RMURRAY

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Everything posted by RMURRAY

  1. RMURRAY
    I agree completely but I have found out this week that electroless nickel 3-rings are not "working out". it is not robust enough. Cad plated (used for years but which is being phased out due to environmental issues) is OK. When you are unable to get Cad plated 3-rings the only other choice will be stainless. for hip rings etc I'll bet electroless nickel is fine (no high pressure contact like 3-rings). just my opinion and I am not a rigger. rm
  2. RMURRAY
    OK, learned something today. here is one response from JumpShack.... "True. Can and has happened due to bad plating. We have stopped using Nickel for this reason, as have some other manufacturers. Stainless is the best, though a bit pricey. Cadmium is still OK." I will post one more if I get a response.
  3. RMURRAY
    Try again. I have nickle on my Mirage and a very hard opening was all it took to have the nickle plating starting to chip off on one of my risers. Thankfully, it's not chipping on any of the hardware on the rig itself, but I'll be getting stainless next time. just because it happened does not mean it will happen in the future. that would be like me saying do not buy stainless steel hardware because it slips - this was true but they have made changes and should not be the case today.
  4. RMURRAY
    Nickel plating sometimes starts flaking off. Especially where the three-rings overlap and rub against each other. I will try to get a couple of manufactures to dispell this myth. ie if you have witnessed flaking it was an isolated quality control issue. from the relative workshop site... "Stainless steel hardware: This is recommended in areas that have a highly corrosive environment. Our standard hardware is electroless nickel."
  5. RMURRAY
    as far as I know the DZ can dictate the rules. get a repack before you leave - its cheaper.... rm
  6. RMURRAY
    Are you suggesting that all those manufacturers of container/harnesses are not using "truth in advertising" when all of their brochures say we have the choice of having Stainless Steel hardware? no, the are using stainless steel. he is saying stainless steel does corrosde. ie it is "stain-less". by definition stainless steel is > 10.5% chromium. Invented Sheffield England in 1913 while trying to solve a problem of errosion (due to rapid heating and cooling) of rifle barrels. they found it did not stain like regular steel. most popular grade is 18% chromium and 8% nickel - not sure what they use for harness hardware.
  7. RMURRAY
    SS is a waste of cash - I'd get nickel plated...rm
  8. RMURRAY
    loaded below 1:1 it may be suitable. hope you talking to people like Nancy at JumpShack and not basing your decision on people who happen to respond to your question on DZ.com --- nothing can replace picking up the phone and talking to someone who will supply the entire system (container, main, reserve and aad) and who will need to stand behind that recommendation. of course, this is just my opinion and I am not even a rigger.... rm
  9. RMURRAY
    here is nancy's response from JumpShack.....(I don't think I told her your jumps numbers, I was thinking 350 or even 400 Firebolt) "I've been REALLY busy, hope I'm not too late to respond. I'd love to talk to this guy on the phone to see if he is a "healthy 350 pounds out the door" - like Shaquille O'Neill and not just fat, if you know what I mean. Yes, the FireBolt 350 would be an excellent choice for him as would the FireBolt 300. I'd like to talk to him about his canopy skills and more. Absolutely reccomend that he call me! Thanks, Nancy" rm
  10. RMURRAY
    I wish I could buy a Ford Focus with the 1.4 litre turbo diesel they sell in Europe but with this attitude (above) no wonder they are not for sale here. The smart car is for sale here in Canada and it uses a 0.8 litre turbo diesel but is a little small (just for commuting) and expensive...
  11. RMURRAY
    You will find a diesel in your DZ Cessna some day. Here is what I'd like to see in our U206. 350HP V8 turbo diesel, runs on JET A (same as a turbine) http://www.centurion-engines.com/c40/c40_start.htm
  12. RMURRAY
    I'd say most people never clean and lubricate them. people don't like to talk about it much.... rm
  13. RMURRAY
    This from Nancy at JumpShack... I don't think that would be possible with a correctly packed and sized speedbag. Especially with the current production, two-flap speed bag. I'm a little suspect of the packing. A certain amount of common sense must be used as far as how much canopy can stick out of the bag, and how much needs to be in the bag. Some canopy sticking out is very acceptable in some cases. I don't know if you can post pictures on dz.com, but the attachment shows how the reserve deployment bag should look from a couple of different angles. Thanks for letting me know. Feel free to post my reply. Nancy
  14. RMURRAY
    I'd buy used and separately for all pieces. There is a ton of stuff out there. Just get an experienced person to help. A brand new container is expensive even at 50% off. Let the rich kids buy new.... rm
  15. RMURRAY
    I am the opposite. I started 4 way RW at 30 jumps and will never stop. When will I start sit??? When no one else will jump with me!!!
  16. RMURRAY
    I pay for every jump I make - all 4 way team jumps - I cannot afford an AAD at the moment. If I could afford one, I'd rather reline my main or blow it on tunnel time...the bottom line is it should be optional - most people have them anyway. rm
  17. RMURRAY
    good to hear. I am no fan of Precision stuff but own a 150-M loaded about the same. I have not had a jump on it but will be very careful when I do. I own mine because they are cheaper (ie affordable) used - next time I will go with a PD143R - I'd sell mine to someone loading it closer to 1:1
  18. RMURRAY
    I agree. On my recommendation, my DZO bought one of your dome sliders for his Sabre1 170 and now he can dump at terminal. Before he refused due to repeated hard openings - despite trying all packing tricks we could come up with. Cheaper than buying a new canopy! rm
  19. RMURRAY
    while you are at it can you order me somthing???
  20. RMURRAY
    So, there was an issue with the coating cracking on a particular type of cable at some point, yet you say it's maintenance free? Personally, I'd still pull the cables out occasionally and inspect it for cracking...... Also, the red cable SHOULD be compatible with metal inserts since that's how they are routed to the 3 ring assembly I don't say the red cable is maintenence free --- JumpShack does. They say you don't NEED to clean it and never need to lubricate it. I do clean/inspect mine once a year. It should be compatable (like you say) with metal inserts but I only buy risers made by the rig manufacturer --- JumpShack don't make risers with hard housings --- their testing shows they are not needed (again, with the red cable). So what was the root cause of the hard pull - a non lubed cable maybe???
  21. RMURRAY
    From an earlier post by the old guy with the big beard: The red cable is Teflon. It is very slippery, but not very tough. (You can even damage it with your fingernail.) I have seen it crack and come off the end of the cable. If it were better than Lolon, I would use it. The cracking red cable was an issue with one batch when it was being introduced. I think it is far to say the yellow (Lolon) cable is extremely tough and the red (teflon) cable is not as tough. but when people do not clean and lubricate their cutaway cables (and no one I know does) then which one would be better? The red cable is maintenence free. I also wonder if the red cable is compatable with metal riser inserts. Anyway, what was the root cause of the original posters problem??? rm
  22. RMURRAY
    Good info from Parachutist - I receive Skydiving but not Parachutist. I buy my risers from JumpShack and JumpShack say they are not needed for their rig. Maybe I will do my own testing (2 bloke test) to make sure. rm
  23. RMURRAY
    So what was the root cause of the problem. Was your yellow cable clean and lubricated??? I asked only because my buddies here (with highly loaded cross braced canopies) just laugh when I ask them - in fact nobody I know clean/lubs their (yellow) cable properly. The red cable may be harder to terminate and not as tough but overall I'd say it is better since you don't need to touch it. I guess I will need to test myself because no one (including JumpShack) has been able to give me proper comparative test results... rm
  24. RMURRAY
    A search for 'Hard Cutaway' will provide some info too. Derek searching DZ.com does not prove anything to me - I'd like to see real test data. John Sherman says they are not needed (on my racer) so I will go with what he says. This has been discussed before - I don't mean to highjack the discussion. rm
  25. RMURRAY
    If the risers were twisted together, then the cutaway cables were also twisted together. Without the protection of metal housings, this twisting causes the cutaway cables to be much harder to pull than normal. Derek I'd like to see evidence of this (as in test data).... rm