
DeNReN
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Everything posted by DeNReN
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I was quite busy at work today so didnt get to pursue your problem...but I did have a junior back parts person do some checking...we and all of our aftermarket suppliers only list one clutch and pressure plate kit...no questions asked for model or spline count..... I also had her call the dealer and investigate....told the top dealer parts guy that it was a US vehicle, gave serial number...he said he only listed one set too.... Our price on a kit was just shy of $400...Dealer was $625ish for the kit....flywheel was something stoopid like $1400 I hope you have called a local dealer youself and got prices and INFORMATION....the tranny shop you are dealing with may be correct but making some calls never hurts. I really question why a flywheel needs replacement...over 20 years in the trade and maybe have replaced 2 flywheels... Fool...what did your students come up with?
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Its a 1.... 1st digit of a VIN is for country where assembled, 1 is the US, 2 Canada, J Japan... only the last 6 digits are numbering the vehicle all others represent something.... 10th digit is the year of manufacture for another example
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Information what engine is the explorer? I have never heard of what you are talking about...but then again I really know nothing in the vast vast world of automobiles. I can however say that the likelyhood of Ford tooling a plant to produce a engine block specificly for one transmission is highly unlikely. not freaking likely at all. A block for a 2002 4.0l is the same as a block from a 1996 4.0l Information...you need correct information.....dont listen to your friend billy bob who's sisters boyfriend told you about a torqued out spindle rotor causing the gypsum sadle to well....... And what is the problem?...do you need a new clutch? a new transmission? spindle rotor? Edited to add: hell...whats the vehicle information? VIN, milage, engine, (5 speed?) and I will research it for you tomorrow at work if I get a chance.
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This thread making anyone else hungry?
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Please explain why lower then 1.2 will most likely result in a accident.
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Still waiting on parts? I had typed up a long responce the other night...but was drinking so deleted it Intermittent problems are very common with automotive electronics....about 60% of the cars I diagnose for check engine lights have a intermittent problem.
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Any new information?? I need closure man!!!
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heard the ECU??? while I am not familiar with your car...I have never heard a solid state devise make a noise besides a distinctive electrical shorting noise usually followed by a big puff of smoke....ending the life of the unit instantly. ECU's can and are used to drive the control circuit of a relay which can be heard as it is or can be a electromechanical switch.... What diagnostic time are you being billed? I have replaced a shitload of ECU's on north american vehicles...but very few on asian vehicles ( work split 60/40 n/a to asian) if you can...get the old ecu back and open it up...see if you can spot obvious signs of failure...breaks in the printed circuit, burn marks, corrosion....or things that just went poof!!!! Edited to add: forgot where I was going...a mechanical device or a electromechanical device is more common to fail then a solid state device. I have replaced way more relays then ECU's !!!!!
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interesting I'd love to know the diagnostic flow that was used to come to that...but I'll prob never see a car like yours so it dosent really matter... did the tech say what was wrong with it or that replacing it was the next step in the flow chart?
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Well.....I can only make wild guesses without actually seeing the vehicle...and seeing how the shop that performed the work is going to look at it I will wait to hear back what is said. Offering to redo the flush with the newer fluid and the fact that they are checking TSB's is a good sign. The knocking under feet when turning the steering is quite common and is a joint in the intermediate steering shaft.....I have seen many many colbalts/pusuits/G4's 5's etc with the control arm flat bushings completey seperated with the control arm sitting metal to metal on the sub frame... Please keep us informed
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A vacuum leak can usually be described as a hiss not a whine...tell me more about the whine...what gear? does it change with engine rpm? will it do it in park or neutral?..does it change with road speed? detailed information please. where does the clunk come from? front,back...pass or driver side?.....can the clunk also be heard with application of the brakes? (common problem is the front control arm rear "flat" bushing completely seperating) detailed information please. your invoice should have the fluid type they put in on it. thats quite awhile to have a car for...but the hollidays will certainly slow down things...was the tank dropped for the other work? What other work was done? detailed information please.
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No offence taken Squeak...I just like bustin your balls wish I could help with your problem...however I am not familiar with your model car.and you have not given percise information.... as others have said...check obvious stuff like loose or bady corroded cables to the battery etc..(you actually need to take battery cables off to check them properly) if you own a volt meter do a quick check for charging voltage (needs to be above 13.6 volts..should be over 14volts) One thing I can tell you....its not the freaking fuel filter .... I always joke at work about people who come in and want us to install a fuel filter or pump because they think the car is "NOT GETTING ITS GAS!!!!!!!" good luck finding a tech you can talk to...feel free to ask me questions...I will help if I can.
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Make sure you call the tech who you bring your car to a clown before he/she looks at it
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Ooops.....sorry...had a bad case of not reading the OP fully before responding
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alot of older VCR's can be used for inputs.....usually one set of RCA inputs on the back and one on the front.....you must have or had a VCR...
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Its a nice 4 deg C here today....anything above freezing this time of year keeps my heating costs down and me happy.
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Ive been using propane/oxygen torches for over 20 years. propane is cheap compared to other "torch" gasses and burns hot enough to tackle almost any automotive need. here in rust country we use alot of heat....have propane/oxygen in every second bay.....(we have a oxygen genorator next to the compressors)...I deal with siezed bolts/nuts every day at work. I can replace a average muffler assembly in 5 to 10 mins. but usually let the aprentices deal with shitty exhaust work
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I look forward to a epic tale of your adventures in exhaust work (with pictures) once the new muffler arrives And I hope its not a freaking chachi muffler!!!!
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the electric angle grinder with a cut off disk will be hard to use in tight places... alot of exhaust hangers can be unhooked which aids in clearance for tool use a air cut off tool is usually a cheap tool...but requires a decient compressor.... Dremels or any small rotary tool can be used, but patiance required. What size are the bolts/studs ?? 10mm 8mm ?
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got a picture? What tools do you have? any air tools....compressor... electric ..grinder?
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Is this a flange to flange joint with nuts and bolts? studs and nuts? nuts and bolts.....dont screw around, slice them off with a torch or a cut off tool. nuts and stud....if atempting to save stud, heat and break free with a inpact tool ( pressed in studs in a pipe flange can easily be knocked out and replaced with nuts and bolts.. Edited to add: really need alot of information to give "good" internet advise
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http://www.dropzone.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=3757027#3757027 Same gear?
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A outside pocket or 2 is always very useful.
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Any Skydiving Christmas Presents??
DeNReN replied to scholarkyle's topic in General Skydiving Discussions
The g/f gave me a set of under armor for the colder jumps -
So.... Brother and his G/F coming boxing Day... We never exchange presents... Wrapped up a canned Ham and put a tag on it ...To brother and g/f Fr. Riser Cat Got the g/f a snow shovel for a joke present too..... If I dont post in 2 days...call the police. Merry Hollidays All