beezyshaw

I love you, man.

Maybe think like this...you titled the thread "quitting smoking sucks", but really SMOKING IS WHAT SUCKS! Keep focused on what made you want to put them down, pretty soon you'll be repulsed by their nasty smell. Go to your closet and smell some of your wool sweaters you've worn to a bar, or smell someone's hands who just smoked a cig, NASTY.

Go to Frenchy's restaurant on Clearwater Beach and be prepared for the best damn blackened grouper sandwich you'll ever eat. Another good place for shops and restaurants is John's Pass down near Treasure Island.

I've been using it regularly to communicate from the USA to my business partners in Germany. It is MUCH clearer and crisper in sound quality than a telephone call...I was amazed when I heard the sound quality. And, as has been pointed out, the price is "very competitive". What gets me is that somehow I'm not being subjected to ads and such. What's in it for them?

Everytime I hear that PD suggests that someone not psycho pack I want to SCREAM! Folks, that packing method does not cause deployment problems. Period. For years I've been hearing "PD says I shouldn't pack like that..." There is NO deployment problem created by psycho packing. I have too much research, experience, and data to the contrary. OK, I'll get off my soapbox now, and go fix a damn drink to calm down!

And velcro really isn't bad at all for many uses on a rig. As a matter of fact, velcro toggles are probably less likely to have premature brake release than typical velcro-less toggles are. It isn't the velcro that is the problem, it is that jumpers typically don't immediately mate their toggles to the risers as soon as they land, allowing the lines to contact to hook velcro. I know of several jumpers who have gone back to velcro toggles to eliminate the problem of brake release on opening.

NOT to be confused with "Freak Brothers"... http://www.hiperusa.com/freakinbrothers.wmv

Don't worry, Mark, the 58 will be there with your name on it...oh, Kristi, do bring the shovel and tarp, if for no other reason than to do something with Mark's undies after a few jumps on it!

Alanab Amanduh Anthony Bdbrown beezyshaw BigM BillyVance Blueskyserenity Bobster Bolas CaliforniaFrenchy CapWeathersby ccowden Chaoskitty Charles Chiquita Cielodiosa Cory CrazyRick Crutch CSpenceFLY DaGimp Daizey Daskal David King Denis Divnswoop

Yes, that is correct. I know that the guys that are jumping cascaded HMA only get a couple of hundred jumps or so per lineset. Continuous lines aren't prone to those issues, and through the years I have seen many canopies with continuous HMA get a thousand jumps per lineset. We certainly don't use that number for average reline expectations; we say that with reasonable care 800 jumps is realistic. But again, harsh desert environments and other factors can affect the actual reline cycle.

Damn skippy! That's EXACTLY what we're going to do. Maybe attach some little advertising flag or something, explaining why we recommend these instead of the new-fangled crappy 3/4 tape that's hot-knifed and all. Excellent idea, Mr. Cooper. Now, while we're at it "DB", maybe you can dig up some of that mystery fortune and finance our new pull-up cord advertising promotion!

I just really don't quite know what to think...

Yep, another vote for Rob Warner. I'm now using my second glove from him. (BTW the first one is still in great condition, he just made some cameral angle changes in the latest version.)

Bill can jump in and correct me if I'm wrong, but I would say it does not apply to sport mains. One of things about tandem canopies with dacron lines is the fact that (on PD tandems at least) 900 lb line is used. That large line barely fits in the slider grommet, so when it becomes worn, and thus larger than when new, it lends itself to a higher malfunction rate. Sport canopies would usually be lined with 525 lb dacron, so the much smaller line wouldn't have the same consequences.

OK, yes it is a right riser! Hey, I'm left handed and if you know anything about left handed people our brains work backwards sometimes! Really LOL!! I'm really not that stupid, really. Just left-handed. I feel like an idiot. I posted this nice, informative thread and don't even know my left from my right!!

High Performance Research, also known as HiPeR, and our canopies are the Nitro and Blade.

Slinks with HMA suspension lines are 100% compatible. The excess wear issue has to do with the junction at the cascade points only. We have seen many of our canopies (all have HMA) with well over a thousand jumps per lineset that have used soft links made from Spectra (what PD uses for Slinks) and there is no indication of any wear due to the soft link.

Maybe a close second to using something for a pull-up cord that doesn't have any rough ends to damage the loop when you pull it out (like sissor-cut gutted 550, maybe?) So, moral of the story is, use the right material and the right technique and your closing loop will last a long time and closing your container is much easier.

No, that picture is of the left riser, so the line is to the inside and the loop to the outside.

Unless the method of stowing the "loop" requires otherwise, I put the "loop" to the outside and the "line" to the inside. That way, the "loop" is in the bottom of the container, instead of facing up when you lay the risers in. Again, probably more theory than anything else, but it seems logical to do it that way.

That's the point, you don't do anything. The soft feathered ends prevent closing loop damage. You fold the 550 over itself a few inches from the end and that's what you poke through each container grommet. It's much quicker than lining up the points of modern-day pull-up cords.

No, they use spectra line, probably the cypres closing loop material, but definitely not 550. My issue is the bulk of the thing where you have to pull it out of your closing loop has some sewing and it just doesn't pull out as smooth as gutted 550. And to me it's time-consuming to put it together then take it apart.

Actually, when they first came out, I was in Europe at the World Cup in Portugal, and I remember it being referred to as a "pack boy". I'm not so sure about the sound of "pack boy"

OK, so I've had a bloody mary and I'm feelin' a little loose...I just got through packing my rig for the weekend, and when I didn't have my fancy, advertising-imprinted, $0.35 a pop pull-up cord handy I grabbed a "real" pull-up cord out of my rigging kit. By "real" pull-up cord I mean a good ole' nice long piece of gutted 550...the real deal. Damn, how much better is this for closing containers than that 3/4 tape with ink on it that you have to line up the little points that isn't long enough to get a good wrap so that you can really get some leverage and it's hot knifed so that it tears up your closing loop much quicker pull-up cord crap that everybody uses these days? And along the same lines, how 'bout those little sissy necklace thingies that people use to close a container that you have to put the little loop over the little bar and all that bs and then un-do the little thingy when you get done so that you can put it back on your neck? GIVE ME A GOOD OLE' PIECE OF GUTTED 550 ANY DAY OVER ALL THIS OTHER CRAP PEOPLE USE TO CLOSE THEIR CONTAINERS...WHY DID I CONFORM ALL THESE YEARS TO THE MASSES? that is all, over and out

When brakes are set in the manner I refer to as the "correct" way, there is less stress on the control line because everything is left in the orientation it was intended for. It may be hard to visualize, but the "incorrect" way causes the "loop" to be bent against the stiching that forms the cats-eye. Also, depending on the way the top of the toggle is stowed, there can be slight pull against this stow material during deployment; again, maybe a little hard to visualize. I also believe that the more clean routing of what I refer to as the "correct" way makes for the easiest brake release and causes less wear on the line as the brake is released. I'll admit that it's not that it doesn't work to do it the other way, it's just that it's cleaner and the way it was designed to work to do it right. It's sort of like this...your slider will work ok if it's put on with the reinforcing tape facing the jumper, but the "correct" way to install a slider is for the tape to face the canopy.