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mountainman

checking brake line lengths...

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Hey there.

I was reading Parachutist and they were talking about a canopy coaching seminar in Oregon where a lot of people found out that their canopy needed the brake lines' lengths changed.

Here is my question: how can you check for that? Is it something you get out a tape meaure for? Can I check it while flying the canopy? Should I get someone who is experienced to fly it?

I hear this is a great way to get the most out of your canopy. What do you think?

Thank you.

:)
http://www.brandonandlaura.com

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Brandon, this is something that varies from person to person and canopy to canopy. The bottom line here is that your canopy should not buck at all when you are in front risers and still have your toggles in your hands. If you don't riser-dive, then this is only critical if your tail is distorted in full glide. This is all covered extensively in the swoop forum.

SM-1

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unstow your brakes and put your toggles all the way up. while watching your tail slowly pull your toggles down, as soon as your tail begins to lip under look at how far below your keeper rings your toggles are. this is the begining of your control stroke. you can continue to flare to determine the proper end of your control stroke.

you can change the placement of your control stroke to suit your arm length and flying style (adding or shortening your brake lines below the catseye). factory settings can be as short as 4" below your keepers for the start of a control stroke. if your flying style consists of front riser manuevers you should make sure you are not significantly deflecting your tail via the brake lines.

the full range of the control stroke will vary depending on the canopy design. some are very short i.e. 12" and others much 'deeper'.

hope that helps...

sincerely,

dan<><>
www.extremefly.com
Daniel Preston <><>
atairaerodynamics.com (sport)
atairaerospace.com (military)

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Thanks a lot, guys!

Since I am starting to use the front risers on my landings to get a little speed built up for a better flare (I have a Safire), I thought this is an issue I may want to start looking into.

Thanks again.

Oh yeah....so are you saying there is no real "right or wrong" for where they should be? It is just a personal preference unless it is buffeting?

Thanks again.
http://www.brandonandlaura.com

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Since I am starting to use the front risers on my landings to get a little speed built up for a better flare (I have a Safire),



Building up speed will give you a longer surf, how much longer depends on how efficiently you fly the canopy. But, as you surf, the speed bleeds of until you reach a threshold the same as if you had done a straight in approach, so the flare is not really changed by the added speed.....just the surf. Well, unless you flare to early while you still have too much speed, then you will find yourself popping up. The trick to a Safire is to be patient, it will surf longer than most people realize, so don't put your feet down too early. Then finish the flare with a deep stroke, deeper than you would expect, especially if you have been accustomed to PD canopies such as the Sabre.
alan

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Thanks for the input Alan. I have never flown a PD, but from what I hear, they have much more "flare power" compared to the Safire. I have not had much trouble with mine, but I do notice that the flare doesn't seem to be all there.

I was hoping it was due to something that wasn't correct. Thanks again!!

:)
http://www.brandonandlaura.com

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I have not had much trouble with mine, but I do notice that the flare doesn't seem to be all there.



I used to think this was true until I really learned how to fly my Safire. Once you find the sweet spot on that canopy you'll realize that it's got just as much 'flare power' as it's competition. I actually prefer the flare on my Safire to the flare on a Sabre or Sabre2, but that's just me.

-
Jim
"Like" - The modern day comma
Good bye, my friends. You are missed.

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The length of the steering lines can drastically affect how a canopy flies. High performance canopies are affected much more than lower performance canopies. All canopies should have some slack or a slight bow in the steering lines. If the steering lines are too short and pull down the tail of the canopy during full flight, even slightly, the canopy is flying in brakes. If the canopy is flying in brakes, it will not have as much speed to trade for lift during the landing flare. Over time the steering lines shrink as a result of friction from the slider during opening, as much as 6 inches in extreme cases. New canopies or line sets adjusted to have no slack in the steering lines will begin to fly in brakes as the control lines shrink.

To maximize the performance of your canopy it is necessary to understand the construction of the steering lines. The steering lines on a canopy are made of several parts. The upper control lines, usually four or five lines cascade or split at the top of the central control line and attach to the tail. The central control line attaches the upper control lines to the lower control line. The lower control line attaches from the finger-trapped loop (for setting the brakes) at the bottom of the central control line to the toggle. The lower control line is where your rigger can make adjustments.

If you do not use your front risers, adjusting steering line length is a fairly simple process. To check your control lines, pull one toggle down an inch or two while watching the tail of the canopy in flight. The tail should not move and the canopy should not turn. If it does, your lower steering lines need to be lengthened. Make small adjustments, no more than an inch at a time. This may require several adjustments. It is better to be an inch too long than an inch too short. Once you find the correct length, have your rigger finger-trap and bar-tack the lower steering line to eliminate the knot next to the toggle which can hang up on the guide ring. Periodically check the steering lines to see if they have shrunk and need to be lengthened again. Micro-line can shrink 4 to 6 inches or more over its life span. Vectran tends not to shrink with wear but is not as durable as Micro-line.

If you use your front risers, adjusting steering line length is more complicated. Having enough slack in the lower steering lines on a high performance canopy is more critical to how the canopy will fly. In a front riser turn you are pulling the toggle down a little with the riser and there has to be some slack to prevent pulling down the tail. If the tail of a high performance canopy is pulled down even a little when front risering, the riser pressure will be much higher and the recovery arc (the amount of altitude required to get back under the canopy) will be shortened. To check if the steering line is long enough, clear your airspace, do a full 360 degree front riser turn (keeping the toggles in your hands), and watch the tail of the canopy. As the speed increases, the drag on the control line increases and if there isn’t enough slack, the tail will be pulled down. You need enough slack so that the tail won’t be pulled down while pulling the toggle and the riser down at the maximum speed of the canopy. Again, make small adjustments no more than an inch at a time and have your rigger finger-trap and bar-tack the lower control line once you have them adjusted correctly.

With the steering lines correctly set, your canopy will dive longer and faster and you can get the most out of your canopy.

Hook

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Nice post Derek.. Thanks...
Another question along those lines, how could you tell if your brake lines are too long? Should the tail start to move after the two inches or so? What problems could be experienced if the brakes are too long?
I promise not to TP Davis under canopy.. I promise not to TP Davis under canopy.. eat sushi, get smoochieTTK#1

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Another question along those lines, how could you tell if your brake lines are too long? Should the tail start to move after the two inches or so? What problems could be experienced if the brakes are too long?



The limiting factor on lengething brake lines is being able to completely flare the canopy. As long as you can completely flare the canopy by pulling the toggles all the way down (or less), your steering lines aren't too long.

If you don't tend to use your front risers, 2 inches of slack in the steering lines (you have to pull the toggle down 2 inches before the tail begins to move) is plenty. If you use your front risers you will probably need more than 2 inches of slack. Remember, make small adjustments until your happy and Spectra shrinks w/ heat from the friction of the slider and the guide ring on the back of the riser for the steering line. So you will have to adjust (lengthen) your steering lines over time to keep them set properly if your canopy has Spectra steering lines.

Hook

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