dragon2

Another vote for the alti2 galaxy. ciel bleu, Saskia

Which is bad. Make sure you can turn it OFF. If it is optical stabilization, just don't jump it. Why wouldn't you jump any one of the proven Canon or Nikon cameras in favor of this one? ciel bleu, Saskia

Turn off the EIS and make sure the helmet fit is proper and the mount itself doesn't shake. Put on a wide angle lens, keep your head still(ish) in freefall and voila, no more shake ciel bleu, Saskia

I like Atoms in general, but PdF's customer service is the worst in the business and delivery times are off the charts, so cannot advise anyone to get anything new from PdF at the moment ciel bleu, Saskia

SCOLDING? Are you kidding?!? He gave real good advice, in a regular tone of voice, more detailed than most would give you here, and it's advice to help keep you in one piece. If that doesn't sit well with you I'd look into both growing a thicker skin and finding another hobby Seriously. This ain't child's play. and yes, a ZP 210-230 sound best for you. ciel bleu, Saskia

Typed in oh say 'rawa camera helmet' in google yet? Also take a look at our camera forum... ciel bleu, Saskia

Not the ones I've had Make that "A Diablo 135 has about the same pack volume as a Stiletto 150" and you're much closer. ciel bleu, Saskia

Lol that's my old rig (see avatar), go Tina ciel bleu, Saskia

Some DZs do/did that for swooping, the deal usually is you buy the lead then they buy it back for less if/when you return it. ciel bleu, Saskia

I´ve had biteswitches (broke/bit through 3 in less than 50 jumps), tongueswitches (worked ok), blowswitch (last the longest but can´t use switch without putting on helmet and I often have my mouth open in freefall so no pics then) now I only jump pro mouth switches, love them, I can keep my mouth open to smile at the passengers, they work great by hand too and they last me like forever, ie the remote plugs tend to break before the mouth switches do, at least for me so far. I never use my switches to make multiple shots, I just push the button whenever I want one shot, still get 3 or more exits shots this way so see no reason to shoot 3 to 5fps as my cameras can do... But maybe a tongueswitch would suit you best then. ciel bleu, Saskia

That's just plain dumb. First of course is the 1.4 WL at less than 400 jumps, and 2nd is that the Pulse isn´t designed to be loaded very high so you´re basically overloading the Pulse with 1.4 and it will not flare as well at a Pulse up to 1.2 or so which is the highest it is made for Dumb dumb dumb. ciel bleu, Saskia

If you get paid to do video (i.e. tandems, team training etc) or care anything about your video, only use your tapes once. If you get degradation (block, stripes and/or freezeframes) on video you NEED to have, you're screwed. And all for 3 bucks for a 1 hour tape. Why reuse a tape even once anyway for that kind of money? ciel bleu, Saskia

No it's not. Read the camera forum and the FAQ. If you want video, pay a video flyer to film you. If you want to jump video yourself get at LEAST 200 jumps under your belt, preferably double that, before you jump with any kind of camera. But most newbies (and a lot of not-so-newbies) prefer nice footage of themselves rather than the solo jumping (often bad) footage of a lot of sky which is what you'd get jumping a camera solo. So get an up jumper with camera to jump with you, ask for the raw footage if you like to edit yourself. And go jump your ass off if you want to eventually fly video yourself ciel bleu, Saskia

Wat denk je zelf It's not the speed that is the problem though, but mostly backflying/sitflying. AFAIK there's no camera out there with both a viewfinder and EIS, at least not from Sony. Do you really need a viewfinder? ciel bleu, Saskia

What display do you mean? The top display should keep on working/showing info. The back display does not I think, but I always mounted mine with the back to my helmet front so not 100% sure about that. May have something to do with how your remote is wired - if you have it wired so the camera is always focusing and metering when the remote is connected but you're not yet pressing the button, then the back display will be turned off for sure because the camera is busy. ciel bleu, Saskia

You think skydiving is safe? You think skydivers do not police themselves, maybe have rules and guidelines in place? You think what may be safe for one (say a heads-up jumper with a few hundred jumps) may be equally safe for a student? If you want "safe" pick another hobby. If you want to take responsibility, look out for yourself and make your own decisions, you're in the right place. ciel bleu, Saskia

Like I said, 2 options for a D40: either mod the wireless remote yourself like we used to do for the D70 or get someone to do the hardware mod for you like Harbotronics used to do for the D70. I haven't heard of any company that will do this mod anymore although there was a post on here last week or so from an Irish jumper (?) who apparently found someone to do it, first I've heard of anyone getting this mod done on a newer camera. Doesn't really seem to be an option as there's no demand for it you'll have to go hunt for a "tinkerer" yourself. IMO you're much better off buying a 2nd hand D70S/D80 for about the same money you'd pay for the mod + shipping even if you can find anyone. ciel bleu, Saskia

Lanc is for Sony videocameras, you want a wired remote plug for a still, something the Nikon D40 does not have. If you want to jump Nikon, get a D70S, D80, D200, D300, D90. Or prepare to get really annoyed with the wireless remote option if you're set on jumping a D70, D50, D40(X), D60, D5000. Do a search here for how to modify a Nikon IR remote to (sorta) work with a wired switch. You'll have to do the mod yourself and this method is not recommended for any time you really need pictures like when you're getting paid to shoot them So make your life easier and either get one of the models that DO have a wired remote, get a Canon EOS or get your D40 modded if you can actually find someone to do that (Nikon will not) and if you're willing to lose your warranty and such. ciel bleu, Saskia

I jump a tonfly box, no screw needed I just drop it in and close the box (although I did put 2 velcro straps around the box for more security than the one strap it comes with). ciel bleu, Saskia

Read the FAQ at the top of this forum? You want a Sony videocamera, period, and there is no video camera yet that can replace a DSLR stills camera or even come close. ciel bleu, Saskia

I use the same method. One hand grips the chin cup so I can take pics with the mouth switch if I want to when shooting video at the same time. I only ever took out the camera twice so far, both times to get take-off and in-flight shots because our new plane doesn't have windows yet and I couldn't sit by the door to film and this was the only way to film behind the pilot's head although it was a hassle for me and the T/M. Anything for the customer ciel bleu, Saskia

You'll have to ask your instructors if they'll let you jump your own helmet, goggles won't be a problem as long as they're real skydiving goggles and clear not tinted, and they fit you, I'd suggest a clear Flex-Z/Flexvision/BrandX type of goggle, so a soft one-piece goggle (no bug-eyes or sunglass-types), that'll be alright with any instructor. If you wear contact lenses the fit is that much more important, in that case a Flex-Z is your best bet but go to a skydiving shop and try on goggles to see which are comfy and fit well. You may need to wear a radio or something so you may be stuck having to rent a helmet. If you do buy a helmet, get an open faced helmet not a fullface. The only helmets that offer real protection so are suitable for students (and a sensible choice for when you're not, too) are pro-tecs and similar (benny, fairwind), you have the best chance of being allowed to jump your own helmet if you get one of these (from a skydive shop, don't just get a skate or ski type helmet), make sure you buy one that covers your ears too so no half-shell type. ciel bleu, Saskia

Don't know about the specs, but a safire you need to flare quite deep. I think there's a difference between USA and Spanish Safire's (I've had both) but both have long steering lines to the point I had to shorten the ones on my safire 135 and i like my steering lines long but got short arms lol ciel bleu, Saskia

The Pulse is way more forgiving but fun to fly, the Sabre2 is more of a HP canopy, it'll dive longer after a turn and some have opening issues. If you want to swoop later on, get a Sabre2, if you want to have a forgiving canopy that flies really flat (gets you back from loooong spots), opens worry-free, levels out real quick after a turn (excellent wingsuit canopy, this) and is still fun to fly, a Pulse would be my recommendation. But of course you should demo both. ciel bleu, Saskia

I once did something similar on a few jumps with my then brand-new nikon d80: I locked the metering when half-pressing the shutter (AE lock turned on) so I could focus and meter and then re-compose the picture. This works fine on the ground but depending on how you have your remote wired it can royally screw up your pics by sticking to f2.8 for the entire jump if you turned on the camera inside the plane But in this case the camera says it picked f7.1 when to me it doesn't look like it actually did, so I'm guessing something else is wrong besides the camera sticking to a high f/stop because of one shot focus or AE lock, but it might be another thing to look at. ciel bleu, Saskia