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OmriMon

which lens?

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Check this out: Diamond .3 wide angle lens - seems to be awesome! If anyone has more info about that thing - please post!
I use a HAMA .45 on a Sony PC 4 and a HAMA digital .5 on a PC 100 and I'm very satisfied with the results. They are lightweighted and not too expensive.
Blues Marcus
--
Perfect speed, my son, is being there. - Jonathan Livingston Seagull

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Lens selection is oing to depend on exactly what you're doing.
What works well for tight freefly isn't going to work very well for stuff that's farther away like 8-way from directly overhead.
I think that new 0.3 from Diamond would be da bomb for headdown flowers, but there's absolutely no way I could use it for shooting competition 4-way.
quade
http://futurecam.com

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Yes, I think the .45 is a very good and adequate choice for many freefall situations especially freeflying and tandem video. The .42 is better for bigways and "macro-close-up", though.
Blues Marcus
--
Perfect speed, my son, is being there. - Jonathan Livingston Seagull

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whats the difference between the 0.42 and 0.45?
most of the camera guys at my dz use 0.42 and it gives this fisheye effect and i don't like it, does the 0.45 have this effect too?
one more thing is that pierltd.com says the 0.42 "May cause vignetting with SONY cameras", is that true?
"The longer you freefly - The longer your beard is":S

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> whats the difference between the 0.42 and 0.45?
The wide angle effect is stronger with the .42 as with the .45. The .45 does not have the fish eye effect. And the vignetting, you don't have any if you zoom the lens in a bit.
Blues Marcus
--
Perfect speed, my son, is being there. - Jonathan Livingston Seagull

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You also have to consider what effect you are looking for... If you are shooting tandems, a .42 allows to to fly close and still get everything, if you pop up to the drouge and look down, the tandem pair and the ground will look MUCH farther away than they really are.... gives a pretty neat effect. I have shot quite a few tandems with a .6 Sony lens and get great results. The problem with vignetting on sonys and the .42 isnt so much the lens... its the adapter ring. Most companies make conversion lenses with 37mm threads... TRV-6/8/10/11/17 and PC cameras... ALL have a 30mm thread, so you have to buy an adapter, the adapter puts about 1/8 to 1/4 of unwanted space between the add-on lens and your camera. This allows the camera to "see" the inner barrel of the new lens. If you spend 90 bucks on a .42, then bump the zoom in a few notches to get rid of the shadow, you are no longer shooting at .42.... The .6 that sony offers gives a wider view (on trv11's/17's) than a .5 and adapter ring. Something to think of.... The 'titanium' .45 macro w/ring do a lot better job of eliminating the 'shadow'. I have used kenko and titanium .42's... they leave a shadow, the .45 doesnt. I am currently using a TRV-30 (which has a 37mm thread) and a .42... since the adapter ring is gone the .42 doesnt vignette on my camera now... the same lens blacked the corners on a PC1 TRV-11 and TRV-17 I used a TRV-9 (37mm front thread) and it also did good with eliminating the shadow when using the .42
If you are not flying close enough to hold hands with whoever you are filming, the subject is going to look VERY far away when using the .3 ... Shooting that close can be trouble if you are filming AFF students (prone to moving around a little at pull time) or tandems (four legs and a trap door effect) If you are shooting RW with a .3 I have a feeling you will need a VERY big wing to get good footage because you are going to spend a lot of time flying in other peoples 'bad air' It might be pretty good for very large formations, but again, the bigger the formation, the bigger the 'burble' you will be flying in.
Generally, I use a .6 for tandems, a .5 for AFF and a .42 for RW..... sometimes I dont even use one for FF because I aint good enough to fly that close yet, and taking the lenses off makes everything look a little closer....
I know a few guys that like using .42 for tandem and a one guy that even uses a .7....
It all depends on what you like and how big your wallet is.
Happy shooting....

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. . . if you pop up to the drouge and look down . . .

[singing]
Highway to the dangerzone . . .
[/singing]
I don't wanna tell you how to do your job, because obviously you've done it for awhile, but I don't think that's the smartest move everyone can make.
I was always told that the drouge is the center of the cone of death and to stay the heck away from it.
quade
http://futurecam.com

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I think he ment pop above the drogue and look down at an angle to show the perspective from the jumpers point of view. I've seen it done a lot at a major DZ and no one ever seemed to be concerned with any danger with it. But... what do I know, I've never filmed a tandem.
I personally use a .5 lens for both freefly and RW jumps.
Cause I don't wanna come back down from this cloud... ~ Bush

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...just so ya'll dont think I am nutz.......

OK. 'Cause I was beginning to.
What I had pictured was this really cool looking shot of the drouge in the foreground, the tandem in the middle and the earth in the background. Cool shot -- stupid as hell.
Quote


12/26/98 Maricopa, AZ
Description: An experienced jumper gave his mother a tandem for Christmas. He filmed it. At pull time he found himself "next to the drogue". He hit the deploying main and became wrapped in it. He worked his way out of the mess but snagged a line with his foot. As he fell clear, the line broke and he hit the Tandem pair. He continued in freefall and deployed his main. He landed safely. The tandem master and possibly the passenger were knocked out. The tandem slowly spun into the ground. The Tandem Master is alive and in the hospital. The passenger (mother) was killed.
Lessons: Colliding with the subject you are filming is a very, very serious error. Everything which occurred after this point is only a consequence of that error.

So the guy ends up killing his mother the day after Christmas.
Yuck.
quade
http://futurecam.com

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