photognat

You mean like this? ($30) http://www.skyswitches.com/index.asp?q=buy&c=

He already sells right angle switches for every Sony multi-terminal camera. http://www.skyswitches.com/index.asp?q=buy&c=

Cool, thanks! Is the problem with the bite switch that the microswitch is breaking/disconnecting or the shrink tube tearing? If it's the shrink tube you could include a couple extra pieces of shrink tube with one side pre-shrunk & glued so they just have to remove the old one and slide the new one on and heat it. Or switch to a surface mount switch and use a heavy wall tube. Although having to replace the switch after 6 months of regular use isn't a big deal IMO. Here are some shots from Saturday with your switch: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B9-bmfLqx6TCYml1QmdubF9obDA

What about running the wire through a thin walled aluminum tube and bending it 90 degrees? Or maybe through a plastic tube and then heat the tube and then bend it. Or running a metal wire (like a metal clothes hangar) alongside the wire and then heat the shrink wrap tightly at the ends but not in the center so that it can be bent? Toughening it up a little bit so it can be used as a bite switch would solve the left or right side problem. Or just have it as another order option.

Posting this here because there's not a place in the gear review section for Sky Switches: I messaged Kris at Sky Switches (skyswitches.com) about making a custom two-port adapter so I could shoot two Sony mirrorless cameras. He replied almost instantly asking how I'd be using it and then sent me a very reasonable quote for the switch within 9 minutes. Cost for the whole thing (mouth switch to 2.5mm, 2.5mm to dual Sony plugs) was way less than Chutingstar's price for a single 2.5mm to Sony multi adapter. He had it custom built and shipped out within a couple days and kept me updated on a small change before he'd shipped it. I received it 4 business days later (EU, but he ships worldwide). Build quality of the switch and his custom right angle Sony plugs were very good. The switch is solid with plenty of shrink wrap to reinforce it and the Sony plugs fit very snug. They will definitely not be falling out mid-jump. They take more force to remove than my other Sony mouth switch. The only thing I didn't like about it is that the mouth switch is straight instead of in a right angle, so when you use it as a tongue switch it has to stick straight out and then curve around to go back into your helmet, leaving a fair bit of excess cable flopping around before you put the helmet on and then once you mount it and have the switch in your mouth, if you push it out to talk to someone it flops down and you have to re-insert it with your hand. Check the attached photos to see what I mean. My Exit Equipment switch (which would have been around twice the price of the two-plug Sky Switch) with a right-angle mouth switch ends up snug with your face and you can push it out of your mouth to talk and then grab it with your teeth again. The Sky Switch mouth switch also has a flat part on the top and a notched part on the bottom, so once you get used to it you'll want to have it facing the same way every time and you may have to put it in your mouth, feel that it's the wrong way, and then flip it the other way with your hand. If it was a right angle then it would only go one way and you'd never have to check if it needs to be flipped. If it had a right angle mouth switch that was flat/symmetrical I'd give it 10/10. As it is I'd still buy one with a 2.5mm adapter so you can see if you like the mouth switch and have the option to change it. Highly recommended.

Sony a6000 (or a5100) with a Sony 16mm/20mm pancake or Sigma 19mm is one of the lightest, cheapest, and highest image quality setups you can get. The Fuel is fine as long as you have a chin cup instead of the normal strap. Get a Sony mouth switch from Skyswitches.com and you're set for ~$600. You'd have to spend at least 2-3x that much to get noticeably better stills.

Speedflying harnesses are cheap ($150-$250 used), but a BASE harness works just fine for flying or cutaways. Speedflying wings are also much cheaper than their sky equivalents. $500 buys you a 3 or 4 year Gin Nano or a 20 year old Sabre 1.

They were doing unpacked jumps (rollovers), meaning the entire canopy (240-300sqft usually), lines, and risers are out and usually being held around or in front of the jumper as soon as they gear up, so much of their rig is being covered up or draped in random lines. The guy also geared up at the exit point on the bridge, not before. Watch the video, he walks up and you can't see any of his rig from the front. A closer equivalent would be gearing up a wingsuit without leg straps, which unfortunately didn't go so well the last time at Sebastian.

Pick NTSC/60FPS. 24/25P makes action look blurry.

Haha, that's hilarious. That's really cool. Did you send anything to Parachutist? You should start adding jumpers at other Bay area DZs with just a 2M handheld and a repeater.

Wait, so you think what the wannabe cop did to 377 was appropriate? The average Yaesu or Baofeng with a factory duck that an unlicensed user might buy comes with a stock configuration that makes it pretty hard to accidentally interfere with other radio users. The FCC doesn't care about them. The FCC cares about people who are actually interfering with other users. Almost every fine they pass out (except to cell phone jammers) is to users who have a license but are operating illegally, mostly for shits and giggles.

What a fuckwit. You guys could have gotten him in trouble for that. Every person I've met who vehemently checks that everyone is licensed is a total twat. Tech licenses cost $5 and about 20 minutes of study time. If you have nothing better to do with your time than police your outdated hobby that nobody cares about, go jump off a cliff. -KJ6***

3M sticky tape, same stuff Gopro mounts use. You can buy rolls of it on Amazonia.

Yeah, EDFs can be tuned for higher thrust at maneuvering speed, but you still can't cheat the fact that you're going to have 50% of the power once you reach 50% of the efflux. Not even NASA's team could. Spoken as a true academic. Static thrust is completely irrelevant except for the fact that it's what every EDF uses to rate its power. So yes, irrelevant until you leave the classroom and actually start building stuff like Travis.

The problem is specifically with electric ducted fans since they have a low exhaust velocity (around 200mph) that does not increase with the aircraft's airspeed. So when flying at 100mph your thrust is about half of what it is on the ground. Turbines and jets don't have that problem.

And telling people that they can't do math isn't rude? I don't have a case, I'm not really trying to argue this. You're not going to find any mathematical models that will accurately tell you exactly how much thrust you're gonna need without a whole lot of horizontal wind tunnel testing. Assuming a large suit with a very good pilot and a Flysight to finely tune your AOA and body position, 80lbs of actual thrust exiting the wingsuit while you're flying at 120MPH should suffice. In the real world that still puts you at around 200lbs of rated thrust on the ground. Or at least before you modify the exhaust for lower thrust but higher exit velocity. And yes, rated thrust was exactly what we were talking about. Read a few comments up where we were discussing EDFs capable of 50-60lbs of static thrust, using multiple units for a total of 200lbs, which you then quoted me on. If you still think I'm wrong, here's a design for an EDF powered plane at a very similar airspeed (97kts). Page 25 has the good parts. http://nari.arc.nasa.gov/sites/default/files/Kerho_TeDP.PhaseI.Final_.Report.ContractNNX13AB92A.pdf

Let me put it in simpler terms that even a professor can understand: At trim speed in a wingsuit your actual thrust will be 30-50% of what the EDF is rated at.

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=edf+efflux+speed+vs+thrust

2 things: Travis' size and the amount of thrust Yves is working with. Unless you weigh 80lb or 90lbs, I'd be very surprised if 80lbs of thrust is enough to maintain level flight. Once you add all the weight and have the EDFs sticking out, your L/D is not gonna be 3:1. Additionally, all thrust quotes are based on static thrust. As you approach your EDF's efflux speed (probably 190-220mph), your thrust drops to 0. That's the main reason Yves has to use a turbine, an EDF simply won't allow him to fly faster than ~170mph. You're also going to want to over-rate all of your hardware so you don't run it at 100% all the time. 80lbs of thrust is considered about the very minimum to fly a paramotor with a paraglider that has a 7:1 glide ratio, and that's at 30mph. You might be able to stay level with an Aura 2 pulled up in a stall at 70mph, but that's about it.

Nope. This is the first action camera (other than the Kickstarter Revl) with optical stabilization (BOSS). The X1000 and other Sonys only have electronic stabilization at 1080/60 and they make the image look like smeared puke. Optical stabilization is what allows the X3000 to still work at 4k/30 & 1080/120 since it doesn't require electronic image processing.

Ah, sick! That thing would rip on a C-Race. Setup for speed instead of glide is an interesting choice for BASE. Good luck, looking forward to seeing it here in Brento :)

http://www.sony.jp/actioncam/products/FDR-X3000/ Flat bottom for easy mounting, BOSS in 4K and 1080/120. $500.

Maybe, problem is you need the intake directly exposed to the airstream and the exhaust can't have anything blocking it. You also don't want flapping nylon around the hot bits. Then you have possible thrust vector/control issues with the thrust coming from aft CG.

That's really cool, but I don't see how the math can work based on currently available hardware. You'll need >= 200lbs of thrust to be able to maintain level flight with a GR of 2.5-3:1 (which will drop due to all the extra drag & weight). It looks like you're using a DS-94, so let's say you've got 30lbs of thrust. So you'd need at least 4 of those to actually start seeing something resembling powered flight. There are units that can give you almost 50lbs of thrust (TF-8000, 14S, 140mm fan), but you'd need a couple of them and at 17kw (22 horsepower!) each you'll need a 320A+ ESC and a 15AH 14S battery (about 20lbs all together) for each one to have enough power for 2 1/2 minutes of flying (and some reserve so you don't kill the batteries). Then you've got multiple 22HP engines close to your body spinning a blade at 50,000RPM that was designed to go on a toy. For this to be viable with a single EDF the fan needs to be much bigger, maybe 250-300mm. Right now there's nothing like that on the market but I'm sure there will be in another 5-10 years.

https://amsrvs.registry.faa.gov/airmeninquiry/ It is possible to remove yourself from here but most people don't file the paperwork.