mark
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Everything posted by mark
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Backflying with tandems (Was Rocky Point injury)
mark replied to davepend's topic in Safety and Training
Making progress. Still, it would be better if you stopped doing that entirely. Mark -
Look at http://performancedesigns.com/docs/PartsPriceList.pdf Their basic charge is $50, plus the $20 inspection fee, for a total of $70. Plus shipping and insurance, of course. I'm not sure, but I do not think their price includes reassembly on risers. Your price should reflect the time it takes you, plus the convenience for your customer (no shipping time), plus the savings on shipping and insurance. Mark
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The riser was manufactured with the RSL ring centered on the rear of the Type-17 riser, which allows the riser to be used with a right- or left-side RSL. If the loop is routed through the ring in this configuration (instead of pushing the ring aside), the ring adds a bit to the distance the loop needs to travel to get to the yellow cable, but doesn't put any stress on the cable itself when there is no RSL attached. Mark
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Yes, I was just commenting on how the 3-ring was assembled. I was assuming the rest of the assembly was correct -- thanks for pointing out that I was assuming a lot! Mark
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I'm having trouble picturing what you mean. Could you say more, please? Thanks, Mark
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I posted that I would jump it with the loop passing through the RSL ring. I was not confused about how it was assembled. I wouldn't assemble it that way, but the number of people who explained why it might be a problem is exactly zero. Mark
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Looks okay to me. Most folks wouldn't route the white loop through the RSL ring, and the left side cable housing usually goes under the harness webbing, but I'd jump it the way you've assembled it. Mark
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I wouldn't assemble it that way, either, but what difference would it make even if there were an RSL attached? Mark
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I&R Price - Raising yours if we go to 180 days?
mark replied to councilman24's topic in Gear and Rigging
Many (most?) riggers already do not meet the FAR currency requirements. The supply relative to demand will increase, currency will decrease. My income will go up because I'll be fixing their mistakes. Mark -
The PD manual you cite shows something different than what you did. The manual shows the factory set mark showing on the line between the knot and the brake eye. That's a good setting for conservative (!) Stiletto pilots. For the Stiletto 150 listed in your profile, PD says the length of the lower brake line should be about 17 inches from the brake eye to the toggle. (PD actually measures from the top of the brake eye, not the bottom, so their chart shows 18 inches.) What is the finished length of your brake lines? Mark
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If you board an airplane with the intention of landing in it, the FAA requires you to have an approved seat other than the floor. So if your jump plane doesn't have approved seats (most Cessnas and Skyvans, some Otters), what you are proposing is not legal in the US. I'd be happy to help load the equivalent weight in lead shot, steel plate, or water bottles. I'm all for pilot training, but I'm not for risking lives if there's an alternative method of making the weight and balance realistic. Mark
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Yes, you could have your toggles installed exactly on the mark. No, your toggles would not be set at exactly the factory-recommended distance from the brake-set eye. Fingertrapping, knots, bartacks and other sewing all shorten the line. Mark
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Like a green card? Mark
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? The Neptune seal is only required for water resistance. Also, no springs to fall out of your Neptune -- perhaps you are thinking of Pro-Dytter/Pro-Track springs? Mark
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Okay, I can think of a way to install snaps without punching holes in load-bearing webbing. OTOH, putting holes in the load-bearing webbing is generally cause for grounding the rig until the webbing can be replaced -- even if a rigger does it. Mark
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TSO C-23d (approval by US FAA) is not the same as JTSO - C23d (approval by European aviation authority), is it? Even if there is no US approval, Quick reserves would still be okay for use by visitors to the US, and an FAA rigger could pack them. Mark
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I hope that wasn't on a skydiving rig. Putting on snaps requires punching holes in the webbing. Mark
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If your hardware is stamped "PS24040" or "MS24040" you might try a spring tensioner (like Para-Gear item # H345) before you go the expense of changing out the hardware. The tensioner pushes against the bar, so the webbing is held more tightly. The tensioner installs with just a pair of pliers. The downside: unthreading the webbing becomes difficult or impossible -- not a problem if you were going to step in anyway. Mark
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It's German, meaning "original." Mark
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Each of the FSDOs got two copies free from the original printing, bound like any paperback book. I wouldn't expect to see many more "free" copies floating around, and the newer spiral-bound verson works better as a shop reference: folds flat, binding won't break, etc. Mark
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If a Master Rigger removes the RSL (and notes it on the packing card and in his logbook), and later wants to reinstall it, does he have to note the reinstallation on the packing card and in his logbook? Once the RSL has been removed by a Master Rigger, may a Senior Rigger put it back on without further approval? Now suppose a Senior Rigger finds a rig with the RSL installed, even though the data card says it has been removed. Should he remove it, or would that take another Master Rigger approval? Mark
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The side/pro-stacked method shown in the Parachute Riggers Handbook shows the clamps on the top of the canopy, not on the lines. The only time I've seen clamps used on the lines was on an over-the-shoulder pro-pack, to keep the lines centered first when flaking, then when making the transition from shoulder to floor. That rigger also used clamps around the B and C line groups. Bigger clamps, though, and really long flags. And a good tool count. A little fuel on the fire: a molar strap would likely have prevented the problem. Mark
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"Free-stowing" means coiling the lines in the pack tray (except for one or two locking stows). The lines in a "free stow bag" are stowed in a pocket on the bag, the way they are on a reserve. Either way makes nice openings most of the time. "Free-stowing" is sport death, though, as it's an invitation for the lines to half-hitch around a side-flap stiffener. We found that out in the early 80's. There needs to be enough unstowed line so the risers are unrestricted (don't catch on the reserve container) when the bag lifts off, but the sooner the lines are away from flailing limbs and flapping flaps, the better. Mark
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I did this change on a Rigging Innovations Telesis last month. The Telesis SOS handle mounts where the left mudflap normally is. The conversion required removing the SOS mount and replacing it with a standard mudflap. All the SOS cable housings (including ripcord housing) were too short for the two-handled system, so RI sent me new cable housings. Changing the cable housings was a simple matter of untacking the old ones and tacking the new ones in place. The rig already had pockets and velcro for the new cutaway handle and ripcord, so no modification needed there. Converting your rig should be no harder and may be much easier, since most rigs use the reserve ripcord pocket to hold a SOS handle shaped very much like their standard ripcord. Mark
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I agree the blades in most knives, including the cheap ones, are adequate. However, about two years ago at a nearby dropzone, a jumper snagged his main risers on part of the Cessna inflight door. He whipped out his orange-handle hook knife, which broke before he could complete the job. We do not know if the handle was damaged before the jump, so we don't know if a hook knife preflight would have been helpful. (Airplane preflight, maybe -- that's a different thread.) We do know that metal and polycarbonate handles do not break as readily as the orange plastic ones. It doesn't matter how good the blade is if the handle breaks. Your point about blades falling out is well taken, though. It doesn't matter how good the handle is if there's no blade. Mark