Which method produces more speed for the swoop??

[Tonto 1]

"The Snap hook 180 into double fronts? "

But you never said anything about risers either...
What are you loading your canopy at, what surface elevation is your dz and is it hot or cold right now?

t

It's the year of the Pig.

[PhillyKev 0]

Quote

It all depends on why you're hooking. Do you want the swoop? or do you want the sensation of the snap? What you're looking for should define the style you use, because not all hooking is the same!

Out of curiousity, if you're only looking for "the sensation of the snap" what's the point of doing it low to the ground?

[rhino 0]

lol

Loading is 1.95 at 400 feet above sea level...

[grega 0]

Most of you said that carving gives you more speed in time and longer swoops while snappy hook turn gives you more speed at the beginning but the speed bleeds of faster than at carve. if i understood that corectly.

What i want to know is what kind of hooks do these guys do (team extreme). http://www.aerialfusion.com/Video8.html
is this a snapy hook turn or a carve. it seems to me like it's something in between, but more on the side of snappy turn...

"George just lucky i guess!"

[SkymonkeyONE 4]

270 carving riser dive with harness input from about 700 feet.

[grega 0]

so this is a carve after all.

then i guess snappy hook turns are the ones that really are snappy. silly me

I have another question about front riser input.
i'm currently flying atair impulse (alpha) 135 loaded 1.55. and i tried, doing 180, 270, 360 with front riser input, up high of course. And if i want to put the canopy in a dive like they do (canopy is on or near the horizon, from his point of view), i have to pull one of front risers quite far, about 20 inches. but i read and i know that it's not good to pull on risers so much, because you distort the airfoil too much, and could collapse the canopy in extreme cases.
so is it ok to pull for about 20 inches, or does that mean that you just can't afford such dives with wingloading 1.55?
On the same canopy size 120 loading 1.7 i had to pull riser only about 16 inches to do the same. so the higher the wing loading less you have to pull for a dive like that and less you distort the airfoil. which is better. i understand that.
But is it healthy to pull so much (20") on wing loading 1.55, or just wait when i'll be ready for higher wing loading and do carved dives like that then.
Btw i won't do that (180 or 270) near ground for many, many jumps, so no need to warning me, because of my fairly low jump numbers.

"George just lucky i guess!"

[SkymonkeyONE 4]

A snap riser-dive throws you out from under the canopy the same as toggle whipping. As to the distance you need to pull down on a riser to get a steep, controllable dive, that varies from canopy to canopy. I have had two supposedly identical mains from two different sets of builders that all flew differently. That being said, when I was jumping Atair canopies I found that I was pulling the riser all theway to my chest to get the best dive under my 74,75, and 85. The 65 I was jumping requried very little input to achieve the same result.

Chuck

[listo 0]

I have found that there is a huge gap in the description of what exactly a carving turn is.

Honestly, there are two viable and accurate descriptions.

FIRST there is a flat carving turn.

SECOND there is a diving carve.

I have found personally that the diving carve allows you to enter the hook at a much higher altitude. By adding harness input, I can maintain my rate of turn based off of the altitude that I have allowed for myself. The added altitude is where you can build up the energy needed to power through the plane out phase of the swoop.

It is entirely possible to dive vertically without having to wrench the canopies heading in an extreme radical manuever.

If anything, a snap hook seems to me to really kill any distance. Where as the high, long, smooth carve from heaven seems to deliver the most devine elements of speed and distance.

peace out!

Listo