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flyhy

reline or new canopy???

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Hi.
I've got a Sabre 170 that I bought second hand. It had about 400 jumps and I've done about 50 more on it so far. When packing I realized that my right steering lines are about 5 cm shorter than my left ones (that probably explains why it always dives a bit to the right after opening and why right hand turns are a bit faster than left hand turns...). I got it checked by a PT and he said, they're out of trim and I need a reline sooner or later. But it looked like being alright for a while, didn't have any serious trouble with it. And I only wanted to do another 50-100 jumps on it anyway before downsizing and as it's my first own canopy i don't want to sell it afterwards but keep it, put it on the wall, whatever.
But today I saw that the stitching of my lower brake lines becomes undone! I got them replaced only 50 jumps ago, so it's probably the rigger who fucked it up. Anyway, I don't think it's safe to jump it anymore, but I don't really know what to do with it. Get it relined (and spend lots of money on a canopy that I won't jump that much longer and won't sell it either); or just buy a new (smaller, faster!) canopy right away, without having these planned 50-100 more jumps on my 170.
What do you think??

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Have another rigger look at the canopy. If the rest of the lines are in trim (or within tolerance), then just replace the control lines.

As for the stitching that is coming undone, if you are talking about the stitch securing the fingertrap on the top of the lower control line (where the line is joined to the cat's eye that you put the top of your toggle through to set the brakes) then you definitely need to ground the canopy until it is fixed.

If you are talking about the stitching securing the fingertrapped line that goes through the toggle, that's another matter. If it is properly knotted, that's not a problem. It's backup, and a proper knot at the toggles shouldn't slip. If it's just double-knotted, have a proper knot put on it.

My toggles are only secured with a knot so that I can change the brake settings when I want, the rest is just fingertrapped with no stitching. This has held for the last 150 jumps on my canopy with no slippage at all.

If the dive / turn problem is extreme enough you should also see a built-in turn to the canopy. If it isn't there, then it may be a minor issue.

But, I would still have another rigger take a look at the trim.

As for going to that new, faster canopy, ask yourself why? You are doing the smart thing by gaining experience on this wing. At your number of jumps it is in your best interest to learn all you can about this wing before moving to another. Until you can wring every last bit of performace out of your Sabre (and I've seen some pretty amazing things done with them) don't talk yourself into something you aren't ready for yet.

Kris
"Just another crummy instructor."
Sky, Muff Bro, Rodriguez Bro, and
Bastion of Purity and Innocence!™

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It depends on what your wingloading currently is, what you plan to buy new, and available cash.

I would go for relining the canopy. You may find you love how the canopy flies after the reline and you'll have saved yourself the cost of a new canopy.:)
Either way I wouldn't accept any asymmetry in the lines. Always figure a main canopy has more jumps on it than the seller says. Besides, over the next 50-100 jumps you put on the canopy do you expect the problems to get better or worse? Getting new lines is probably the most cost effective solution.

Ken

"Buttons aren't toys." - Trillian
Ken

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Zero P canopies last a looooong time because of the fabric. You will likely get a lot more jumps out of it, but it is definitely due for a reline.

Don't settle for jumping a canopy that's out of trim. If it were mine, I'd send it to PD for a 100% inspection and reline. You can ask them to do the inspection and then call you first before they continue with the reline to report their opinion on the condition of the canopy itself.

:)

Arrive Safely

John

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Quick fix is to have the control lines re-measured and then adjusted to an equal length. If you look at the lower control line at the toggle there should be a portion of line that is finger trapped and maybe stiched a bit. A rigger should be able to take the toggle off and extend the lower portion of the control line to even out the pair. I would also check to see that both lines are not too short now compared to specifications.

ZP canopies will go for many many many jumps with periodic maintence and new lines. Depending on your size, the added safety that you have with a larger canopy will allow you to learn a whole lot before pressing to a smaller canopy, in other words you can get away with some things on a bigger canopy that will really hurt you on a smaller one. I am not a canopy nazi by any streach of the imagination but do think people in general dont come close to the performance capabilities of canopies before other pressures/desires take over and make them go smaller.

With your Saber I would adjust current control lines length to even them out and look at a new line set in a while depending on the overall trim of the canopy.

Scott C.
"He who Hesitates Shall Inherit the Earth!"

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Hey Kiwi, don't they make the Icarus down in New Zealand? Why don't you put you purse down and get a VX and quit wining about you slow turn. One jump on that and you'll be squeeling like school girl for that slow right turn.As for your parachute being unsafe, that's why you have two. Go big and get a 90.:ph34r:
PS the all blacks sucksB|

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