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billvon

Brake line length

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Just a note on brake line length.

Last week I took a larger canopy out of retirement. I didn't want to use my Safire 119 on the 300-way, so I hooked up an old Silhouette 170 and squeezed it into my container. I jumped it and noted that it opened very well (rapidly, on heading, not hard) glided well but did not flare well.

After landing I checked the brake lines and they had some nasty twists in them. This can have the effect of shortening the brake lines. I fixed that and jumped again. It was a bit better, but still not a great flare. The brake lines were barely deflecting the tail, and there was no 'bow' in them.

I then added two inches to the brake lines. There was no slack left in the fingertrap so I had to replace the lower section. That made a big difference. The flare is much more powerful now, and using front risers does not cause bucking. I could easily plane the thing out for 20 feet in no wind with little effort.

Anyway, if you are having trouble with your flare, brake line length is one thing to check. They should not be deflecting the tail at all, and should have at least a little 'bow' in them (the wind should bend them back.) You should be able to pull down at least a little on the toggles without deflecting the tail. Also, keep an eye on brake line twists - they can effectively shorten your brake lines and reduce your flare power.

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Also, keep an eye on brake line twists - they can effectively shorten your brake lines and reduce your flare power



And if only one side is twisted, it can make a "built in turn" which could not only effect your flying, but also can effect your openings.
--"When I die, may I be surrounded by scattered chrome and burning gasoline."

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Also, keep an eye on brake line twists - they can effectively shorten your brake lines and reduce your flare power



And if only one side is twisted, it can make a "built in turn" which could not only effect your flying, but also can effect your openings.



And if you have one line twisted more than the other you can be prone to spinning line twists on even medium loaded canopies.

Chris Schindler

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Geeze Bill, where the heck were you a couple of weeks ago when I was trying to tell people about adjusting their brakelines. (Yeah, you did eventually chime in I guess.)

I was amazed that a few people, some with good a number of jumps, didn't really understand how quickly, simply and inexpensively these types of adjustments could be made.
quade -
The World's Most Boring Skydiver

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Swaping brake lines is a fairly simple task that any rigger can swap out in about 15 minutes. There is a point in lengthening and shortening brakes where is is no longer effective to do so. Adding 6 inches to the break lines will not always increase the flare as much as a 2 inch lengthing will. There is a fine balence between too short and too long. Coupled with riser length and brake adjustments, you can effectivly move the flare point and control range to any where you want on any canopy.

If you don't have slack in the brakes in full flight, let them out.
Yesterday is history
And tomorrow is a mystery

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> Adding 6 inches to the break lines will not always increase the flare
> as much as a 2 inch lengthing will. . . .

And may actually hurt on larger canopies, if it decreases your flare stroke. It's usually a good idea to make changes like this slowly. In addition, I actually lengthened the brake lines by 8 inches, then fingertrapped and knotted the line so it was a total of 2 inches longer. This way I could untie the knot easily and lengthen them another 2 inches if I was off in my estimate.

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You have to cut the lower line off and install a new. There should only be a few reasons that the factory length is not long enough if you let it all the way out. What makes you think that the factory lines are'nt long enough? Unless the canopy is well worn and the breaks have shrank a lot, I can only think of a few reasons to add longer. Other options include swaping risers and relining the canopy.
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Even at max length, the lines have no visible bow in them at all - if I pull the brakes down even 1 - 2 inches it will start a slow turn. The canopy only has about 40 jumps on it so I know it's not the line set.
-----------------------------------
It's like something out of that twilighty show about that zone

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Have you had any one else jump the canopy to examine it and see if they are observing the same thing? I've heard jumpers say some silly things about their canopy but as soon as I jump it I can't find the problem they are talking about (except the non stallable canopy, the brakes had been let out 6 inches).

Also call Pisa to get a line trim chart, they may have just installed short lines by accident.
Yesterday is history
And tomorrow is a mystery

Parachutemanuals.com

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