Plummet 0 #1 November 6, 2002 The friendly brown truck brought me my brandy new, crunchy, slipperier than snot on a glass door knob, canopy today. I am assembling things myself because I won't see my rigger until the weekend (winter rules here in Wisconsin) I have a couple of easy questions until then. 1. Can I use mini links with standard (wide) risers? The risers are a little crowded in the links, but I don't see a problem. 2. Is there an up or a down to links? Does it really matter if the barrel unscrews down or up? 3. Is there a standard length to set the toggles at? For now, I set them at an arbitrary point, at least making sure they are at the same length. 4. Anything else I should be looking at? I did multiple (OK, an excessive amount of) line checks. Inspected every stitch and knot I could think of. I appreciate the help.-Jeff. http://www.iplummet.com Common sense and common courtesy are NOT common. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
johnny1488 1 #2 November 6, 2002 I would have your rigger finger trap and bar tack the brake lines. When I get my canopies i set them up on the risers (I use slinks) and leave the brake lines for the riggers. It only takes him 5 minutes and Im much more comfortable with traped and tacked toggles. As for everything else you should be fine. Watch for riser twists. Johnny Johnny --"This ain't no book club, we're all gonna die!" Mike Rome Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hooknswoop 19 #3 November 6, 2002 Quote1. Can I use mini links with standard (wide) risers? The risers are a little crowded in the links, but I don't see a problem. Sure. Quote 2. Is there an up or a down to links? Does it really matter if the barrel unscrews down or up? /quote] Yes, long end of the link on the riser, barrel nut to the inside. Lock-tite the link and torque-stripe it. Use a paint pen/nail polish, etc. Tighten the link to finger tight+1/4 turn. Do not over-tighten. If you stick w/ rapide links, check them often, if you torque-stripe them, all you have to do is make sure the stripes still line up. Also use slider bumpers. That will help prevent damage to the slider grommets which would pre-maturely wear out the line set. ***3. Is there a standard length to set the toggles at? For now, I set them at an arbitrary point, at least making sure they are at the same length. There should be a mark on the lines for the factorie's recommended starting point to set the toggles. Tie them on for now, making sure you use a knot that won't accidently come un-done. If unsure- have your rigger check them or even tie them for you. When you get the toggles adjusted to wherre you want them, have your rigger finger-trap and sew them. Quote4. Anything else I should be looking at? I did multiple (OK, an excessive amount of) line checks. Inspected every stitch and knot I could think of. Make sure you routed the steering lines though the slider and guide rings on the risers. Double check that your 3-rings are correctly assembled. Look the canopy over for missing stiches on the line set, or missing stitches on the canopy. Check and make sure all the X-ports are in the ribs. Have fun w/ the new toy! Hook Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Plummet 0 #4 November 7, 2002 *** There should be a mark on the lines for the factorie's recommended starting point to set the toggles. *** OK, I found the mark on the new steering lines. Specifically, what should be at that mark? Is that the point where the steering line enters the toggle grommet? I plan to check the placement of the toggles in flight and then have them fingertrapped and tacked. But I'm looking for a good starting point.-Jeff. http://www.iplummet.com Common sense and common courtesy are NOT common. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hooknswoop 19 #5 November 7, 2002 the mark either indicates where the temp knot should be or the bend to make the loop for the toggle. Contact the manufacturer for specifics. Hook Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
