Hooknswoop 19 #51 August 3, 2006 Quotehave you made a video to go along with it???? (fingers crossed) OR, can you recommend a gear maintenance video or DVD? Sorry, I don't know of any gear maintenance video out there. Talk to your rigger about going over your gear with you. Derek Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hooknswoop 19 #52 August 3, 2006 QuoteI know this is accepted wisdom and i do it, but i always wonder, has this actually happened? Would the force put on the ring not break any "set" that might have occurred pretty quickly? SOmeone recently told me this was an urban myth and i'm curious. Just wondering..... If nothing else, in a low-drag situation, 3-rings that haven't been flexed in a long time can be slow to release, or as mr2mk1g mentions, fail to release. It isn't a big safety item, but it can hel nd since you should be cleaning you cables anyway, it doesn't really add much to the work load. Derek Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hooknswoop 19 #53 August 3, 2006 Quote I set my brakes so the line runs on the outside. That makes the excess stow away towards the inside of the riser. When they were set the other way round I once got my hand caught in the excess and it was a bugger to get off, the more you pulled the tighter it got. It needed the other hand to help remove it. Is it a problem as described first above? I don't think it is a problem for most rigs. The concrn is snagging the excess steering line on something and unstowing a toggle and causing severe line twists on opening, etc. With some rigs, it doesn't matter at all since the risers are so well protected, on others the excess line gets out easily which can cause problems. Derek Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jheadley 0 #54 August 3, 2006 QuoteQuoteFlex 3-rings every 30 days to prevent them from taking on a "set" and hanging up during a cutaway. Derek, I know this is accepted wisdom and i do it, but i always wonder, has this actually happened? Would the force put on the ring not break any "set" that might have occurred pretty quickly? SOmeone recently told me this was an urban myth and i'm curious. Just wondering..... In this post by Bill Booth, he explains that webbing stiffness is no longer a problem on modern mini 3 rings. http://www.dropzone.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=1654031;#1654031 He does say in another post that keeping your 3 rings clean and lubricated is still very important. Edit : This is a better post about it http://www.dropzone.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=1652688;#1652688 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hooknswoop 19 #55 August 4, 2006 QuoteIn this post by Bill Booth, he explains that webbing stiffness is no longer a problem on modern mini 3 rings. http://www.dropzone.com/...ost=1654031;#1654031 He does say in another post that keeping your 3 rings clean and lubricated is still very important. Edit : This is a better post about it http://www.dropzone.com/...ost=1652688;#1652688 Try this: Take a rig that hasn't had the 3-rings disconnected for at least 4 months. On the ground, pull the cutaway handle and then pull on a riser and see how much force it takes to release. Then flew/twist the 3-ring part of the riser and re-assemble it. Pull the cutaway handle again and pull on the riser again. I have found thee can be a considerable difference in the amount of force required to release the 3-ring before and after flexing it. It may not be necessary to flex the 3-rings every 30 days, but they will release faster/cleaner, especially with a low-drag mal like a bag lock than if they are not flexed. Also, since you really should clean your cutaway cables every 30 days any, flexing the 3 rings can't hurt and only adds a minute to the process. Derek Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kkeenan 14 #56 August 4, 2006 Excellent post. I'm seeing an increasing number of folks who's only involvement with their gear is wearing it on a jump. Now, the newer jumpers who want to know about gear care have trouble getting complete info even from some of their instructors. What you've laid out is a good, comprehensive plan that will keep people's gear in top shape and, more importantly, encourage them to examine more components and gain more knowledge of the operation / maintenance of it. Mini risers go bad, as you said, at the top of the grommet. The grommet hole on a mini takes out a greater % of the webbing material than the same size hole in a wide riser. Therefore, the opening forces are more concentrated and the first place that shows is the top of the grommet. Infinity makes some great minis at a good price. Is there anything known about the compatibility of Lok-Tite (wet or dry) with parachute materials ?? I'm sure with a reasonable amount of care, you shouldn't get any on the risers or lines, but it's something to watch out for. Again, thanks for educating the newbies as well as the oldies. Kevin_____________________________________ Dude, you are so awesome... Can I be on your ash jump ? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hooknswoop 19 #57 August 4, 2006 QuoteIs there anything known about the compatibility of Lok-Tite (wet or dry) with parachute materials ?? I'm sure with a reasonable amount of care, you shouldn't get any on the risers or lines, but it's something to watch out for. Not that I know of, and I just am careful not to get any on the lines or risers. The latest verrsion of my gear tips: • Use Performance Design's Slinks for the main and reserve canopies instead of Rapide links. Slinks are stronger, lower bulk, easier to install and remove, and won't damage the slider grommets. Either use the slider stops that come with them (mini risers only) or tack the Slinks in place. • Clean cutaway cables every 30 days with Ace Pure Silicone Lubricant, sold at Ace Hardware stores, to keep cutaway pull forces low. Inspect cutaway cables every 30 days and replace nicked, cracked, or kinked cutaway cables with a new cutaway handle/ cables. • Keep a metal hook knife on your rig where it won’t shift around or fall off and can be accessed with one hand. • Flex 3-rings every 30 days to prevent them from taking on a "set" and hanging up during a cutaway. • Inspect Mallion Rapide links (stainless steel not zinc plated) and bumpers or PD Slinks every 30 days. Always use slider bumpers with Rapide links to prevent damage to the slider grommets, "Lock-Tite® thread sealant compound" to keep the link from loosening, and nail polish to torque-stripe Rapide links. • Use metal, capped, and tacked riser inserts for the excess cutaway cables, regardless of main size or type. They prevent difficult or impossible cutaway resulting from the channel "gripping" the cables or from line twists that include the excess cutaway cables. • Replace the main closing loop early and often. Adjust main closing loop so that the closing pin is snug. Use a stainless steel washer thick enough that it won't bend when closing the container. • Have Velcro replaced every 100-200 uses. Keep Velcro mated when not in use. • Use a kill line pilot chute, regardless of the size/type of main canopy you have. Check the length of your main pilot chute kill line every 30 days. The kill line should have a little slack in it when the pilot chute is "cocked" and the bridle is under tension. If it doesn't, have it fixed. • Replace a damaged or old kill line pilot chute with a new one. • "Cock" a kill line PC after laying the cocooned canopy on the ground and just before putting the canopy in the deployment bag. • Take the twists out of steering lines every jump or, at a minimum, after the last jump of the day. • When setting the brakes, set them so that the steering line is to the inside (between the risers) and the excess is to the outside. This will put the excess to the bottom of the riser channels on the container, helping to protect the excess steering line. Do not stow the excess steering line in the loops for the links. • Keep gear out of the sun as much as possible. Store in a cool, dry, secure place. • Use Velcro-less toggles/risers. Velcro damages the steering lines, risers and anything else it comes into contact with and has to be replaced every 100-200 uses. • Replace mini-risers every 500 jumps or less. Inspect them every 30 days for wear. • While packing, check your line trim every 30 days or less. When new, all the "A" lines are the same length (on 'most' canopies, check with the manufacturer). Spectra shrinks from the heat from friction with the slider grommets, pulling the canopy out of trim. Pay special attention to steering/control lines. Replace line sets that are significantly worn or out of trim. • Use the proper size rubber bands, 'Sky Bands', or 'Tube Stows' and do not double wrap them. • Have your rig washed every 500 jumps or so, more if jumping in a sandy environment or near salt-water. • When stowing your lines, don't drag the container to the bag, walk the bag to the container. Derek Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kkeenan 14 #58 August 4, 2006 Quote • Use Performance Design's Slinks for the main and reserve canopies With Slinks on the reserve risers, is there any chance of reserve slider coming down over them and getting involved with the toggles, or do the wide reserve risers prevent that ? I guess the "sliding down" problem is only on mini risers, which are not yet in style for reserves. Kevin_____________________________________ Dude, you are so awesome... Can I be on your ash jump ? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hooknswoop 19 #59 August 4, 2006 QuoteWith Slinks on the reserve risers, is there any chance of reserve slider coming down over them and getting involved with the toggles, or do the wide reserve risers prevent that ? I guess the "sliding down" problem is only on mini risers, which are not yet in style for reserves. Right, reserves have the wide risers, which won't allow the slider to come down to the toggles. Derek Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
riggermick 7 #60 August 4, 2006 QuoteQuoteWith Slinks on the reserve risers, is there any chance of reserve slider coming down over them and getting involved with the toggles, or do the wide reserve risers prevent that ? I guess the "sliding down" problem is only on mini risers, which are not yet in style for reserves. Right, reserves have the wide risers, which won't allow the slider to come down to the toggles. Derek Except if your reserve has # 8 grommets on it's slider, then it can intefere with the toggles. Mick. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MB38 0 #61 August 4, 2006 QuoteExcept if your reserve has # 8 grommets on it's slider, then it can intefere with the toggles. Mick.Which reserve sliders use #8 grommets?I really don't know what I'm talking about. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rwieder 0 #62 August 5, 2006 Hook: Where you been? Can't wait to hook up again, Take Care. Hope all is well with you and Kelli.-Richard- "You're Holding The Rope And I'm Taking The Fall" Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
riggermick 7 #63 August 5, 2006 QuoteQuoteExcept if your reserve has # 8 grommets on it's slider, then it can intefere with the toggles. Mick.Which reserve sliders use #8 grommets? At the very least some older Ravens. Mick. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
