newshooter12

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Everything posted by newshooter12

  1. newshooter12
    just start flying with more leg pressure to compensate for the wings wanting to rotate your upperbody up. that's the advice i got from some DZ camera fliers. matt
  2. newshooter12
    nice find
  3. newshooter12
    I started guessing by clicking on the links in the map in florida and california... no luck yet. Matt
  4. newshooter12
    Any one catch the story about DB Cooper and how someone is trying to pin the crime on a DZO? I just caught the tail end of it here on the east coast. Matt
  5. newshooter12
  6. newshooter12
    do a search in this forum i'm pretty sure i've posted the directions. matt
  7. newshooter12
    DSE - I've got the previous model of Sony VRD-MC3 and haven't had any problems. I use it mostly to dump Mini-DV to DVD, but have also played around with it as a PnP DVD burner off my laptop as well as to dump CF cards to discs. Matt
  8. newshooter12
    Thank you!! I'm going to pass this along to a firefighter friend... Maybe he'll know which firehouse the card was stolen from Matt
  9. newshooter12
    Nice try You'll just have to buy one and then do a practice cutaway to understand why I should have taken the picture while it was apart that time. Matt
  10. newshooter12
    your welcome, but no inside picture for you That damned thing is such a pain to put back together Matt
  11. newshooter12
    Yes. The hinge is... it's part of the system to relieve the pressure like a 3-ring setup does so that you can cut the helmet away. Here's a picture of the outside of the hinge on one. The inside doesn't take much to imagine. There's a loop on one side with the yellow cutaway cable running through it and the other side of the loop is knotted. then there's two nuts holding the bolts to the helmet. Matt
  12. newshooter12
    It's not at all like the one on the Illusion. I know someone on here has posted those pix before... just can't remember who. sorry Matt
  13. newshooter12
    you should be good with that lens anyway... the sweet spot for most lenses should be between f8-11. and the DOF will be greater than when you're at a lower f-stop. are you shooting in RAW mode? that'd give you some more latitude after you've shot it and for post processing than a JPEG. nice work and engineering any way you cut it though. keep up the good work. Matt
  14. newshooter12
    The PC 350 has a larger sensor and some features that are very handy. The PC109 is effectively a scaled down version of it... though still a good camera. The PC 1000 is the one my instructor got for a whole lot less than i picked up my PC350 for. The only downfall i see of the PC 1000 is the internal batteries and lack of external focus control or mic input. Matt
  15. newshooter12
    Just save your money and put it towards jumping. Seriously. It's not a blow you off answer. Most people will have their camera sitting on a shelf for 99% of the time anyway. When I bought my mini-dv cam I was thinking like you.... have a camera when i need it, etc. However the next season one of my instructors bought a better camera for about half of what I spent on mine. Plus batteries are harder to come by for late model cameras the older they get. When you're ready to fly camera: -buy what works for you and your helmet -set it up right the first time (upgrading cameras is nearly always more expensive than getting it right the first time) And hopefully the prices will be lower with a much better product out there when you're ready. If you're still hell bent on buying a camera look for a used one because you're opinion of what you want will probably change before you're ready to set up a helmet for it. Matt
  16. newshooter12
    Not all DVD cams/drives are created equal. One jumper at my DZ had a mini-dvd camera from sony for a while and it worked for freefall. However it didn't have a firewire port so ended up not using it for too long. There's video out there of Sony's XDcam strapped to a jumper's torso/chest and making a skydive. Plus the video from the camera rolling the whole time, but I think part of the reason XD is so reliable is it's huge buffer. I'm not sure consumer cameras have anything close to the buffer space though. Matt
  17. newshooter12
    i think you can still buy a kit to make one or premade fibre optic type indicator through paragear. square1 may have them as well. Matt
  18. newshooter12
    sounds like it isn't going to please this crowd to make the workflow. well... work. efficiency and consistency in shooting helps keep more of the boring/hard/annoying parts out. remember. Crap in = crap out... or maybe with a plunger in the middle if you want to force it to work Matt
  19. newshooter12
    My err... my former g/f's camera... has a nice feature that allows you to see the overlap needed in panorama mode with an on-screen portion of the previous photo superimposed to guide you. on an SLR and with a stitching program all you do is level the tripod. lock down the tilt. plan your pan so you have landmarks as reference points. lock out your metering/exposure/etc.... fire away and move progressively left to right. you end up with the same thing. just make sure the lens doesn't have too much barrel distortion or is to wide. Matt
  20. newshooter12
    check out the search function or look up the Thread DSE made about his shoot in the grand canyon with the PD team (in this forum). all sorts of good info there. I think he's got some reviews on his website as well. Matt
  21. newshooter12
    who ever it was that said, "you don't need a tripod" is either REALLY quick with photoshop or likes punishment. Having a locked down shot where you just use your remote to trigger the camera as the subject comes through the frame will save you tons of time compositing the images in any editing program. Or recreating the effect in a real darkroom with film negatives and paper too Matt
  22. newshooter12
    -Nikor 16mm -Shutter Priority -1/320th minimum faster if it's really bright -Continuous Shutter -Lens cap OFF -Continuous Auto Focus -Matrix Metering pattern -Closest Subject priority focus -2Gig Lexar 80x -Cloudy WB Setting -Freshly cleaned and cat crapped lens (only had it fog up once unlike video) -.NEF file format aka... RAW - 0 exposure compensation unless i'm doing a shot into the sun where i don't want a sillouette I'll get the flash taken care of eventually, but i'm not excited to change more batteries, have the extra weight or just deal with one more piece of equipment. I like the silloutte sun shots personally anyway. Plus the RAW files leave a lot of latitude compared to .JPEGs. Matt
  23. newshooter12
    that's the mirror that you look through the lens with while focusing, etc... dust in there could mean dust on the sensor too, but the sensor sits behind the mirror as well as shutter. It's only exposed when you push the shutter release. not sure if the XTi has a mirror lock-up function like nikons to see what may be in there. you could always just have dust or tiny specs of dried whatever on either end of your lens that only show up in a shot like you posted. in my experience lens dirt, gunk, dust, you name it... stands out the most when you are shooting evenly colored backgrounds, into the sun or other bright light. Matt
  24. newshooter12
    Like the last guy said. I forgot to mention I ended up picking up a few knock off connectors on ebay. So I didn't feel guilty about trashing the good one I bought. as a search type in: nikon d200 remote Matt
  25. newshooter12
    avenfoto, There are only three wires in there that you should be concerned with to make the connection you need. However you may be best off picking up, or at least looking at, an MC-22 first... also found at B&H HERE It has the colored wires on the ends that may help you narrow your search.... from there I'll PM you more details. Matt