dragon2
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Everything posted by dragon2
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That image is waaay overexposed (wel duh), more than 1 stop anyway. The camera picks 1/10 sec, and +1stop, so first I'd reset the camera totally if you can't get rid of the +1 stop (or read the manual - try turning the wheel or something, works on my nikons anyway), then set the camera to Tv at 1/400 to 1/500 as 1/10 sec is not usuable for skydiving. When I jumped Canon, spot metering worked best for me, but YMMV. The camera should expose right this way, if it still overexposes, clean the lens and body contacts (as it looks in this pic as if it was shot at f2.8 not f7.1 so maybe the camera gets its info wrong) and change out the remote if it still doesn't work. Last bet is trying another lens or this lens with another camera. ciel bleu, Saskia
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Click ciel bleu, Saskia
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Try turning on the ilink downconvert and plug in the firewire cable again. If you try to import HD video into SD software/template the pc will not recognize the camera. ciel bleu, Saskia
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True, however OP specified Premiere Pro CS4 which'll run faster on quadcore/i7 as it makes use of all 4 cores. ciel bleu, Saskia
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I have a quadcore 4gb DDR2 32bit and a core i7 6gb DDR3 64bit, the core i7 wins hands down. That's what you want. get a budget core i7 with 3 or 6 gb DDR3 RAM. DDR2 is old and DDR3 is cheaper too. Get 2 decent harddrives, one for the OS one for editing (can be an external one if you want, e-sata is good for that), I got medium performance graphics (say USD 100 cards) in both pcs, seems to be enough. But why do you want to edit in full hd? With the core i7 a 6-7 min tandemvid shot in HQ HD takes me 3 times as long to render & burn as a my own 9-10 min tandemvids shot in HQ SD. ciel bleu, Saskia
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That's a whole 'nother can of worms A suunto is not an alti, it's not marketed as one, it can be very easily bumped out of alti mode, it needs resetting quite often, it's not easily readable in freefall, all in all it's a nice toy for experienced jumpers but no way is it suitable for your jump numbers. And even most experienced jumpers seem to shy away from alti watches now that neptunes and the like are common. I know i sold mine pronto for one of the first neptunes! ciel bleu, Saskia
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We just had a whole thread regarding digital alti's for newbies. Some are for, some are against. Looks like our national rules may change to include a rule about not getting a digital alti right off the bat, only after something like 100 jumps or B license. Fact of the matter is, digital altis fail way more often than analogs and that's even without the bumping a beginner jumper will be sure to put it through. A altimaster3 will last you 25 years, digital altis we've had fail quite often even in their first year. Your money, your safety, your choice, or maybe your instructor's, did you check that yet? ciel bleu, Saskia
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The wave is a beeper only, no visual readout. I'd buy a neptune if I were you, use it as a beeper (set 500ft LOWER than you're planned brake-off altitude) and get an analog alti for your wrist as these are more reliable and tougher - can you handle the digital not working in freefall and can you land on your feet all the time yet, not roll over your expensive new toy, not bump it on exit? They can't handle much bumping, while an analog can. Later on you in your jumping career you may decide to get another beeper and start using the neptune on your wrist, or maybe not. But you'll have the option then, when you're ready for it. ciel bleu, Saskia
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Looks like you're moving too much. Why do you shoot at 1/250? Try 1/400 or 1/500, and keep your head more still. Also you really need to clean your sensor, I'd touch up those photos before I gave them to a customer, myself. Another tip, not sure if you already do this as you only posted a few pics, but the first 2 pics are nice shots of the TM, but you can't see the passenger, try getting in at least a bit of belly from the passenger so his/her face actually makes the shot, no-one needs shots of the TM and his/her rig, IMO. ciel bleu, Saskia
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And this thread once again confirms my opinion that a lot of not most Americans have NO CLUE about the rest of the world I still think it is really funny when an American ask me to find out for them how much THEY're going to have to pay in USD, offer me 1:1 USD/EUR and think that's a good offer, freak out when I ask for their bank account number, be totally amazed if someone has no credit card, and cannot fathom why we over the Pond generally prefer a bought item be shipped labeled with a much lesser value. Well now the shoe is on the other foot. Which you apparently insist on inserting further into your mouth with every post you make, funny thread this. ciel bleu, Saskia
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Not adds, subtracts! A safire 1 is about 1 size smaller than a safire 2 with the same label. ciel bleu, Saskia
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There is a LOT of difference between lightnings: do not take a ZP lightning to terminal but a F111 one with a slider and bag can be jumped ok. ciel bleu, Saskia
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A good one for WHAT? What video+lens are you jumping and do you want to match up? Do you want to use autofocus for jumping? I'd strongly prefer the Canon 15mm 2.8 lens to this Sigma, or if you must save a few bucks go for the sigma 15mm 2.8, for most jumping. Matches up nice with most videocameras + raynox 3032. I own this Sigma (albeit with a nikon mount) but i always jump my nikon 16mm 2.8. All these alternatives are a bit fisheye-ey though, if you don't like that the sigma 10-20 is ok, although canon makes some nice zooms that are better quality. ciel bleu, Saskia
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Are certain parachutes less safe to unopen than others?
dragon2 replied to TheSkiesAbove's topic in Gear and Rigging
http://www.parachute.nl/fileadmin/knvvlpa_upload/pdf/BVR_bijlage_B_versie_2009-04.pdf That's a list of canopies that are deemed suitable for various experience levels, with a minimum size and max WL too. These are our rules not yours and i personally don't agree with them for the full 100%, but it gives you an idea where to place certain canopies in the performance line-up. Notice it doesn't mention canopies like Katana, Velocity, Vengeance, Xaos and the like as those are for 700+ jumps. ciel bleu, Saskia -
Read this or a few of the other 500 posts about the CX100/105... ciel bleu, Saskia
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The dropped/freeze frame is purely a HD thing, if you shoot in SD you will not have this problem (but you get the blocks/stripes if the heads are dirty, for tandemvids I strongly prefer the freezeframe lol). also, some tapes are just no good right from the start or start out good (1 tandemvid) then freezeframa, so not only clean the heads but don't use that particular tape anymore too, plus of course sticking to one brand of tape and not re-using tapes prevent most issues, this together solves all my HC5 problems always, I still jump mine for competitions. I know one guy who bought a HC5, bought a (one) Sony HD tape, and because said tape was so expensive he kept reusing it over and over again, funny part was he wasn't even shooting in HD, so he got blocks within 2 weeks of buying the camera ciel bleu, Saskia
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Ditto. ciel bleu, Saskia
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WHAT box? There's been a few threads about boxes, including Tonfly's, for HC and CX series. ciel bleu, Saskia
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What's your problem? Of course RAW is better than jpg if you want to do stuff to your pics later on, that's basic, something I presume you know if you have a 5D. And from what I've seen in all the years working for our magazine and for events and stuff, Canon pictures do look different from Nikon pictures do look different from Sony pictures do look different from Sigma pictures, out of the box that is. And yes, when I get pictures for our magazine from the USA the saturation has been upped pretty much always. So, you can jump high or low about it but it does seem to be a trend. ciel bleu, Saskia
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I think we covered this quite a few times already but here goes. I shoot every video original, finished video is 8-10 minutes long, copying to pc and into premiere pro takes a few minutes, editing time for me is close to zero (work with templates, mine include anmated intro DZ logo and extro animated logo of my own), rendering and burning takes 4-5 minutes. This is with fast memory cards, fast card reader, icore7 pc with 6gb ram and decent graphics card, using adobe premiere pro cs4. From what i've heard, importing to a mac takes (a lot) longer. ciel bleu, Saskia
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Might be a difference between Nikon and Canon then, as I get perfectly good ready-for-customers pictures out of all my cameras (D70s, D80, D200, D300, D2X) without any saturation, sharpening etc turned on. Also, I think on the whole Americans like their pictures more saturated than we do anyway. ciel bleu, Saskia
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"Neutral Low sharpening, contrast and saturation: the ideal starting point for image-editing in the computer." I'd use that one ciel bleu, Saskia
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Not sure what you mean by "picture styles" but it is generally a bad idea to set settings like sharpness, contrast, saturation etc in the camera to anything but neutral, especialy if you only shoot jpg not jpg + raw. You'll ruin the pictures for further processing in photoshop and the like and magazines will frown at this too. Photoshop is much better than the camera anyway should you later wish to adjust something. So my advice is, don't. ciel bleu, Saskia
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Why didn't you gt an RSL? You can still get one you know. ciel bleu, Saskia
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Good openings, not too hard not too soft. On heading openings, behaves itself in linetwists. Great intermediate/wingsuit/cameraflyer canopy. Easy to pack due to Optimum fabric used, packs up small. Flies flat, easy to get back from a long spot. Do not overload (= more than WL 1.3) or you'll have trouble flaring (flare feels real mushy at WL 1.4), at a lower WL the flare is fine. All in all, this is a canopy I like. ciel bleu, Saskia