safetyjim

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Everything posted by safetyjim

  1. I echo what BListon has said -- it's a solid machine, with excellent manufacturer support by either phone or e-mail. Warranty is for *2* years, Parts and Labor. They also provide a wealth of information for hands-on user maintenance, including an excellent DVD on LSZ-1 timing, replacing different parts, etc. It's an all metal machine, geared for power, and meant to last forever. Like BListon, I would probably use a lighter-duty machine for canopy fabric but the LSZ-1 for everything else. I tested one a few weeks ago -- it did just fine on 2 layers of 430D packcloth, and sewed through 4 layers of Type 7 harness webbing (the most I could fit under the presser foot) without even blinking. It's hard to find a used LS-1 (straight stitch) or LSZ-1 (straight / zig-zag) machine -- the owners I've talked to don't ever want to part with 'em.
  2. I don't know what might have been said at the course, but Wayne's tips on the USAPR website (see attachment) show hemostats that are 1.5X the span of the person's four fingers. Those are the same length that ParaGear sells as 5" straight hemostats. (Either that or the guy in the photo has really, really tiny hands...)
  3. Rob, If you were doing rigorous fabric checks or canopy manufacturing, you'd probably want a commercial device. If, instead, a rigger simply wanted to measure permeability to compare fabrics or canopies, track their degradation, or just establish a baseline measurement when someone brings a canopy for inspection, a homemade set-up should work just fine. You would also have greater flexibility in how you choose to make the measurements -- you wouldn't be restricted to 0.5" H2O, or 100 mm, or a single standardized value. When I saw your post, I immediately knew at least one way to piece together a simple setup. (At work this would take about 20 minutes with high-school chemistry parts on hand; at home, I'd first have to go to the hardware store.) The 4 basic components you'd need are 1) a cell for holding the fabric, 2) a source of air pressure or vacuum, 3) a means for determining & controlling the differential pressure across the fabric, and 4) a means for measuring the air flow (okay, a watch or stopwatch might be #5). I haven't thought about #1, but #2,3,4,5 are straightforward, and I would think the whole thing could be assembled for less than $40 or so (maybe less than $20, if someone is really creative). I could attempt a legible sketch, if you're interested. Unless I travel somewhere warm, I won't be doing much jumping during winter...
  4. I spoke to Dave Sunday evening -- he's cheerfully receiving calls. I told him that I'd been out of state for several weeks (true), working long hours (true), and somewhat out of touch (also true). So it was news when someone said that, during the past week, the Washington Monument had been painted PINK from top to bottom, the Mississippi River had begun to flow backwards over its entire 1500-mile length, and Handsome Dave DeWolf had run out of jokes. I didn't believe them -- DAVE would never run out of jokes(!!) He said he's happy to have 5 arteries bypassed; they cost less when you buy 'em all at once.
  5. I have a ProTrack outside my ProTec, similar to what carduso described. For a ProTrack, simply position the mounting bracket where you want it (check by looking from the inside of the helmet, too) & drill a few small holes where needed. Attach bracket with zip ties. After the ProTrack is in its clip, I cut about 10 inches of vinyl electrical tape in half, lengthwise, and wrap one of the pieces around the perimeter of the ProTrack and its clip, so I know it'll stay in place. Don't use duct tape, which always leaves a residue.