Vectran line (can't hot knife)

[Treejumps 0]

Hi all,

What do you do to treat the cut end of vectran? It can't be hot knifed, but I heard that there is a chemical solution that is used to treat the cut ends to keep them from "fraying" inside of the fingertrap. I'm replacing the control lines on a vx and crossfire and could use a suggestion.

Thanks,

Tree

[SkymonkeyONE 4]

You cut the end at an angle, right?

[Rdutch 0]

I would never hot knife an end of a line that is to be fingertrapped. The hard end will cause wear of the line prematurely. Skymonkey is right you cut it with a very sharp pair of sissors at a sharp angle and that will be all you need to do. Once it is inside the fingertrap it will be fine.

Ray
Small and fast what every girl dreams of!

[Treejumps 0]

Yes, at 45 degrees, but where a fingertrap is rubbed back in forth through the ring it tends to "poke out the sides". This problem is with the factory set. I replaced the lowers on the VX last year and bartacked over the end of the fingertrap and did not have the problem. I had heard that there was somehting to treat the cut end to help prevent this without having to bartack so far from the loop.

Thanks,

Tree

[Hooknswoop 19]

Quote

where a fingertrap is rubbed back in forth through the ring it tends to "poke out the sides".

I've seen this happen, but not very often. If you bar-tack the finger-trap away from the loop, I would probably put a bar-tack next to the loop to prevent the possibility of the loop loosening and coming off the toggle.

Hook

[riggerrob 643]

There are a variety of serging chemicals called Fray Away, Fray Check, Liquid Serger, etc. used for sealing raw edges of fabric. They contain some truly toxic chemicals and are considered toxic waste, so I only use them when ribs fray on early SET 400s. Otherwise I avoid them like the plague.
Aside for asthetics, I do not see the point to worrying about cut ends of Vectran lines.