dozens of cracked stiffeners in sport containers. The majority were in over-stuffed main containers, but I have also repaired a few over-stuffed reserve containers. My pet peeve is replacing cracked main riser cover tuck-tabs. Tolerances are very tight making it doubly difficult to re-use old binding tape. The worst part is that most cracked stiffeners could be avoided by RTFM. Hint: the Javelin post-2,000 manual works great on Javelins built after the turn of the century. OTOH if you use the new manual to pack old Javelins (made in the previous century), the top of the reserve container ends up too bulky, causing riser covers to pop open, or - worse - fracked. As for whether to defer fracked stiffeners ..... NOT! Because the longer you wait, the more expensive the repair. For example, R.I. repairs cracked stiffeners by replacing the entire flap .... a process that requires patterns that are never seen outside the factory. Finally, if you are replacing cracked stiffeners, only install grey, durable, Nylatron that is lubricated with molybdenum disulphide.

How many of you have attended previous PIA Symposia? Which seminars did you enjoy the most? What new seminar topics would you like to hear (2017 February 14-17)? At previous symposia I have given seminars on: packing squares into pilot emergency parachutes, re-lining canopies and handy-cam.

Crossfires are too "zippy" for a first canopy. You will live longer under a Safire.

Which model of Swift reserve? Is yours an early 5-cell Swift, with flat-braided Dacron suspension lines (serial number beginning with R3-......) made during the early 1980s? The rib Service Bulletin only applies to 5-cell Swifts. Or is it a 7-cell Swift Plus, with Spectra suspension lines made during the late 1989s? There is a separate Service Bulletin about Swift Plus suspension lines. Apparently a few were sewn incorrectly. I have packed a hundred Swift Plus reserves, but never found any loose bartacks.

The current global flow of manufactured goods is based on low oil prices and fast communications via the Internet. As soon as the USA starts paying $4.00 per gallon of gasoline (like Canadians are already paying) global flow of manufactured goods will slow. Sadly, that probably won't happen within my lifetime. Meanwhile skilled workers (welders, tool and die makers, etc.) are retiring. It will be a major struggle to train new generations of skilled workers with only a handful of mentors. High-tech goods have a life-cycle. They might be invented in Silicon Valley and the first generation might be built in North America, but as soon as they start sub-contracting manufacturing to Third World countries, price drops dramatically (because of low wages) and the Third Workd nation learns how to build that level of technology. Eventually all the proud TE are manufactured in the Third World, while brighter First World engineers are forced to invent a product that is shinier .... and the cycle repeats.

Last time I mailed a rifle, I (removed the magazine) inserted a U-shaped bicycle lock through the open breech. A bike lock could also prevent theft if it is wrapped around metal plumbing. Similarly, I prefer gun locks that secure a gun inside a cabinet, bed frame, drawer, etc. Just make sure that the drawer is difficult to remove. Bluetooth gun locks are suspect because some hacker will develop an app to unlock your gun. Furthermore, during a blackout, your cell-phone will run out of electrons and your gun will be permanently locked. Old school keyed locks are more reliable when SHTF. Otherwise, I believe that Canadian gun storage laws are written primarily to protect SWAT teams (gun in one locked cabinet and ammo in a separate locked cabinet). By the time you can unlock both cabinets, load, remove trigger locks, etc. bad guys will have finished gang-raping you, have your valuables in their (stolen) van and be long gone.

........................................................................................... It scares me too! Back during the 1980s several solo harness manufacturers (EOS, Centaurus, etc.) experimented with low chest straps (IOW belie the reserve ripcord handle). The primary motivation was comfort for women with large "girls." I remember one member of the Canadian (classic) style and accuracy team who had a chest strap that ran below her "chest." She was so uncomfortable that she asked a rigger to see on an extra chest strap above her reserve ripcord. The two straps framed her "girls" magnificently! After many years, manufacturers converged on the current harness configuration. Remember that the primary function of any chest strap is to keep the shoulder yoke over your shoulders until after opening shock. A similar (related) function is preventing you from falling forward out of your harness. When adjusting tandem student harnesses, keep the hooks near the top of the shoulders and the chest strap high enough to prevent a shoulder from slipping out of the harness.

Wow! Those TIs need refresher training on the function and adjustment of student harnesses. First off: the leg straps, belly and horizontal back straps are supposed to work together to keep the pelvis in the harness. Part of that process is snugging the back and belly bands around the top of the pelvis (iliac crests ...... at the same level a belt holds up your pants. IOW the hip junction should cover the iliac crests, while a tandem harness should be adjusted to position the junction forward of the ilia a crest, on the front of the pelvis.

If you buy too large a canopy, all your spare cash will be spent on jump tickets. If you buy too small a canopy, you will spend too much money on ambulance rides. No jumper - opening over a forest - wished he had a smaller canopy.

........................................................................................ Not that I know of. What size of snap shackles? What size of webbing? How do you adjust length? Do you snap them to hip rings? Do you connect the bottom end to cargo rings? Are snap shackles approved/certified/blessed by Australian Civil Aviation Authorites? NZ? UK? Can you provide a link to a manufacturer of snap shackle belts?

Alleging unsafe gear opens the barn door for personal injury lawyers. PI lawyers will cheerfully astonish the jury about something "unsafe" deep in the reserve container, while ignoring evidence that the student flew his main canopy into wires, hangars, lakes, etc. Shock! Did I just call lawyers ignorant?

Au contaire Mr. Dthames, To avoid over-loading students, new information is best dispensed in small doses. First jump courses usually only cover the bare minimums by focussing on "must knows." Other information, (should knows) techniques can he gradually added a little at a time. "Could knows" are wrapped up as the junior jumper prepares to write the exit licence exam.

Thanks for the link. Thanks for helping me answer my own question. It looks like a Cobra, side block, adjuster or adapter, 25 mm wide might work. Para-Gear carries 2 Cobra buckles (1" wide) that might work. H5060 - 1" Slide Block Adapter or rated for 1600 pounds = 750 kg. H5066 - 1" Cobra Frame Adapter is rated for 2000 pounds = 900 kg. Next question: how do you convert kilo newtons to pounds? How to Cobra's strength ratings (Safe Working Limit?) relate to the Minimum Breaking Strength of MIL SPEC or PIA SPEC hardware?

Does anyone (Bordon, Wichard, etc.) make 1 inch wide, stainless steel buckles rated for 2,500 pounds? I would prefer traceable MIL SPEC or PIA SPEC hardware originally designed (and certified) for harnesses, seatbelts or cargo straps. My dilemma involves using doubled Type 13 webbing in a harness, but wanting 1 inch wide buckles as strong (2,500 pounds) as all the other buckles in the harness.

Yes. Discussing baggage doors wanders off-topic (from seatbelt pictures) but baggage doors need to be discussed sooner or later. Baggage doors are a side-subject from belts. For example, I recently gave a "bail-out seminar"'to the Aerobatic Club of British Columbia. My initial lesson plan was mostly about parachutes, but when we got to practicing bail-out drills, we ended up devoting considerable time and practicing to aerobatic seatbelts. Fortunately, ACBC provided three shiny airplanes (Decathlon, Christen Eagle and Extra) and several experienced pilots who explained seatbelts to junior pilots, etc. We eventually devoted an extra (pun intended) hour to seatbelts, but aerobatic belts were an important side-subject.

Gear checks are so important that they should be done 3 times every jump: in hangar, pre-boarding and pre-exit. When you first arrive at the DZ, the first thing you should is inspect your gear. Start at the left shoulder working your way down 3-rings, chest strap, reserve ripcord handle and leg strap. Repeat the inspection working your way down the right side of your harness. Then work your way diagonally up the back confirming that BOC, main bridle, main pin, reserve pin and AAD are all correct. Finish your gear check by returning to your starting point by sliding your reserve ripcord cable back and forth. Complete your hangar check by collecting 3 accessories: helmet, goggles and altimeter. Use your helmet - like a bucket - to stow your smaller accessories - beside your rig. Now go bribe manifest with chocolate. Hah! Hah!

Did you explain your problem to an eye-ear-nose-and-throat doctor? Did you invite the good doctor to gaze thoughtfully into your ears?

Ghost loops are temporary closing loops. Some look like the Cypres loops installed in Javelins, etc. Any lump of scrap iron will do. The key component is made of Cypres cord to allow them to easily slip through Cypres cutters. Alternately, you could ask Jump Shack/Parachute Labs for free Ghost Loops which are merely a looped, double-ended loop sewn to a piece of Type 4 tape. To reduce parts-count, I finger-trapped pull-up cords to both ends of my Ghost Loops. I have even finger-trapped a few adjustable Ghost Loops that help prevent canopy bulk from drifting under the pilot-chute. Ghost Loops are used similar to steel T-bodkins but have the advantage of easily slipping through Cypres cutters. You start by installing Ghost Loops through the grommets near the ripcord pins (backpad). Close the reserve container much the same way as a 1-pin or 2-pin sport reserve, using temporary pins to secure each successive flap. Temp pins help discourage canopy bulk from bunching up under the pilot-chute. Late in the process, loop (Cypres) pull-up cords through pilot-chute loops, pull everything towards the back pad, insert ripcord pins, etc.