DeNReN

I am extreemly impressed buy that pic of a skyhook cutaway... only a Free T-Shirt could impress me more

I would very much like a Free T-Shirt but do not have a reserve ride on a skyhook equiped rig could I do a testominal after watching the several video's of skyhook deployments to get a Free T-Shirt??

Wow...whats this your 1st post in a year or 2?? I'm on it also...souleh is on my friend list...pretty cool place..but lots of potential for identity theft etc...same as any internet thingy though...beware of what information you put out there! I've reaquainted with friends from growing up..good to talk to them again...now it will be another 25 years before I talk to em again

RUSH

Pulley ring is installed upside down. Otherwise, an outstanding diagram. Hey, you asked! Mark and the deflection area would be from attachment point to attachment point..... you asked great pic..let me understand what was being discussed without having to think

Thats damn fine advise...personally I think that everyone should try and keep acruate jump numbers...years in sport...licences...ect showing on the forums.... nothing worst then ........wait...oopsy... Look at your own profile DSE

well well well...with all this headlight talk and my helping you out....I'm gona need to see your headlights....high beams in particular....to make sure they are wired correct.

and?????

OK fellow Canadians its time to buy all those things from the US we always wanted.... The Canadian dollar is now worth more then the USD!!!!!

did someone say toast??! "smoke me a kipper I'll be home for breakfast"

I just sent a bitmap of the wiring diagram and a DRL module location bitmap to your shaw.ca email....files were way too big to post here. Any tech with a test light and that wiring diagram should be able to diagnose the problem fairly fast....and of course have the vehicle in front of them One quick check is to power everything back up and let the lights stay on for a few min's....check the DRL module to see if its smoking hot....all the defective DRL's on chrsyler products that I've come across have been quite hot. the DRL module is black approx 3x3x1.5 in ....open on the backside and half filled with a clearish dielectric gel...if there is any black...its toast

well.....I will grab the wiring diagram for ya tomorrow....thats if your still looking for info.. I have a feeling about this one.....gona be the DRL module Does moving the tilt colume have any effect on any lights?

and??

most likely the DRL module...fairly common on dodges......think they go for a lil over $100

oopsy...missed the last couple of posts to this thread Glad you finally got it all sorted out...However I do recall saying that if you didn't see a obvious problem with the head gaskets to pull the pistons out for inspection while it was apart............ Now mow like you have never mowed before!!!! Mow MOW Mow Mow moW mow and mow some more

hmm..now thats better info so the caliper is not sliding on the "sliders" that connect it to the pad craddle?........very common problem.......the rear upper sliders are fixed to the craddle on that car and the rear floats in tha caliper... make sure both slider pins(fixed and unfixed) are clean(I generally use a grinder mounted wire wheel)....remove and clean all rubber boots....clean out the slider bores in the caliper(or craddle) with a round file and some brake clean or another suitable solvent.. Rust build up between the stainless shims on the craddle and the craddle itself also cause the pads to wear unevenly by jamming the pad in the craddle. carefully remove the shims and clean......the pad seating area may require agressive cleaning or a light cleaning(wire wheel,file,etc.)...the end result will have the pad moving freely in the craddle with the shims installed. DO NOT use a inappropiate lubricant on sliders!!!!!!!! I use a silicone based light grease designed for caliper sliders.....a never sieze compound for areas not coming into contact with rubber...and NO lube where none is required(extra lube only attracts and holds dirt) PS: that covered allen head to allow the rear piston to return is one of the slickest designs on the market....but make sure the emerg, brake lever on the caliper is returning fully to its stop.........if it dosent........dont piss around just get yourself a semi loaded rebuild and be done with it.

your putting it back together?? what did you find??

Sorry for not getting back sooner...from your description the problem deff seems to be a case of the crankcase being over pressurized....ie: excessive blowby of the rings or another problem (head gasket) allowing the cylinder compression into the crankcase... 1969912 sais that engine is know for head gasket problems so that sounds like the place to start....once you have the heads off inspect the gaskets ....if there is a obvious passageway from the cylinder to a crankcase opening(pushrod hole) then do a head gasket job and go from there...if there is no obvious signs...the I would suggest going farther and removing the pistons to inspect the rings... And it would not hurt to call a small engine shop familiar with the vanguard and asking about common problems.

hmmm...any noise that happened in the same time frame of before? anything that didnt sound "normal"? any noise that is related to engine...changes with rpm or load?

pfffft.... try hauling a car with bald tires across the parking lot during a snow storm...while the owner is in the waiting area watching a doc on the ice roads in northern Canada......

unless your in the aerospace field..... No But there are other ways around these kind of problems for most people...use the search function on the forums and consult your doctor and specialist.

I would ASSume that you jumped at ASS for your 1st jump ...here we are not allowed to smoke nor eat and drink on the packing matt...a bottle of water may not get anyones attention..however a lit cig near the matt will. Smokers are welcome at our DZ despite our DZO's hatred of smoking...just keep away from the gear!!! As a smoker of 28 years I would never pack with a smoke in my mouth...and as others have said...anyone disrespecting my gear or my friends gear in that mannor would find themselves at the unpopular end of my patiance.... I quit one year ago July 18/06...but would still slit someone's throat for a smoke at times... If thats actually allowed and your not a troll...........then its simple........dont jump there and please let me/us know as to never visit that DZ.

Speak to your Doctor!! have you concidered IAD or static line for your 1st few jumps??? ....lower altitudes can be easier on the ears.... My ears bother me quite alot...lower altitude jumps lessen the problem...I also find that doing several higher jumps in sucession seem to ease the problem to a degree... Speak to your doctor.

did this problem develop rapidly or over time? how many hours (approx) are on the engine? have you had to add oil to the engine?...how much per hour of running? has there been any noticable loss in power or fuel economy? details man details!!! btw..I am not a small engine tech...and I did not stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night........but I am a master mechanic

did you jump in the buff?? congrats...just did mine a few weeks ago