missann1320 0 #1 May 8, 2008 Good Morning!! Whoohoo for it almost being the weekend!! I have a couple of questions to ask of you knowledgeable folks... First, I am considering the Nvertigo-X Freefly Camera Helmet for still camera flying on top. Curious if this is a cool move? I am not interested in video flying at this time just looking for sweet shots to take so I don't need anything super bulky... Oh oh and is there any problem with not having a chinstrap? Next step after I get the helmet is the bracket right? What other elements are good to have (besides a bite switch)? Lastly, for those of you who fly with Nikon camera now... what are you using? I have a D70/ 200/ 300 at my disposal along with a beautiful wide angle. Any thought are more than appreciated!! Thanks a bunch!Smile! http://www.399FirstDates.com Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PharmerPhil 0 #2 May 8, 2008 I have an NvertigoX that I jumped for a long time with stills on top. Worked great. I did rig a Bonehead chin-cup to it (I think Skysystems makes one as well), and I recommend you do something similar. It keeps the helmet from shifting on your head as much. It will make a bite switch more difficult to activate though. I'd recommend a tongue switch or blow switch. Mine has a blow switch, but I had to mount the mechanism externally for it. I always use a sight when flying a camera, and the articulated sight brackets make life in this style of helmet much easier. (You back your head into this type of helmet as opposed to going face first in a flat top style helmet. If you don't have an articulated bracket, it forces you to mount your sight dangerously far in front of your helmet for clearance, making it a bigger hook for line snags.) Make sure you work out and practice a method to jettison the helmet as part of your EPs. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Icon134 0 #3 May 8, 2008 My answer may sound relatively canned... but my first reaction is that you should talk to a local camera flyer at you home dropzone and get their advice. Additionally although I understand your interest in getting sweet still shots I imagine the learning curve for effective still pictures will be lower if you have a little bit of experience with video initially. (but that's just my two cents) As there is less to think about... and I agree with what Phil said as well...Livin' on the Edge... sleeping with my rigger's wife... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davelepka 4 #4 May 8, 2008 QuoteOh oh and is there any problem with not having a chinstrap? Do you mean chincup? I think you do. If you want to top mount a still, you should think about a chincup. Putting the weight up top will give it more leverage to move the helmet around on your head, or maybe off of your head. You can order a chincup kit from several places (Bonehead is one) and install it on your helmet. In terms of shooting stills and not video, it might be easier to start with a video camera. With the video, the camera does all the work, and you can focus on getting the shot (lighting, composition, etc). When you're flying the video and you review your work, you see what things look like during your entire jump. The stills only show you what you take a pic of. You may be flying right past a great shot, but if you don't hit the trigger, you'll never know it was there. The video can help to develop your 'eye' for camera flying much faster than the stills. Once you have the hang of being in the right spot at the right time, you can switch to the still camera, and take on the job of triggering the shutter. As far as the bracket goes, nothing in camera flying is ready right out of the box. Expect your set-up to need tweaks and/or mods to be right for your application. Consult the local video guys for tips on helmet set-up. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jimmytavino 16 #5 May 8, 2008 Nikon is a fine choice... but the D70 doesn't have a port for a wired remote..... the D 70 S does, and i bet the 200 and 300 also have a port to accept the plug - in shutter switch. check with laszloimage. he posts here from time to time and has tongue switches and adapters which are compatible with Nikon... p.s. that Nikon D300. is ALOT of camera... and a sweet one, too... if i may ask...... how is it that you have such equipment "at your disposal" ??? very fortunate... have you used the camera(s) extensively ON the Ground??? it helps greatly, to be familiar with all the features and settings,, before taking it out the door of an aircraft. have fun... be safejmy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PharmerPhil 0 #6 May 8, 2008 Quote. how is it that you have such equipment "at your disposal" ? Check out her web site. I think she has the "features and settings" things worked out on the ground. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
missann1320 0 #7 May 8, 2008 Thanks for the feedback folks... No offense to the Canon flyers... but since I have all the gear for Nikon I'd like to get it in the air. I am a professional photographer on the ground... so I understand the dynamics on cropping, lighting, exposures etc. I just need the extra help/push for a safe set up. I was at Skydive Suffolk this weekend and had a flyer take my camera up.. he hand took the photos as his bite switch didn't plug into my D200 I had on hand :-( If someone knows how to rig up the bite switch to a Nikon properly please please let me know as I would be willing to pay you to do the adjustments (as I have no electronic knowledge). Please let me know if you have the 'know how.' Thanks a bunch!!Smile! http://www.399FirstDates.com Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DSE 5 #8 May 8, 2008 As mentioned previously, contact Laszlo, as he custom-builds switches for Nikons, they're available through the Ranch Pro Shop. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
missann1320 0 #9 May 9, 2008 Indeed!! Thank you -thank you!! We are in contact :-)Smile! http://www.399FirstDates.com Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
