porterhouse

It depends a lot on the wind direction (head wind, tail wind, cross wind, no wind, variable winds, etc.). Generally, flying in half brakes decreases lift. Although half brakes does alter airflow, it also creates more drag on the canopy. Half brakes pulls down the tail of the canopy, which increasing the surface area along the back of the wing. Increased surface area = increased drag. Increased drag = slower forward speed. Slower forward speed = less air moving over the wing. Less air movement over the wing = less glide. Using rear risers creates increased lift by lowering the canopies angle of attack. Rear risers do not create the excess drag associated with toggle input, but you have to be careful with them. If you give too much rear riser input, you can stall the wing. Always practice everything up high first. Learn exactly how your canopy will respond to an input at a high enough altitude to cutaway. Then try it near the ground. Also, don't take my word for it. Any time you get advice from ANYONE, ask two other people the same thing. There is not one jumper in skydiving who knows all the answers. If you meet someone who thinks they know everything about skydiving, make sure you don't jump with them. And yes....DEFINATELY read 'The Parachute and Its Pilot'. Fly fun and land safe!

I hate it when you have to go take a shit at work, and you find ass hairs on the toilet!!! To all you mother f*ckers out there with a hairy ass: If one of your ass hairs fall out and lands on a toilet seat....WIPE THE F*CKING THING OFF!!!

Here's one for the guys: I FUCKING HATE IT when I need to drop a duece in the office bathroom, and there's PISS on the floor in front of the toilet!!! I CAN'T DO MY BUSINESS BECAUSE OF SOMEONE'S PISS!!! If I pull my pants down and sit on the toilet, my pants will be LAYING IN PISS!!!! WTF!!!!

If the $1K goes towards the purchase, then I would definately go for it. It sounds like a great program (wish I did that when I started jumping). It will let you take your time and find the rig and canopy that is right for you. Plus, (as was already mentioned) you'll save a ton of money in the long run by downsizing through the demo program, and then buying good gear that if fitted just for you, which you won't outgrow for many years. When your choosing the gear to purchase, just remember to do buy what feels right to you. Definately do your research and ask around. But in the end, you have to buy what you like (not what someone else tells you is what you should buy, based on thier opinions). It's your dime. Get what you want. As your demoing, you're going to find a certain canopy that will just sing to you. You'll just absolutely love flying it. Same with a rig. There will be one that just seems to fit you so well and that you feel incredibly comfortable in. That's the gear you should buy. Good luck!

Can you buy advertising through google/yahoo that will say 'SCAM!' whenver they are entered as a search, and then take you to a link that explains why? I know someone paid google so that if you ever enter the word "failure" into the search, it comes up with information on President George W. Bush. Why can't the same be done for skyride?

Does the $1,000 down go towards the purchase of the new gear when you decide to buy?

What stupid things do you encounter that make you insane? Here's mine: Why do stores always put the slowest f*cking checkout cashier on the EXPRESS register????? This just happened to me!!! I would have gotten out of the store faster if I got in line behind the white haired old lady with a full cart, who counts coupons, and pays with food stamps and penny's!!! WTF!!!! What makes you crazy!?

DO NOT CUT CORNERS ON YOUR GEAR! Your gear is the only thing that will keep you from crashing into the planet. Make sure you get what is right for YOU, YOUR experience, YOUR size, and YOUR discipline. At your level, you probably haven't figured out if you’re going to focus on freeflying or RW. You don't want your gear to control your choice. So remember, you can do RW in freefly gear, but you can't freefly in RW gear. As everyone else has said, don't buy gear just for the sake of buying gear. Get what's right for you. There are over 300 complete systems in the classifieds section of dz.com. If this doesn't turn out to be the right set up for you, keep looking. Find the next one you think is good, write another post, and ask again....we're all here to help you.....Dat's what we do!!!!! P.S. If you're not sure what constitutes freefly friendly gear, either ask in a post or PM me.

True, but if you unstow the toggles unevenly, before both end cells are inflated it can magnify the spin. If one end cell (say the right) is still deflated, the canopy will open in a right handed turn coupled by a slight downward pitch. If you try to correct the problem by unstowing your toggles to flare, and you accidentally unstow the right toggle a little bit before the left toggle, you'll be put into a much faster right handed spin. If you're in a fast spin like that, and you try to correct too much with a counter toggle, line twists could result. Like I said, I made that mistake once. I fly a conservatively loading Sabre2. When what I described above happened to me, it put me into an extremely fast, tight and disorienting spin. Since then, I've always gotten stable on rears first and THEN unstowed my toggles. No more problems since then.

I absolutely agree Wendy. I was mearly trying to let our friend know that there is a big difference between good used gear that is modern and safe, and used gear that has outdated technology which they will outgrow very quickly as they progress.

As soon as the canopy is fully inflated, go softly to your rear risers to get the canopy level and stable. Do NOT touch your risers until AFTER the canopy is fully inflated. (Doing so can give uneven inputs to during opening, which can really screw things up.) After you have used the rears to get stable and level...THEN unstow your toggles. If you unstow your toggles unevenly before you get both end cells inflated and stable, it can put you into a WICKED spin very quickly (I learned that one from experience.) Also, the packers at your DZ are usually an oasis of knowledge when it comes to opening problems. Buy them a beer at the end of the day and then ask them for advice Blues....

"DO NOT GO CHEAP ON YOUR GEAR!!!" That's one of the best pieces of advice I've ever received. Your gear is the ONLY thing that can keep you from crashing into the planet. It is NOT the place to cut corners and try to save a few bucks. If you want to stay safe and keep jumping into your golden years, then GET GOOD GEAR and maintain it meticulously. Buy gear based on what is best for you, not what the seller wants. Have fun, and stay safe.

The original Sabre's did have a problem with hard opening, but from what I understand it was fixed by adding a larger slider.

Remember the saying "If it sounds too good to be true, it probably is." I certainly can't say if this is the case or not, but a lot of things in this ad don't make sense. Most notably, the price: try to find any other ad that gives you a complete system, in such good condition, with low usage, and all brand new accessories for $1,500. You won't be able to. Also, the ad states that the DOM is 1994.....but it only has 75 jumps and looks brand new. Again, find me another rig that is 12 years old and has only 75 jumps. I must reitterate that I am not saying if this is a legit ad or not. Just trying to put a different perspective to your question. Blues...

Thanks Nanook! But I already checked that one....

Can anyone out there who can help diagnose the check engine light on a 2001 Saab 9-3? Does anyone know if there any way to do a self test on the car and diagnose what what the problem is, before I take it in to get fixed? Thanks!

Would it be possible to set up a buyer and seller feedback system for the classified ads on DZ.com? Something very similar to Ebay?

The line twist's suck!!!!...but that's a GREAT shot of the VISIO!!! Maybe they could use it in one of thier advertisments?...."A crystal clear display...even under the a spinning main"

Does anyone know if they will have the velcro wrist mount capability like the Neptune? (AKA, Will you be able to mount it on the underside of the wrist with just a velcro strap?)

I like to have funny conversations on the way to altitdue (e.g. figuring out all the different slang terms for certain anatomy, etc.). I also make sure I do something completely goofy and stupid just before exit (like throwing my hands up in the air and doing the retarded "TIMMY!!" cheer (from the crippled kid in South Park)). It makes everyone crack up (because I'm such a friggin' dork!), and reminds you that it's supposed to be fun and you're there to have a good time.

You obviously know a lot.... Thanks.

Question for all you smart gear folks out there? I have a rig that's a bit older. It is freefly friendly, but it doesn't have secondary riser covers on the inside. It's never given me any problems, but I was wondering if it safe and/or recommended for a rigger to install secondary riser covers on a rig. Any thoughts?

I was told that Zero P Pilot Chutes do not open as well as F-111 (let the debates begin). I had a zero-P PC for a very short period of time. It was such a bitch to pack, and it kept trying to slide out of my BOC. I replaced it after 1 day of jumping and went back to an F-111. I have some notes at home on how to check to see if the PC needs to be replaced. I'll see if I can dig them up.

Hello all. I was told there might be someone in this forum who can help me with a slider stow for my Mirage. I can't seem to find anyone at my DZ who has a stow on thier Mirage, and I have to figure out a way to keep my slider down behind my neck (other than leaning my head all the way back). Does anyone out there fly a Mirage with a slider stow? If so, can you provide some assistance about where I can obtain one, or what I need to do to build my own? Thanks!

Thanks